Fuel pickup removal

T

tlkenyon

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Messages
670
Fluid Motion Model
R-25 SC
Non-Fluid Motion Model
3 kayaks, 1 canoe; R-21 (Nellie May I)
Vessel Name
Nellie May
MMSI Number
338219131
Been having fuel delivery issues, and it is probably a fouled fuel pickup. Maybe a dumb question, but exactly how is the fuel pickup removed? There is no visible hose clamp to remove in order to unscrew the fittings. Please pardon my ignorance, I do not want to wreck anything. Attached is a pic of the top of the fuel tank and the fittings.

THANKS
 
Remove fuel hose from valve (not shown in your picture) should have two hose clamps, depending on how much clearance you have you might have to remove valve handel to remove valve. The rest will unscrew. Then remove pick up tube from tank! Most mechanics will just remove screen attached to bottom of pick up tube, and use the Racor fuel filter to catch debris picked up from the tank.
If you have any problems just let us know and will try to help. Bob
 
Looking at your picture again I believe if you turn your valve counter clockwise, there might be enough slack to have access to the hose clamps for removal of fuel hose. Good luck Bob
 
It may work the way Bob described. If you can't turn the assembly while connected to the hose you may be able to get it from the cockpit side to remove the hose Then turn the entire assembly. If you cant make a complete turn to remove the assembly you will have to remove the valve. I suggest that you have a plug handy so you can seal off the hose and prevent fuel discharge to the bilge. If the above does not work you may have to remove the Webasto pump and shelf it is mounted on. A poor location to place that pump. It is hard enough to access the engine!
 
I removed my pick up early on to remove the screen. To make the job easier and to confirm that you have no air leaks after the job is completed I recommend removing all fittings in the order,
(1) remove fuel hose and plug it with a 3/8 barb fittings and a pipe cap threaded on the male barb fitting threads.
( 2) Remove the fuel valve. Unthread it from the pipe nipple and reducer
(3) Very important!!!! The large nut that sits flush to the tank top surface must not move when you are unscrewing the tank fuel pickup tube. Back the nut up with a properly sized wrench. Hold that wrench when loosening the pick up tube fitting. The Pick up tube fitting is going to be tight and will require a good amount of force to loosen. HOLD THE BACK UP WRENCH ANY TIME YOU ARE TRYING TO LOOSEN THE PICKUP TUBE FITTING. Once the fitting breaks loose apply a small amount lubrication to the threads and work the treads until it loosens then unscrew it the tube will pull out of the tank. There is a screen on the bottom of the tube remove it.

The large nut that sits on the surface of the tank holds and seals the threaded insertion installed in the tank in place. It is very important to not disturb this fitting by loosening it. It may leak if it is disturbed.

Do not let this happen http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo76 ... ure010.jpg
Pick up tube gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52942

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52966 This was my arrangement after installing polishing system. Notice the one port used to access the tank for inspection of water. The pipe plug is removes and an 1/8 inch tube is inserted to the bottom of the tank. Using a small drill driven oil pump and a container the sample is taken from the bottom of the tank.
 
Gonna do it today. Thanks to all, especially Brian, for the great advice. Will report how it goes...

Gonna first close the valve and then drain some fuel out of the racor. Unhook hose from the racor and with the hose end elevated, open the valve and blow into it to clear fuel from the hose to minimize spills. I just love the taste of diesel in the morning...tastes like...diesel.

TK
 
Pulled the pickup tube and removed the screen. I was not fouled completely, but there was some stuff on it. If you have not seen what it looks like, I have attached a picture.

When I went to reassemble, the curve in the hull was in the way to get the thread started into the tank-top fitting, so I moved the pickup tube over one space and it was a lot easier to get the threads started. That puts the pickup tube closer to where the return line enter the tank, and I hope that does not cause an aeration problem - the return fuel splashing into the tank and entraining air.

I also used some water-finding paste on a stick and did not find any water in the tank, and that is with the boat on the trailer and tipped back a ways to get any water to the lowest and aft-most part of the tank.

Fuel pickup tube screen. Original arrangement. Revised arrangement.

 
This thread has been "woke" by the "Low Top Speed" thread. These threads are exactly what I needed for support. Thank you!

Just two questions before I get back into it... Do I loosen the white flange nut on the tank and then back the tube out or do I just hold it steady and then break the tube free by putting force on the aluminum elbow? I'. a little worried about breaking the tube. Second, is there some sort of "dope" you use when resealing?
Thanks much!
Bobby
 
Bobby P.":3264lps7 said:
. Do I loosen the white flange nut on the tank and then back the tube out or do I just hold it steady and then break the tube free by putting force on the aluminum elbow? I'. a little worried about breaking the tube. Second, is there some sort of "dope" you use when resealing?
Click to expand...
BB marine":3264lps7 said:
I removed my pick up early on to remove the screen. To make the job easier and to confirm that you have no air leaks after the job is completed I recommend removing all fittings in the order,
(1) remove fuel hose and plug it with a 3/8 barb fittings and a pipe cap threaded on the male barb fitting threads.
( 2) Remove the fuel valve. Unthread it from the pipe nipple and reducer
(3) Very important!!!! The large nut that sits flush to the tank top surface must not move when you are unscrewing the tank fuel pickup tube. Back the nut up with a properly sized wrench. Hold that wrench when loosening the pick up tube fitting. The Pick up tube fitting is going to be tight and will require a good amount of force to loosen. HOLD THE BACK UP WRENCH ANY TIME YOU ARE TRYING TO LOOSEN THE PICKUP TUBE FITTING. Once the fitting breaks loose apply a small amount lubrication to the threads and work the treads until it loosens then unscrew it the tube will pull out of the tank. There is a screen on the bottom of the tube remove it.

The large nut that sits on the surface of the tank holds and seals the threaded insertion installed in the tank in place. It is very important to not disturb this fitting by loosening it. It may leak if it is disturbed.

Do not let this happen http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo76 ... ure010.jpg
Pick up tube gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52942

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52966 This was my arrangement after installing polishing system. Notice the one port used to access the tank for inspection of water. The pipe plug is removes and an 1/8 inch tube is inserted to the bottom of the tank. Using a small drill driven oil pump and a container the sample is taken from the bottom of the tank.
Click to expand...


Do not loosen the big nut. There is a picture that I posted . Do not let this happen. The big nut holds the thread insert that the pick up tube threads into. It is a plastic tank so the insert is installed and sealed the tank manufacture uses a special tool to install this. The goal is to not disturb this insert. The pick up tube is going to be very tight when you are removing it. I highly recommend having a wretch on the large nut backing it up so that when you loosen the pick up tube you do not disturb the seal on the large nut and insert.

If you read my post a few times you will understand it. It is easier for me to do the job than explain it!
 
I started this thread when I was having fuel delivery problems. My racor vacuum gauge was in the red and the engine was going into limp mode, even after repeated filter element changes. Removing the screen did not fix the problem. I ended up removing the pickup tube and shooting compressed air thru it...and a glob of what appeared to be a plastic bag came out. It was stuck in the 90degree bend at the top of the pickup tube. I would love to post a photo of it, but apparently, photos can no longer be added to ones photo albums.

Using the belt and suspenders approach, I drew down the fuel level in the tank to what I thought was 20 gallons. With a fuel transfer pump and a tube long enough to reach the bottom of the tank and the boat tilted sharply aft, I sucked 50 gallons from the tank (guess my fuel accounting was in need of refinement). The last 20 ounces or so was incredibly dirty and watery. The engine had 1,200 hours at this point (We Great Looped in 2017/18). I rinsed the tank repeatedly with small amounts of diesel until the fuel came out clean. I then set up a spare racor setup I have and and the diesel transfer pump, I filtered all 50 gallons, going from one of the 5-gallon can into a new, clean can and then into the boat. With the boat level, I measured the fuel level in the tank every 5 gallons. I have a chart and would post it if that was possible.

In the process of doing all this, I found that the tank is actually equipped with two pickup tubes. The "found" one still had the screen. To provide redundancy, I plumbed both pickup tubes into the system with a y-valve between the tank and the shutoff valve. So I have one pickup tube with screen and one without. I leave both branches of the y-valve open. With clean fuel and redundant fuel pickups, my Racor vacuum gauge has not jumped more than one notch in the green, even after lengthy WOT runs. If a problem returns, I will go from the non-screen to the screen pickup or vice-versa as needed.

I also put a Racor-provided drain valve on the bottom of the racor. The valve is attached directly to the filter body. For ease of drainage, I put a short length of fuel hose on the end of the valve with the required threaded plug in the end of the hose. This makes draining the racor easier and therefore more frequent. I take the plug out of the hose, insert the hose into a clear bottle, back off the top of the filter housing to break the vacuum, cycle the valve and collect a sample. Put the plug back in, tighten the t-handle and proceed. Nothing has show up in the sample after 40 hours of running.

Lastly, I built a funnel out of PVC that threads into the fuel port. I use coffee filters in the funnel when filling. The filters catch a surprising amount of "stuff" that would otherwise go into the tank.

Wish I could provide photos.....

TK
 
I successfully removed the pickup tube on my R31CB. Thanks for the support!

Drumroll.... The tube did, indeed, have a screen on the end that was pretty gunked up. When removing the tube I buggered up the 90degree aluminum fitting, so I had to buy a new pickup tube. The new one measured 24 inches, so I cut it down to 16" to match the one I removed. Next I will do the same for the generator.

My boat is a 2017. I suggest that anyone who has a diesel should do this preventative fix. I can't imagine being on a long run and losing fuel supply because the pickup tub is plugged. Remove this screen and and carry extra filters! Much easier to replace a primary filter and get underway again than go at removing the pickup tube in seas. I think I will also build polishing system in the near future.

I've got pics, but don't know how to post...

Thanks once again for the support!

Best,
Bobby
 
For Brian or anyone else who knows the answer . . . When replacing the fuel pickup tube, should the threads be coated with anything, either to ensure a good seal or for anti-corrosion and future removal?

Gini
 
Teflon tape
 
Did a sea trial yesterday and picked up a full 100 rpms. Now WOT is 3500. Has not been over 3400 for the last 2 years. Also recorded slight MPG/GPH improvement.
Going to replace the genset pick up tube today.
Bobby
 
Bobby, interesting that you picked up more rpm. How much grud was on the bottom of the tank? The screen doesn't just get fouled it gets fouled from crud that is floating around and laying on the bottom of the tank. The pickup tube normally sits about an inch off the bottom of the tank. Depending on the size of the tank this could be 5 to 10 gallons of sediment/fuel/water/slime. Adding an additive will help prevent this from happening but will not completely eliminate the issue. Over time the sediment builds up and will eventually start to foul the screen. The screen is not needed but many boat manufactures that build gas powered and diesel powered boats leave the screen in when it is a diesel powered boat. Removing the screen will eliminate one area of fouling and allow the crud to pass to the primary filter. This is an easier fix when fouling is present. Regardless, if fouling is seen in the screen removing the screen is a good step followed with a inspection and cleaning of the bottom of the tank. Once the tank is cleaned using a known good additive is helpful if the boat sits idle for a while to help maintain fresh clean fuel.
 
Hi Brian,

The screen was about 70% gunked up. The gunk was black and well-stuck to the screen. I replaced the tube with a new tube and made it about 3/4" longer. I, too, was surprised that I picked up almost 100 rpms. I also treated the fuel with Star-trone enzyme additive. That could actually be what is showing me the increased rpms but i've not know those claims to not be very accurate. I also showed small increase in speed. I monitor my rpms/gph/mpg constantly, so I am sure there has been some improvement in performance.

More interesting, I replaced the generator fuel pickup tube today and did not have a spec of gunk on that. I was sure it was going to be very similar, but not so! I know the flow and return rate between the generator and Volvo are significantly different, but I fully expected to have some build up.

I'm going to go ahead and build a polishing system with a pump and Racor 500 and an additional centrifuge. Not going to go to the extent of adding another fuel tank, but I did this on my last boat and it kept the fuel very clean.

What pump did you use in your system? Last time I used a walbro, but i can't seem to find the model that I had.

Thanks for your input, Brian!
Bobby
 
I used an oil transfer pump that was rated for the Racor GPH requirement. Marco® UP3/OIL 12V Gear Oil Pump, 3/8 in. NPT, 29 PSI, 3.3 ft. Self-Priming.
 
BB marine said:
I removed my pick up early on to remove the screen. To make the job easier and to confirm that you have no air leaks after the job is completed I recommend removing all fittings in the order,
(1) remove fuel hose and plug it with a 3/8 barb fittings and a pipe cap threaded on the male barb fitting threads.
( 2) Remove the fuel valve. Unthread it from the pipe nipple and reducer
(3) Very important!!!! The large nut that sits flush to the tank top surface must not move when you are unscrewing the tank fuel pickup tube. Back the nut up with a properly sized wrench. Hold that wrench when loosening the pick up tube fitting. The Pick up tube fitting is going to be tight and will require a good amount of force to loosen. HOLD THE BACK UP WRENCH ANY TIME YOU ARE TRYING TO LOOSEN THE PICKUP TUBE FITTING. Once the fitting breaks loose apply a small amount lubrication to the threads and work the treads until it loosens then unscrew it the tube will pull out of the tank. There is a screen on the bottom of the tube remove it.

The large nut that sits on the surface of the tank holds and seals the threaded insertion installed in the tank in place. It is very important to not disturb this fitting by loosening it. It may leak if it is disturbed.

Do not let this happen http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo76 ... ure010.jpg
Pick up tube gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52942

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52966 This was my arrangement after installing polishing system. Notice the one port used to access the tank for inspection of water. The pipe plug is removes and an 1/8 inch tube is inserted to the bottom of the tank. Using a small drill driven oil pump and a container the sample is taken from the bottom of the tank.
Click to expand...
I have a 2018 31CB and believe that the engine fuel pickup is becoming occluded. Are the fuel pickups for the engine and generator the same dimension? If the answer is yes, would a quick fix to get home be to swap the fuel hoses coming to the tank from each and start messing with wrenches to remove and clean at the home port? Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top