Port Trim Tab stuck

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Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby NautiTug on Sun Mar 03, 2019 9:24 pm

2017 Cutwater 28...boat is on the hard for the winter. Last week I moved the trim tabs to the down position. This weekend i went to retract them and port side wont retract but i hear it running. Thought?
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2017 Cutwater 28
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby knotflying on Mon Mar 04, 2019 8:16 am

Is it a Bennett tab? It could be the hydraulic solenoid. Bennett is very helpful and they even have troubleshooting videos on line.
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby NautiTug on Mon Mar 04, 2019 12:01 pm

Thanks yes it is. And yes I just found their videos which look helpful.

Does anyone have any pictures of video of how to remove the transom seat to access?
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2017 Cutwater 28
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby BB marine on Mon Mar 04, 2019 1:04 pm

I don't have a video but I can describe it. First remove the back cushion ( it is not attached just fits tightly into the fiberglass seat Mold. Then remove the 3/8 bolts that the seat swings on. 9/16 socket. Once these two bolts are removed the seat comes off. Square head driver remove the starboard hinged cover. Square head driver remove the 4 screws holding the plastic storage box. pull it out and you can access rudder to grease, hydraulic steering cylinder, the dreaded stern thruster motor and the Bennet trim pump and reservoir.

Image
Your C28 will not have the waste tank in this area and the inverter located here. But everything else will be the same.

Image
Brian Brown
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby NautiTug on Mon Mar 04, 2019 1:33 pm

Thanks Brian. I have had it on my to do list to grease the rudder. Any pictures of the spot to inject the grease (sorry I am a visual learner!) Also any other areas to grease or check when I have that area open?
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2017 Cutwater 28
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby BB marine on Mon Mar 04, 2019 2:05 pm

You can't miss the Zerk on the rudder post. I yearly drop a few drops of oil on the steering linkage and inspect the terminal connections on the thruster, check trim tab fluid level.I give the area a close look for leaks and corrosion. I have a old teleflex throttle cable casing I use to make sure the limber holes are not plugged, inspect the cockpit drain hoses check clamps for tightness and close it back up.
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Cutwater 26
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby NautiTug on Mon Mar 11, 2019 10:04 am

Thanks all! It appears low fluid was the problem. Need to do a better job next time not making a mess pouring it in though!
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2017 Cutwater 28
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby ixlr8 on Mon Mar 11, 2019 1:15 pm

NautiTug wrote:Thanks all! It appears low fluid was the problem. Need to do a better job next time not making a mess pouring it in though!

Now the $64 question is, why was it low??
Jim
2018 RT-27 OB Claret Red "Maggie"
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby NautiTug on Mon Mar 11, 2019 2:06 pm

Good question. Not sure how it works. Saw no leaks. Does it get used up as you use tabs and hatch overtime?
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby BradOwens on Mon Mar 11, 2019 2:45 pm

It shouldn't get used up. Maybe there's a leak somewhere in the system that's too small to notice.
Brad Owens

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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby BB marine on Mon Mar 11, 2019 8:26 pm

I have a question on your original problem. The cylinders were all the way extended in the down position and the port would not retract. Starboard was retracted but port was still extended. When you checked the fluid level what position was the port cylinder ? (extended or retracted). If the port side was extended Down position your oil level would be low . When checking the reservoir both cylinders must be fully retracted. There is only oil on one side of the cylinder. When you trim down the cylinder is filled with oil dropping the level in the reservoir. When you retract the cylinder the reservoir fills back up. With both cylinders in the fully retracted position the fluid level should be no higher then an inch from the top or if it has a fill line even with the fill line. I'm commenting on this because usually a low oil in the reservoir will not allow the cylinders to go in the down position but will retract ok.
Brian Brown
Cutwater 26
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby NautiTug on Tue Mar 12, 2019 7:15 am

Thanks Brad and Brain. Both good points. The only that i noticed a few weeks ago when it was originally stuck was it occurred right after i also raised the hatch and the hatched struggled for the first time to raise.

I will monitor and report back any observations. thanks!!
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2017 Cutwater 28
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NautiTug
 
Posts: 123
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby NautiTug on Tue Mar 12, 2019 11:26 am

Also just posted another picture in my album... I am surprised how rusted the what i believe is the hatch solenoid valve is. I have also zipped tied the wiring harness up higher to prevent any contact with standing water that may find its way back in that section.

I know this has been up before but does this water naturally drain to the bilge? I used a shop vac to get standing water out before wintering for the season.
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2017 Cutwater 28
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Red Bank, NJ
NautiTug
 
Posts: 123
Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2016 1:24 pm
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Ranger/Cutwater Model: C-28
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby knotflying on Wed Mar 13, 2019 6:48 am

I seem to remember that when the hatch is open the fluid in the reservoir gets low and the tabs tend to malfunction.
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Re: Port Trim Tab stuck

Postby BB marine on Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:46 am

knotflying wrote:I seem to remember that when the hatch is open the fluid in the reservoir gets low and the tabs tend to malfunction.




This would be correct. The hatch cylinder will retain a considerable amount of the reservoirs oil capacity. When the engine hatch is open the reservoirs fluid level is low and the trim tab cylinders may not be able to extend to full travel. This also works opposite. If you have your Tabs fully extended and open your engine hatch you may experience erratic operation has it tries to open fully. The design thought is when cruising with trim tabs down you are not running with your engine hatch open. Also when checking the engine or working on it there isn't a need to have the trim tabs extended. There are exceptions.

Has far as the water and moisture in the aft section of the boat.

The first year I owned my C26 I had water sitting in the bilge on port and starboard side of the prop tunnel in the area you are questioning. The water would be 2" to 3" deep if we had a heavy rain. I would see a small amount of water draining in the engine compartment from the Limber holes ( drain tubes that drain water to the engine compartment where bilge pumps are). I have a full enclosure so there isn't that much rain water getting in the cockpit but water was still getting in and settling in the stern area. Problems I found. 1) limber holes were partially plugged with a mixture of foam ,fiberglass and dirt from the building of the boat. 2) The deck drains were not flowing properly because of improper drain fall to the transom thru hulls. 3) The hose on the starboard side transom thru hull was split right at the thru hull barb fitting. When water would make its way to the fitting it would leak into the bilge instead of over board.4) The boat had a list to the port. When water would drain off the deck into the trough of the starboard aft deck hatch it would over flow the trough and drain into the compartment. The trough drain is located outside aft corner and water would flow to opposite side because of the list.5) Aft seat, hinged board along with the fiberglass storage insert were not sealed. water would leak in around it and drain into the aft area of the boat. By the looks of your trim pump you may have one or more of these issues with your boat.

The changes I made to help reduce these issues were.
1) cleaned limber holes and yearly check them.
2) I rerouted the deck drain hoses to maintain a continual fall from fwd to aft.
3) repaired drain hose and installed a 90 degree fitting instead of the tight bend that caused the hose to split and properly installed the hose clamps on the barb fitting that also caused the hose to split.
4) Moved three batteries to starboard side storage compartment. The boat now floats level while at rest at the dock.
5) Resealed all the deck hatches with a thicker rubber weather stripping. The factory deck seals were to thin.
6) sealed the starboard hinged board and fiberglass storage insert with weather stripping. It stays sealed when assembled but the components can be removed for inspection in the aft area without the need for resealing each time.

These items helped. It is a boat so there is going to be water intrusion. Keeping it a minimum will help with longevity of the boat and its components.
Brian Brown
Cutwater 26
PORT-A-GEE
portageelooper.blogspot.com
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BB marine
 
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