Engine Bracket on R23 Filling with Water

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Re: Engine Bracket on R23 Filling with Water

Postby hames57 on Fri Mar 15, 2019 1:27 pm

here is a ridiculous idea, because I don't have a bigger tug I doubt I understand the issue. If that space isn't used for storage and water inside that space doesn't hurt anything other than the weight issue, then why not hack some big ol' holes in it and let it fill and drain in real time. I must be missing something. I am a rocket scientist and I know you can just willy nilly hack some holes. There would have to be a simple analysis to tell you how big of holes and what spacing to not affect the main use of the bracket to hold up the engine. I will assume I'm missing something, but it makes me feel better to participate in the conversation.
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Re: Engine Bracket on R23 Filling with Water

Postby Chimo on Fri Mar 15, 2019 2:38 pm

Isn't the idea of the pod to provide flotation, offsetting the weight of the motors off the stern? I seem to recall that the original hull design for the R23 (and maybe R27) was as an I/O. That would have seen the COG further forward. If that's true then the bilge pump, automatic, would seem to be essential.
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Re: Engine Bracket on R23 Filling with Water

Postby BB marine on Fri Mar 15, 2019 4:38 pm

Chimo wrote:Isn't the idea of the pod to provide flotation, offsetting the weight of the motors off the stern? I seem to recall that the original hull design for the R23 (and maybe R27) was as an I/O. That would have seen the COG further forward. If that's true then the bilge pump, automatic, would seem to be essential.


It is true the Pod should add a positive flotation to help offset the weight of the large four-stroke engines.. The brackets or pod set backs put the outboard in clean water with less disturbance from the hull and give the ability to mount the engine higher reducing drag from the Lower unit, this adds to speed and fuel economy. The floatation is either from a foam filled pod ( example ( Whaler drive) or a Air sealed chamber example ( Armstrong Brackets.) From what is described in this topic the Ranger /Cutwater Pod is not an air tight pod but I believe it is designed to be flotation box.

The two areas of concern I believe is the non sealing inspection plates and the low mounting of the cable thru hull boot. Any inspection cover in a outboard well should be a water tight seal with positive sealing. Many of the plastic "Beckson plate" style work well for vertical installations but not for horizontal installations where they can be covered with water repetitively. The motor well of an outboard would be an area this could be an issue. Cudo's to Fluid Motion for recognizing this and now installing Armstrong Deck plates in the wells. Armstrong has been using their water tight compression deck plates for years to keep water out of the positive flotation chamber of their brackets.

I personally don't like the location the cables or wire harness is routed thru the motor well. It is to low and can be susceptible to water intrusion. I'm not sure why Fluid Motion installed the cable thru hull boots that low on the C24, R23 and the Cutwater C302. You can seal them, install shrink wrap sleeves round them but in a few years it's going to leak. The install looks clean and the cables are out of the way but the price for that install is leaks. Most Blue Water Bracket outboards or Pod mounted outboard boats have the cable runs on a vertical surface on the transom above the highest point that the sea water will reach on the transom while cruising, docked or anchored with all sea conditions considered.The point that the cables go thru the transom should be designed so the cables pass thru the transom in an upward angle. This helps eliminate any water from running along the cables and draining in the boat. Good luck to all that are experiencing the issue described in this Topic. I'm sure Fluid Motion will come up with solutions to resolve the issue. The bilge pump solution gets the water out but doesn't stop the water from coming in. Its a reactive solution.

BDA wrote:I put a " T " joint in the existing drainage tube in the pod to use as a drainage line. Took off the float switch on the Johnson pump. A couple times a day while in use I just turn on that pump for a couple of minutes and it empties that pod.


I may not have understood the description of the plumbing of your bilge pump. Disregard if I did. If you installed a T into the well drain hose that drains the water in the motor well and discharges out on the side of the pod. I would install a check valve after the tee going to your bilge pump. This check valve would stop water intrusion to the bilge pump from the well drain or the thru Hull.
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Re: Engine Bracket on R23 Filling with Water

Postby Andrew Custis on Sat Mar 16, 2019 12:14 am

The easy solution is to use the watertight Armstrong brackets as mentioned above. We will be switching to these on all current production builds after testing many other inspection plates that don’t hold up to what their specs are. For any 23 or 302 owners, please feel free to reach out to your dealer you purchased the boat from and ask them to contact our warranty department. They can fill out a parts request and we will send you them free of charge.

Ranger 27 and Cutwater 24 or 242 owners, this does not apply to you.

Thank you,
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Ranger Tugs & Cutwater Boats
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