R27 Refrigerator- Screws Holding It to Structure Stripped

Sometime during a long tow in July, all four sheet metal screws holding the refrigerator to the surrounding fiberglass structure stripped out and the refrigerator popped out of its space a couple inches. I fixed it on that trip by installing larger size screws in the stripped out holes.

I knew it was a temporary fix and the day has come to make a more permanent fix— the bottom two screws have stripped out again and the refrigerator bottom is tilting out about 1/2”. The right way to secure a large, heavy object like a refrigerator would be with bolts and nuts. Sheet metal screws into fiberglass is just a lousy way to secure anything under a load. Unfortunately, I don’t see a good way to use bolts and nuts without removing the countertop for access.

If I go the sheet metal screw route, I will have to remove the refrigerator and drill new holes in the refrigerator perimeter frame for the screws to pass. The existing holes in the fiberglass structure where the refrigerator is located are hopelessly wallowed out and can’t be reused for sheet metal screws. I guess I could make a fiberglass repair at the stripped out holes, but my fiberglass skills are rudimentary. From what I can tell, this isn’t the first time these screws have stripped.

I may investigate fashioning a metal bracket around the existing wallowed out screw holes and install rivet nuts so I can use a bolt.

Has anybody dealt with this problem? I need ideas.

Would good old plastic expansion inserts work in the original holes enlarged when you used oversized screws...

Bob

I had a similar quandary trying to get a backing for the extra cleats I installed. Ended up using SNAPTOGGLEs with stainless bolts replacing the included bolts. Very pleased but the insert heads to sit slightly proud. A 1/16” thick application of adhesive sealer closed the gap.

You could epoxy wood blocks (hardwood would be best) behind the original screw holes and drill/screw into them.

CN

Captain Nice":1w1542ep said:

You could epoxy wood blocks (hardwood would be best) behind the original screw holes and drill/screw into them.

CN

Click to expand...

Great idea and easy to implement!

I will eventually contemplate the following:

Create a support rail at the bottom to carry the weight. The fridge needs to be removed to access the water tank and some wiring behind it.

And, attach a frame at the inside of the fine glass with metal insets for the screws so I can use metal screws instead of sheet metal/wood screws

stwendl":x341c0zb said:

.......attach a frame at the inside of the fine glass with metal insets for the screws so I can use metal screws instead of sheet metal/wood screws

Click to expand...

I was considering a metal bracket as you describe with rivet nuts (“metal insets”) for the screws. The problem I see is getting the bracket installed precisely enough so the four rivet nuts are positioned in the right spots to receive the screws through the holes in the refrigerator frame. The tolerance would be less than 1/8”.

If the refrigerator is out, can you epoxy in place some metal plates behind the holes. Then put fridge in place, mark the location of the holes then drill and tap the metal plates. Using the fridge as the template to locate the holes.

Part of the problem is there is no support at the rear and this creates a rotation out at the bottom. I placed an appropriate sized block at the rear to support the refrigerator. I have not had to modify the screw hole integrity, but if necessary in the future I was considering a snap nut or sometimes called a spring nut similar to those found on vehicles. I am not sure if they make them in a thickness to fit over the fiberglass. This is what I an referring to: https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-spring-nut-u-14-20-steel-pk25-4cug9/i/G1703195/

The key is really to put some support below the fridge. A support frame can be build with the unit out. Make the mounting holes in it and affix the screw inserts. Then temporarily attach some very thin metal sheet to it which holds it in place in the cut out formed like a u. This allows you to move the frame to position the screw holes for lining up. Make the sheet metal helper long enough to stick outside the fridge frame so you can tape them down after fixing it’s position. Then you take the unit out again and permanently attach the frame either by glueing it or using sink head screws

knotflying":yntskw5m said:

Part of the problem is there is no support at the rear and this creates a rotation out at the bottom. I placed an appropriate sized block at the rear to support the refrigerator. I have not had to modify the screw hole integrity, but if necessary in the future I was considering a snap nut or sometimes called a spring nut similar to those found on vehicles. I am not sure if they make them in a thickness to fit over the fiberglass. This is what I an referring to: https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-spring-nut-u-14-20-steel-pk25-4cug9/i/G1703195/

Click to expand...

I haven't pulled the refrigerator out yet, and it will be a few days before I do, but I will certainly put in a support block since it is swinging out bottom first. I suspect my refrigerator installation is just like yours since our boats are of similar vintage.

The spring nut is another great idea if one can be found with a wide enough gap to fit over the fiberglass.

stwendl":2ylnyzfj said:

The key is really to put some support below the fridge. A support frame can be build with the unit out. ....

Click to expand...

Once I get the refrigerator out, I will look at all the options. What you suggest is one of them.

Not knowing the hole distance from the edge of the cutout its hard to give a good fix. One option that works are rubber well nuts. We used them a lot on Boston Whalers for mounting accessories because there was no way to get to the back side of the fiberglass (Foam hull). I used a light coat of 5200 sealant on the outer surface of the well nut before installing it in the hole. The well nut for a 8-32 machine screw which is more then adequate to anchor the refrigerator would require a 5/16" hole. If you have enough space between the edge of the opening and the the existing hole this would be a easy permanent repair.

BB marine":3cmb4uja said:

......One option that works are rubber well nuts.....I used a light coat of 5200 sealant on the outer surface of the well nut before installing it in the hole. The well nut for a 8-32 machine screw which is more then adequate to anchor the refrigerator would require a 5/16" hole. If you have enough space between the edge of the opening and the the existing hole this would be a easy permanent repair.

Click to expand...

I’m not familiar with that fastener. I’ll look it up. Thanks.

The fix: Using countersunk #8 stainless flat head screws, I fastened wood blocks behind the existing wallowed out screw holes. This gives the screws that hold the refrigerator in place something solid to bite into.

The root cause of the problem is that the bottom rear of the refrigerator has no support. All the bumps and swerves of towing puts a load on the bottom screws. To alleviate that load, I installed a couple of rails for the the bottom rear of the refrigerator to rest upon.

This is one of the wallowed out screw holes with wooden block installed.



This is the refrigerator space with the wood rails installed on the floor of the space. I cut down some scrap 2x4 lumber to the depth of the front lip of the refrigerator opening- 2 5/8” on my boat.

Thanks for sharing this info. I had the exact same issue after trailering. Ended up implementing a very similar solution. Your pics were very helpful. I'm definitely surprised that there isn't some form of support for the base of the frig, since I suspect that is the biggest reason that it pulled out of its mountings. I put in a couple runners below the frig as well as wood blocks behind the face screws, and it works great. Sizing them was a little tricky because the floor is sloped down towards the aft and therefore the two runners had different heights. Same thing with the side blocks, as the sizing was different for each one. Overall, though, this solution seems to work great.

Bummer, I thought I had taken pictures of my solution, but cannot find them. In any case, thanks again for this post as it helped me solve this same issue!

Regards,
-Darryl
2021 Ranger Tug R29-CB