Replace teak & holly on underside of cockpit "porch"?

In a thread from last year http://www.tugnuts.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7995, folks discussed the issues with the teak and holly on the underside of the "porch" like cover over the back of the cockpit on some of our models. Mine is doing what others have described. It has "weathered" badly despite the fact that it is sheltered from the elements just about all the time. I have mildew spots, and the finish generally looks pretty shabby.

Sounds like at least a few people have replaced theirs with solid teak and holly panels, rather than veneers. For anyone who has done that, can you provide more info? What was involved in removing the panel that is there? I made an initial start on that, but mine seems to be "glued" in (caulk? liquid nails?). I may have to tear it out to get it out. Which isn't a problem if I'm going to replace it. But that leads me to my second question.

What have folks used for the replacement material? Anything other than solid teak and holly? If solid teak and holly, what thickness were you able to use and where did you find it. I'm not optimistic than my local lumber yards will have anything even close. Are there any mail or internet suppliers than anyone knows of?

Thanks for any experience and suggestions you can share. This may be a project for spring, but I look forward to having that panel look a lot better than it does now. (On the other hand, I think I may be the only one who notices!).

- Gini

The recent ActiveCaptain news Email gave this...

LONMARINE Wood - Interior & Semi-Exterior

Example -> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276179|2276198|2276201&id=3325503

N.B. Applications: Interior and Protected Exterior (Semi Exterior)

This product is ideal for interior applications; however, when used for exterior applications it should be installed in a protected / shaded area onboard a boat, and if exposed to full sun the flooring should be covered when not in use. The material is not guaranteed against fading and/or color change with sustained, direct UV exposure.

Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Flooring - Teak & Holly: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Flooring - Maple & Teak: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Flooring - Mahogany & Holly: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Flooring - Teak & Ebony: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Flooring - Walnut & Holly: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Flooring - Solid Mahogany: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal IMO Lonmarine Wood Flooring - Solid Teak: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal Lonwood G Marine Flooring - High Gloss Teak & Holly: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)
Lonseal Lonwood TS Marine Flooring - Teak & Holly: $39.99
(Regularly: $31.99)

An easier option would be to remove the existing material. Clean up the fiberglass underneath it and paint it with a top side primer and paint. If the fiberglass is rough or has voids you could use an auto body filler to make it smooth, just make sure the filler is easy to sand.

Brian, I wondered about something along the lines of your suggestion. I'd have to figure out something for the light in the center -- it would need something to give it a finished off look. A worthwhile thought. Thanks. Baz, I wondered about the Lonmarine "wood" that defender had the special on. I glanced at it when the promotion was emailed out. Might be an option too. Thanks for the reminder about it.

Still wondering if anyone can say what was involved in getting the old panel off. And in light of Brian's suggestion, what I will find underneath it. If you've had that experience, please chime in!

Gini

Are you sure you can't just sand and refinish? That is what I did. Instead of putting on a hard finish, after sanding with my palm sander I just used teak oil. It has held up well. I think the hard finish peels and molds due to trapped moisture collects under there. The teak oil allows it to breathe a bit dry out and hold up better.

I had a different experience with teak oil. I sanded and re-oiled mine in late July. Looked good for a while, but starting to get the mildew stains again. Disappointed with the lack of longevity.

How about something like this? http://www.seadek.com/

I finally pulled the teak/holly paneling down yesterday. The silicone around the edges was coming loose and had mildew. The wood was delaminating on one corner and the finish was looking bad. I complained to the dealer I bought my NEW 2016 Cutwater 28 from in Aug 2016 and he said he would look into it. I talked with a factory rep when I had the boat in Anacortes this summer and he was going to try to get me a replacement. Also, I was told the wood had several coats of finish on the top and finished side to protect it. It has no finish on back side and apparently had very little finish on the teal/holly side.

Has anybody replaced the wood with 1/4" King Starboard? I would like to replace this panel only once.

Good morning,
Yep we had the same problen with the underside, after carful examination we desided to replace ours with white starboard that can be purchased at home depo or west marine.
For photo's of the install please view the photo's on our photo album hear on tug-nuts.
Good luck,
Mike
M/V Elan
Cutwater 26 2012
yanmar 4YB 180 HP

Looks good. Thanks for the info. Did you use arctic white or white white? Personally, I never liked the teak/holly flooring on the overhang. I do like the vinyl with cherry wood strips on the cabin overhead.

I still have not resolved the underside of the porch roof issue, waiting for more ideas. Perhaps Elan has found the solution I am seeking.

My upholstery on Cascadia, (2013 Ranger 29) is also needing replacement. I am hoping to find a match for the two front seats that will work with the other seat.

The largest expense this year was replacing the original batteries, and I stepped up to heavier, higher quality batteries.

I just replaced the teak and holly on my 2016 Cutwater 28 with 1/4" King Starboard (Arctic White).
I ordered 2 pieces so it could be shipped UPS. We used starboard blocks to lower the forward edge about 1 1/2" so the exposed joint at each end (which was filled with silicone/rubber or what ever was used) was covered. The aft end was lowered about 3/8". I do not plan to use any silicone around the edges to eliminate molding and to allow any water that might enter to run out.
I have a few photos in my albums.

Here is an interesting thought. Gansett Ranger has photos on his album of U-dek he and I installed on our swim platforms and cockpits. This stuf would work just as well on the overhead. Hey if it withstands floor traffic and just about everything else, why not a ceiling?

knotflying":15bz5mkx said:

Here is an interesting thought. Gansett Ranger has photos on his album of U-dek he and I installed on our swim platforms and cockpits. This stuf would work just as well on the overhead. Hey if it withstands floor traffic and just about everything else, why not a ceiling?

Click to expand...

That's a great idea. I sense another project coming our way. My overhead is painted and never did like the look of it.

The more I thought about Knotflying's idea the more I liked it. I took a pic of the overhang of my 25SC and sent it to Matthew at U-Dek to see it was feasible. His reply was positive although installation may be tricky. You can get Matthew's contact info on my previous post viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9940&p=68639&hilit=u+dek#p68639
If you were to proceed with the project contact Knotflying or myself for some installation tips, we have done 2 boats now and are just about professionals.(emphasis on just about 😀 )
The first time I saw that teak and holly wood being used in that location I thought it would be a future problem.

Brian, have you pursued the U-Dek possibility for your boat? If so, I'd love some details. I've haven't pursued this project on my boat yet, but I'm hoping to get back to it soon. The U-Dek option is one I'd like to explore.

Thanks for any further info you can provide.

Gini

Gin":ln5sk6k8 said:

Brian, have you pursued the U-Dek possibility for your boat? If so, I'd love some details. I've haven't pursued this project on my boat yet, but I'm hoping to get back to it soon. The U-Dek option is one I'd like to explore.

Thanks for any further info you can provide.

Gini

Click to expand...

Gini,
I have not done anything further with the overhang at this time, not sure that I will. I do not have the wood on the overhang, if I did and it was moldy I definitely would try the U-Dek. Myself and Knotflying used the U-Dek in the cockpit and swim platform, you can see pics in my photo album. This link has the company contact info viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9940&p=68639&hilit=u+dek#p68639 Give Matthew a call (401-256-7031) and talk to him about the project, (tell him I referred you). I would think you would have to make a very accurate template and send it to him to be cut out.

Brian, thanks for that contact information. I will call Matthew and, if I end up going this route, I will post on Tugnuts to let everyone know how it went.

Gini

Gin,
You might want to take a look at some of the products Plastique has to offer. The company is located in Ohio and will be more than happy to help you. I've looked at their products for our daughters boat and they are pretty customer oriented as well as having a variety of Plastique products and colors. Here is the link .... https://www.plasteak.com

Give them a call, tell them what you have and I'm sure they will be able to provide you with a great substitute for what Ranger uses on that sun visor. I'd love to hear what you think.
Al

I installed the U-Dek with Brian. After looking at the other products installation I think the U-deck is real easy. They cut each section and it is a peel and stick application. I Think for the overhang this will work out well.

Al, thanks for the suggestion. I will check it out, along with U-dek. Nice to have several options to consider.

Gin