Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby BB marine on Tue Feb 26, 2019 11:10 am

Solenoid is normal close position ( no power). It actuates when energized, opens for flush. Then closes to block water connection to head. The only true water connection to the head is the solenoid. If it has power it is open and allowing flow.The chances of back contamination with the solenoid being the block valve and pressure on the fresh water side along with the vacuum breaker mounted on the top of the head. A block valve is only needed for repairs. A check valve is another redundancy. If it makes you feel better about it go for it.
Brian Brown
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby NautiTug on Tue Feb 26, 2019 2:30 pm

makes sense. I will report back with pictures this weekend hopefully.
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby Larry1030 on Thu Mar 14, 2019 10:07 am

Took delivery of our new Ranger Tug R27OB in Laurene Green last week. Based on my research on Tugnuts and knowing how we plan to use our boat, knew I wanted to make the conversion from raw water to fresh water for the toliet. Contacted Raritan to place my order for the conversion kit. Like others on this post, was told the price was around $325. However, because of posts here I talked to Brian at Raritan and he said they are offering a special for Tugnuts members of approx. $185. He said they are working on a coupon code so that the kit can be ordered at the lower price on line. They hope to post the coupon code soon. I got his permission to pass this along on Tugnuts. If you need to order the kit before then, his extension is 222 at Raritan. I encouraged Brian to discuss with Fluid Motion the concept of including a raw water/fresh water selector on future model. Love our new boat and look forward to great times. Will keep the boat on a lift at our private pier here in Pensacola, Florida.
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby NautiTug on Thu Mar 14, 2019 11:23 am

Thanks Larry. Yes Rartain has also been very helpful in answering all my questions as I am in the process of making the conversion on my boat
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby ixlr8 on Thu Mar 14, 2019 4:20 pm

I am looking at this upgrade for my 27OB. Is the solenoid necessary? I have all the fittings I need to do this, but no solenoid. Will the pressurized fresh water flow into the toilet if there is no solenoid?
TOUCAN- What size accumulator did you put in? That is another mod I hope to do before the boat goes back in the water in May.
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby BB marine on Thu Mar 14, 2019 7:47 pm

Solenoid/ Valve is necessary. The pressurized fresh water line goes to the head. The solenoid /valve is used to turn the water flow on to the head when actuated and turn water off when not actuated. You could use a manual ball valve in place of the Solenoid/valve. Hand operate the flush water.
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby ixlr8 on Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:15 am

BB marine wrote:Solenoid/ Valve is necessary. The pressurized fresh water line goes to the head. The solenoid /valve is used to turn the water flow on to the head when actuated and turn water off when not actuated. You could use a manual ball valve in place of the Solenoid/valve. Hand operate the flush water.

Thanks for this info, guess I need to add another item to my list of parts before I get started. I still have some time as the boat is still covered with snow and ice.
Jim
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby quinsky on Fri Mar 15, 2019 7:10 pm

I went the easy, cheap route on my C 28. I installed a shut off valve to the head intake at the strainer. Now I use the fresh water spigot from the sink to fill and flush. I worry about contamination when connecting the fresh water system to the head. Germs can get around check valves.
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby BB marine on Sat Mar 16, 2019 8:32 am

quinsky wrote:I went the easy, cheap route on my C 28. I installed a shut off valve to the head intake at the strainer. Now I use the fresh water spigot from the sink to fill and flush. I worry about contamination when connecting the fresh water system to the head. Germs can get around check valves.


Patrick, I had the same concerns before converting Raw to fresh water. There are some opinions that say there is a possibility of contamination. I had that opinion too. When I spoke to the representative from Raritain I asked him about this concern. His first question was " is your fresh water flush in your home attached to your common freshwater system ?" My answer was yes, but there is a tank to separate. His comment to that was " we include a vacuum breaker in the kit that is installed on the top of the head where the water discharges for flush, this separates it." There is also a positive close valve (solenoid valve) and water pressure on the down stream side of the valve." The components are designed to stop cross contamination. Do they ? I excepted his explanation. Your method guarantees no cross contamination. Honestly I'm not worried about it, and we use our fresh water system for drinking water.It is a valid concern. I will be the first to post don't do this if I get sick! :shock:

Did you remove the seawater pump from the head? I don't think it will hurt to run dry because it is an eccentric driven diaphragm pump. The advantage of removing it if you are not using it for seawater flush is the head makes 75% less noise when flushing (my opinion) The eccentric driven pump makes most of the noise while flushing.
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby jkhiser on Sun Mar 17, 2019 2:15 pm

On Wenniway, the prior owner just moved the head suction from the raw water strainer to the suction side of the fresh water pump. The head pump draws from the FW tank through the original SW vented loop. You do not need the fresh water pump online to flush the head.
Kenyon & Maggie Hiser
2013 C-28 WENNIWAY, purchased Feb 2018
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- 2005 Nordic Tug 37 (Wenniway III)
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby BB marine on Sun Mar 17, 2019 4:05 pm

jkhiser wrote:On Wenniway, the prior owner just moved the head suction from the raw water strainer to the suction side of the fresh water pump. The head pump draws from the FW tank through the original SW vented loop. You do not need the fresh water pump online to flush the head.


I'm not sure how that works. It does because you are using it. I question the plumbing sequence. The Vented loop has to be on the pressure side of the pump. If it is on the suction side it will suck air and not pump. The biggest issue with having a fresh water flush is the chance of getting cross contamination from the head to the freshwater system. Not likely but possible. The only separation from toilet bowl and freshwater system is the Loop installed. If the previous owner installed the loop 2' feet above the head ( fresh water pressure side to allow separation ) and a check valve between the suction line of the head pump and suction side of the freshwater system pump. If the loop vent is working properly and the check valve is seated 100% this should allow enough separation from your fresh water system and the head. There needs to be a positive barrier between the head and the fresh water tank with redundancy to help eliminate cross contamination. The kit offers this, Vacuum breaker, block valve (solenoid) and system relies on water pressure all maintaining a positive barrier.
Brian Brown
Cutwater 26
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby quinsky on Sun Mar 17, 2019 7:13 pm

Brian, Thanks for the info. My concern for contamination comes from being a healthcare provider :D No I did not disconnect the raw water pump. I confess that my knowledge of the head is lacking. I need to do a little research. I took the path of least resistance.
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Re: Converting CW 30 head to fresh water.

Postby jkhiser on Sun Mar 17, 2019 9:05 pm

Brian - good questions.

I am more than a year into this boat, correcting prior owner mods, and now I guess I need to add the head to the list of things to examine and prolly correct. Just yesterday I finally got the bonding system back to complete configuration. Still got all sorts of weirdness in electrical system to ferret out.

As far as the supply vented loop, it remains on the outlet of the SW (now FW) pump on the head. The pump just sucks from the small FW tank instead of the big SW tank.

It seems fairly unlikely that contaminated water could work back through the vented loop to the FW tank. I have seen no evidence of a check valve. Of course, I have not examined for one either. If there is not one, I will prolly add a solenoid isolation valve.
Kenyon & Maggie Hiser
2013 C-28 WENNIWAY, purchased Feb 2018
-----
Prior:
- 2005 Maritime Skiff Voyager 23 (Bessie Jane)
- 2005 Nordic Tug 37 (Wenniway III)
- 1989 Egg Harbor 37 (Wenniway II)
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