Pearl's 21EC recent modifications

Thanks to Port Nut for the pilot house table.

Thanks to the Wanderer for the Port Access idea.

I also added gutter drain to the pilot house.

Lastly, the windlass with foot switches.

Wow, nice work!

sheral":1oertm4c said:

Wow, nice work!

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Yes, 1+ on the NICE WORK!

PLEASE give details on the windlass project. Make, model, etc of windlass and anchor roller? Does the rode land in the usual anchor locker?

You are this week's MOD KING! I am in AWE!!

dave

Dave,

Really thoughtful and innovative work. I appreciate your many ideas and have either used them or modified them in some of my mods.

Great looking changes!!

The windless looks very impressive

Model of Windlass you used and comment on whether this is the one you'd use again.
All products were purchased from Lewmar. The Windlass is the Pro-Series 700, 50 amp circuit breaker part #68000348, sealed contactor part #68000939, guarded rocker switch part #68000593, and foot switches. I would use the Pro-Series again.

How you fabricated the 'box' it sits upon.
I can’t take full credit for the ‘box’ as it was fabricated at a wood shop where I live. I used cardboard to cut out the angles of the boat and the wood shop did the rest. I had a little trimming and sanding to get the fit that I wanted. I did build the frame for the two exterior teak sections. The frame is glued and screwed to the boat. The three threaded rods from the windlass go through the framework that I used for the ‘box’. The sealed contactor is located inside the ‘box’, I removed the five screws on the vertical section to gain access to the sealed contactor.

Does the 'box' become the anchor locker (where the rode piles up) OR does it fall directly down into the factory rode locker?
The rode falls directly into the factory rode locker. There were times when the rode piled up in the ‘box’ area and I had to assist the rode into the locker. I cut the hole in the bow larger this spring to assist the rode going into the locker and it seems to have fixed the problem.

Which anchor roller you used.
I used a Lewmar anchor roller part number 66840009 just to get the anchor further from the bow.

I see the UP/DOWN foot switches...did you install any type of remote?
No, I did not install a remote at this time. I have the rocker switch located in the pilot house in addition to the foot switches.

Hello Eric,

Pearl":z4j72qya said:

Does the 'box' become the anchor locker (where the rode piles up) OR does it fall directly down into the factory rode locker?
The rode falls directly into the factory rode locker. There were times when the rode piled up in the ‘box’ area and I had to assist the rode into the locker. I cut the hole in the bow larger this spring to assist the rode going into the locker and it seems to have fixed the problem.

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I see the windlass is mounted on a triangular platform. I was calling it a 'box' because I THOUGHT there was a wall enclosing the AFT edge of the triangle...but now I wonder if it was just a shadow. Is your windlass platform OPEN or closed on the AFT edge?

And thanks for the details,

dave

It is closed at the aft edge. There is a bit of reflection from the boat. On the aft section there are 5 screws to gain access to the contactor and the windlass.

Pearl":r7ovcn94 said:

It is closed at the aft edge. There is a bit of reflection from the boat. On the aft section there are 5 screws to gain access to the contactor and the windlass.

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Ahh, thanks...I SEE the 5 screws now that you say that.

Did you need to move the center bow cleat?

/dave

I did not move the cleat. I can take measurements next time I'm at the marina.

The length of the deck "box" is 12.5" and the width is 28"

Pearl":2liw4rpn said:

The length of the deck "box" is 12.5" and the width is 28"

Click to expand...

THANKS Eric!

/dave

Hi Eric': Am intererested in your chart table design. When in the 'down' position, what does the table rest upon? I presume it is not supported by any of the control panel switches? Possibly, the edge of the fixed wooden aft chart table and something else? Be interested to know so I can design something. I wasthinking of using a nice piece of solid timber, however I also like the material you have used. Regards, Stevan

Stevan,

The table rests on the teak moulding above the fridge, doing so the table clears the control panel switches.


It wouldn't be a bad idea to use wood. I used a plastic cutting board for mine and place a mat when using it as a food prep table, otherwise the food likes to slide around.

Eric

Thanks Eric. Yes, I had thought of your material, but, purely for aesthetics I plan to use some sort of hard wood (our local Jarrah, or Tasmanian Oak would be nice) and then clear lacquer it to bring out the grain. Appreciate your thoughts - will let you know how I go. Regards, Stevan

Pearl, I've been looking around for an anchor windless. I found that "Corrosion will eventually set into the housing/gears/assembly of the various "Pro" 700 Models'. That is -'If not routinely rinsed inside & out between trips and covered for corrosion prevention'. It goes without saying that any windless must receive a certain amount of Routine Maintenance, right along with any other boat accessory. Your customizations with anchor windless look great .. BB+

Very nice mods. I'm surprised Ranger does not make the two step storage boxes as standard as every little bit of extra storage on the R-21EC would be welcomed by its owners. 🙂

My next mod is to have a cup holder closer to the helm. I also want to figure out where to have my 1.2 liter vacuum flask stored safely from falling down when underway for easy access from the helm. In my R-25 I simply had it laying in the sink behind the helm seat and could reach around a grab it when I wanted a refill.

Do you have a cover for your windless?

Sorry, for the super slow reply and the answer is, I do not have a cover for the windless.