For those of you with aft-enclosures . . .

We didn't get the aft-enclosure with our tug, thinking that when the weather is coolish, we'll be in the cabin, which is ample. And the bimini would give sufficient protection in the cockpit for docking, etc.. Now that we have had our first few month's with our boat, we plan to go into or even through the off season (including the Portland Christmas ships parade!). So an aft-enclosure is now in the cards.

After conferring with Andrew, it looks like the best option for us will be to talk to a local canvas maker first. (As always, given the great support from the factory, they will work with us if a local canvas person doesn't work out). Andrew has sent me some photos of the aft-enclosure on a 29, so I have those to show to someone.

Meanwhile, though, I thought I'd ask: for those of you with the enclosure who have lived with it for awhile, what do you like best, and what might you change if you could? The basic design will probably be straightforward for any experienced canvas maker. But as long as we have options, we might as well explore them. How better to start than with the collective experience available through this forum!

And if anyone has photos in their album that would give us more ideas, or wants to add some, let us know.

Thanks all.

Gini & Colleen

A couple of thoughts after nearly 3 years with the full enclosure from the factory. At the side entrances make sure that they have a stationary strip that snaps to the cabin structure and zips to the panel for entrance. If you have to unsnap the entrance from the cabin, it is awkward. You should be able to just unzip the entrance panel and leave the narrow strip attached with its snaps. Also be sure that the bimini top has enough material to overlap the side panels. It maybe too late for this, as the zippers for the side panels are already in place. We have some rain leakage because the top does not completely cover the side panels. This would be an easy design improvement, but hard to retrofit. Also here in the PNW, we do not need screen panels. Mine were furnished with screens with Eisenglass inserts that unzipped and rolled up. The Eisenglass is too stiff to roll up and the panels leak at the seams. So we get a lot of water in the cockpit during rains.

You should have our boat card with our numbers if you would like to call us to discuss this further. If not pm me and I will give it to you.

Some things to consider, and BTW, I do not have the cockpit enclosure although I've thought much about having one.

1. When not in use you will need to figure out where to store it as it's bulky at best.
2. When getting ready to depart or dock make sure you can get the fenders out easily through side flaps or some sort of thing.
3. Do you need netting as well as the clear plastic ?
4. If you have a dinghy on swim step make sure they standoffs are accommodated.
5. If you have an outboard attached to rear railing think about how the enclosure will fit around that.
6. If you want fast exit make sure the enclosure does inhibit you in any 'real' way.
7. If you have big dogs make sure they behave and don't claw at the enclosure material.
8. Be careful when using BBQ with enclosure up.
9. Examine/discuss how the enclosure is fastened to the boat, such as clips, press buttons and ties.
10. Research quality of the plastic for UV protection.
11. Research cost.

I think Herb and Willie are about the best advisors concerning the cockpit enclosure. An option for a manufacturer is King Canvas in Seattle, they are truly great and the original suppliers for Ranger Tugs. King Canvas also supports our mini-cruise to Fisherman's Terminal in Seattle with very generous coupons for our drawing. Their last contribution coupon was for $300.00.

Bob

We had Four Winds Canvas Works in Astoria, Or. do ours and we are happy with it so far. They did it the way Herb described with a stationary strip attached to the cabin. They should have the pattern they made for our 27, give Kurt or Susan a call at 503.325.9848.

Herb, great advice about the stationary strip attached to the cabin. Thanks.

Barry, several good points about things to consider -- especially the idea of being able to quickly deploy and retrieve fenders.

Bob, right you are -- King Canvas would be great. But from what Andrew said, anyone making the canvas enclosure will need to fit it to the current bimini to make sure the zippers and other parts all mate up correctly. Which is why Andrew recommends someone locally. We don't have a good way to get the boat up to Seattle for either the factory or King Canvas to fit the aft-enclosure.

Russ and Toni in Chinook, thanks for passing on the info about the Astoria canvas shop. We will hang onto their info and likely contact them -- Astoria isn't exactly local, but if it isn't all that far, either. Because they would be already have a pattern to start with, it could be a net savings, even with the trip or two to Portland that would be required.

Thanks all!

Gini & Colleen

One thing I will add, if you are going to have an enclosure made, I strongly suggest getting it done local to you. This will allow you to completely customize the enclosure the way you want it just as Herb says and allow for them to tweak anything that doesn't fit right. I will say that you cannot run the vessel with the enclosure on and all of the panels down or you will starve the engine for air so make sure some of the panels can roll up individually. This is why I like the screens.

Andrew, another great tip. I hadn't considered air intake at all for the engine. Having one or more panels rolled up to address that makes sense. Just out of curiosity, where are the openings that give the engine it's fresh air? Never thought about that . . . Thanks Andrew!

Gini

The engine gets its air from inside the cockpit. If you reach your hand up above the cockpit speakers, you will feel the gap between the liner and the hull.

I'll check it out, Andrew. Thanks!

Gini

One suggestion I have is try to have all panels so you can roll them up I place. All my entry points do but the others don't Makes it easy for the days gets hot then cools later would save storing them.

Wolf Pack has full enclosure as delivered from the Ranger factory.

Our port and starboard side panels are such that they can be rolled up in place without removal for stowage. Same with the transom door panel. All other panels remain in place full time, except we remove the port rear corner panel when we want to use the BBQ.

We also have the Ranger Tug 9.5 dinghy on davits with standoffs at the rear, and was installed by the factory (Kenny did a terrific job when our dinghy was delivered). There are no issues with the canvas stern enclosure panels interfering with the standoffs, stanoff stowage nor the winch rope to retrieve the dinghy.

Wolf Pack typically runs with the transom door section rolled up (to facilitate the dock linesman's job) and the port and starboard panels are also typically rolled up when underway. In very cold weather we have been known to roll those side panels down while underway. Wolf Pack has never had any issues with air feeding to the engine.

Our bimini enclosure was installed by the factory when Wolf Pack was built. All service and maintenance on the bimini since Wolf Pack was delivered has been at the hands of King Marine (pointed out above by Margarita Bob) which also has an office in Kent, WA.

Hope this info helps.
Gene R
Wolf Pack

We have our aft enclosure such that it can be rolled up or down depending upon conditions. It takes less than 5 minutes to fully drop all sides and snap into place. All entry points also have roll up canvas but when this photo was taken they were off for a little cleaning. The side panels also have flaps at aft tie down points for lines to pass through. In addition, the aft panel has a opening for flag to mounted which can be seen n the photo with canvas in down position.

We're in the process of having our enclosure modified to work like Just Dreamin'. We're having straps made for the bimini so that the side and rear panels can roll up and be left in place rather than removed and a cut out in the aft panel to allow the flag pole to be inserted when the enclosure is put up.

On our R-25 there are air intakes in the outside of the cockpit just aft of the side steps. We run the boat in cool weather and rain with the enclosure up and all panels buttoned up and have had no issues with air for the engine. Wefings arranged our enclosure to be made when we bought the boat.

Click the photo for a larger view.



Here's a closeup of the air intakes. Again, click the photo for a larger view.

Wow -- I foresaw some of the design issues and options mentioned, but not as many as you all have come up with. Very helpful! A special thanks for the photos. A picture is worth many words, and they will help talk over things with a few local canvas makers. Thanks everyone.

Gini

Andrew Custis":p7upaet1 said:

The engine gets its air from inside the cockpit. If you reach your hand up above the cockpit speakers, you will feel the gap between the liner and the hull.

Click to expand...

Andrew, on our R-25 there are SS vents on hull side on starboard and port sides of cockpit. It was my understanding that fresh air can enter the cockpit and the storage areas to feed the engine's thirst for air. If not, what are those vents for ? Maybe they extract air rather than inject air... dunno for sure.

We have a R21-EC so the construction will be a little different.
1. I recommend having a bag made for storage. It will protect the canvas and eisenglass when not in use and makes it easy to haul aft when needed.
2. I wish we had mosquito netting made with the panels.
3. On our panels they installed bungee cord along the bottom that wraps around posts under the gunnel. This allows the bottom of the panels to be secured with out using snaps. Works real good. With the bungee cords you can secure the bottom from the inside of the cockpit - not the outside. You will want the bottom secured while underway.
4. Try to stay away from snaps. Snaps will corrode after a while and will be a pain in the posterior. Likewise, have them use heavy duty plastic zippers - not metal.
5. Have the rear/stern panels easy to remove. Often after the rain stops we will raise the rear panels for fresh air, but leave the side panels up in case it rains again.
6. Our panels were made to be installed from the forward most panel to the rear most panel. Make sure when you remove the panels for storage, you do so in reverse order so they will be easy to install the next time.
7. Try to get recommendations from others in your local area. Not all canvas makers are the same.

Funny, when I asked the wife what she wanted on our new boat, the first thing she said was a camper package. She remembered all the times we were caught out in the weather without one.

Enjoy your new canvas.

Rick, that's a great list. Thanks. In terms of finding a good canvas maker, we are kind of lucky. We are friends with the local go-to surveyor who knows everyone and everything about who does anything in this area. Our friend has already tipped us off to the canvas makers to avoid, and the ones that come recommended. That's a nice head start.

Again, thanks for the list.

Gini

As I am sitting in the cockpit I notice there is canvas on the bottom 6 inches below the clear plastic.. When sitting as I do semi reclined I have my vision blocked by the lower strip of canvas.. I can not see why the clear plastic could not go almost to the bottom with small canvas allowance for the domes . Also our canvas is zippered up into the top canvas at the side steps so you do not have to duck to get into the boat when the top is on . I think the whole back inclosure was custom on this boat. Hope this helps
Mark