LAXEY - Barry & Gill
2019 R29 CB Performance Data
2019 R29 CB Performance Data
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Anti-chafing for engine hoses
Photos showing what Ranger did to avoid engine hoses chafing on my 2016 R-21EC
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Aqua Maps
Photo images for Aqua Maps on my iPhone X
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baz on September 28, 2017, 12:01 pm
Since I had our R-27/OB I've been mystified as to why the Nav seat's backrest does not fold over onto its seat. The factory photos for the R-27/OB clearly show that it does and should.
Yesterday I took this issue to task and pondered over this issue. Looking at the hinge mechanism I could not see why the backrest did not flip down onto the seat by simply pulling forward on it. I actually knelt down on the seat and applied some effort to the backrest to fold it down thinking that the paint on the hinge mechanism was somehow glued together stopping it from folding down. This proved to be a useless effort as the backrest simply would not budge.... Hmmmmm..... so I took a more careful look at the hinge mechanism. The isle side facing hinge looked as if there was nothing hindering the backrest from folding. I then took a much closer look at the other port side hinge and the 'light' went on.... there was a bolt running right through the hinge which was the culprit. The bolt was unpainted.... and this was a clue to me.
My guess after removing the bolt is that the factory decided, for good reason, to avoid the backrest from folding down because if it is and then with the whole seat folded forward the port side hinge bracket will be resting on the fiber glass where there's a cup holder.... and thus having the potential from damaging the fiber glass at the cup holder location.
I like having the backrest folded down and have placed a stuck-on pad at the point the metal bracket touches the fiber glass.
So, if you find this bolt on your R-27/OB and remove it be aware of the potential for damaged fiber glass at the cup holder position when folding the seat down to increase counter top space.
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Fans, RobShip bags/folders and Fire Extinguishers
On my new R29 CB I have installed two Caframo 12v fans, several RobShip items, two Fire Extinguishers, clocks, barometer and Binocular hanging case.
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Fill-Rite flow meter installation for 2018 R-27/OB
This set of photos depicts having a Fill-Rite flow meter installed for measure the input gallons of raw water demanded by the head/toilet flushing.
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Flow Meter for head use
I wanted a means to know how full my holding tank was. It's a mere 30 gallon tank and I did not want the issue of it filling up and causing smelly unwanted issues. As the tank on the new 2018 R-27/OB is completely hidden it is simply guess work know how full the holding tank is and having to pump out at times when its necessary. To resolve this issue I installed a Rite Fill flow meter in the raw water inlet line to the head in a position to avoid measuring flow to the raw water wash down pump.
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Garelick Eez Table Pedestal
These are photos of the Geralick Eez Table Pedestal that I used to replace the Ranger Tug's stock table support product.
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Genset
I captured a Genset installed in the cockpit's center locker. It takes up most of the space.
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Hidden Cubby in the R27 Outboard
On the 2018 R-27/OB model, inside the cave and just forward of the two port hole lights alongside the hull there's a vertical panel covered with fur. Placing a finger into the top edge it can be carefully pulled/hinged out and down to reveal a cubby space that not only has a small storage space but reveals a bunch of wires.
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Installing curved windshield in newer RTs
These few photos show how the factory installs and glues the curved windshield glass.
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Lookout
Petra was supposed to be my Lookout.... food was more important.
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New Torqeedo brackets
This album shows the old and new brackets
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New V-berth cushion arrangement for 2018 R-27
Ranger Tugs has had difficulty figuring out the best cushion arrangement for the V-berth. This may or may not be the final design.
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These photos depicts the fuel fill cap and the fuel vent port on a 2016 R-21EC. It also shows how the fuel vent line is support to avoid it sagging as it runs from port to starboard. The photos were taken at the Kent factory during the boat's assembly during July/Aug 2015.
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The R-27/OB requires two fire extinguishers. This shows were they were located.
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Platforms for R27 Classic and R27 Outboard
Platforms for R27 Classic and R27 Outboard
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Prop Shaft Brush & Transom plate zinc
Installing a prop shaft brush and a transom plate zinc
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Pudgy modification for Torqeedo motor
I added a strong steel bracket to the Pudgy's transom to not only strengthen it from bending when the Torqeedo motor is at full thrust but it also provides some safety for avoiding the C-clamp from moving up and twisting off the transom all together.
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R-21EC King Marine Canvas Angler Edition with Full Enclosure
I've received numerous enquiries about our Canvas from King Marine for our 2016 R-21EC.
First, the style per King Marine (Dave) is: R-21 Angler Edition with Full Enclosure. We chose or should I say Andrew/Dave chose the Charcoal Tweed material canvas color for us -- and their choice was excellent IMO.
The frame has but 4 vertical poles, two roof slightly curved poles over cockpit and another at the transom end along with two short supporting angular struts in the top rear two corners.
The top is one piece of material, attaches to the Pilot House rear roof line via an install track. The sides of the top are rolled around and snapped in place to the longitudinal poles held up by the 4 vertical poles. The end result is a very tight roof and it can be tapped with the back of the hand and sounds very taught/tight and somewhat springy.
I've found the top can be left in place for short trailering distances without issues. However, for longer trailering distances and especially on freeways or 55 mph primary roads it would be strongly advised to remove the top and stow it.
There are a total of 9 zippered panels that are used for the full enclosure. Also included are two gusset strips that are provided to attach/zip the panels adjacent to the Pilot House sides. These could easily be left in place during trailering but as they are really easy to install there's no need for that... just remove them and stow them is my advice.
The panel sections above the cockpit railing are (in my case) 40 ga clear vinyl and quite stiff, but not so stiff they cannot be easily rolled in about a 5" diameter so that the whole panel can be rolled and raised to the top roof line and held there in place by two straps that clip to secure the rolled up panel. The lower section of each panel is canvas and aligns with the cockpit railing.
Of the 9 panels, all but two can be rolled up. The two transom corner panels cannot be rolled up for obvious reasons IMO.
The rear/transom panel that can be rolled up is a very generous size (width-wise) and opens up the whole swim step for easy access and the joys from listening to the water noises as the boat slips through the water... ;)
There are two opening flaps in the lower rear side panels to provide access to the stern-most cleats.
After the Factory Delivery experience on the water the panels were removed for trailering. My idea was to remove the side and rear set of three panels as one piece. That is each of these sections had three panels and the were left zipped together. Thus only three large panels if you like resulted. Each one was then fold at the zipper lines and folded over to form a single panel. This single panel then was fold one more time such that the width ended up being just shy of 18". Thus stowing these was simplified and the real advantage was that when wanting to install the full enclosure later it would be easy to know where each set of three panels went. Without this you will have 9 panels and figuring out where they all go takes time and is tedious and wastes valuable time IMO.
Today in my driveway I took the three zipped folded panels out of the V-berth and installed them on my own for the first time. [u]I timed myself and it took me 54 minutes[/u]. Talking with Dave at King Marine, he was impressed and told me that time should be easily halved after doing the full enclosure install a few more times. He liked my idea of keeping each set of zipped 3 panels together to facilitate easy re-installation. The trick in getting the panels zipped up quickly is to figure out which zips need to be released to lessen the strain elsewhere when zipping things up.
Dave indicated that with the first case of rain on the full enclosure there maybe some water leaks at the zipper lines. This will quickly resolve itself and I was not to worry. There must be some sort of self-healing at play here. :lol:
I managed to take some photos as I went along and during my 54 minutes. I have placed the photos in my Dropbox and in my Photo Album.
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R-21EC Zincs after 20 months
These are photos of my 2016 R-21EC zincs after being in on the dry for 4 months, then fresh water for 18 months and then in salt water for 2 months. My diver zinc inspector took these photos before and after the inspection with some of them being replaced and some things just being cleaned.
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R-23 and R-27/OB Transom views
This is a bare look at the transom for the R-23 and R-27/OB
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R-23 vs. R-25SC fuel burn and speed
This chart shows the difference between the R-25SC and R-23 fuel burn vs. speed
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R-27/OB V-berth cushion and table re-design
Ranger Tugs has re-designed the new 2018 R-27/OB's V-berth cushions and table. These photos detail the change.
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R27 Underwater zinc replacement
I had to replace ALL my underwater zincs on my R-27 OB after being in slat water for 6 - 1/2 months.
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R27's Yamaha F300 Performance Data
Official Yamaha's Performance Data for the 2018 R-27 with the F300 outboard.
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R29 Transducer
RT did move the transducer in later R29 builds because they said it gave better and more accurate information and on my 2019 R29 CB NW Edition the transducer is located directly on the hull and directly under the cockpit storage locker(s) adjacent to the starboard side cabin wall. I captured this when I visited the Monroe factory as my R29 was being assembled.
It's not easily accessed and there's a hole in the base of the storage locker (mentioned above) that provides a straight line view to the transducer. Maintenance for this transducer will likely be a real PITA. In my case, the hole is not plugged as mentioned by Kevin and I have to take care nothing falls through the hole; I have plugged it with a soft rag to avoid things falling down the hole.
My guess is that unless you have a very very skinny arm with cameras in its finger tips you will have no success in dealing with any transducer maintenance. In my case, I suspect I would have to open up the hole to be bigger so access to the transducer is more manageable. If my transducer does fail within my new boat warranty, I'll be having RT do the transducer maintenance for sure. ;)
Note: The only way to view the transducer is to clear out all the stuff in the cockpit's starboard double stacked storage lockers up against the cabin wall (this is where the cockpit rear helm is located on/in the double stacked storage lockers or the sink option is located in same location). Then stick your head as best you can into the lower or upper storage locker and peer down through the hole; a mirror on a stick could be used for this I suppose as an alternative.
I really hope I never have to do transducer maintenance on my boat outside of its factory warranty period.
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Raising/Lower Portland Pudgy Dinghy
A 4:1 block and tackle is used to allow raising and lowering the Portland Pudgy attached via SS davits on the swim step of an R25. The max load/effort required with this system is no more than 30 lbs and reduces to almost zero as the Pudgy reaches 90º from the water. The final position for the Pudgy is for it to lean forward to rest on the transom railing. It's secured with a single quick release nylon strap that goes around the railing top and the slot in the Pudgy's keel. When underway or Pudgy not immediately needed the block and tackle is removed and stowed in a waterproof bag.
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Red Centerline placed on the F300 Outboard
I placed this very bright red Scotch Extreme mounting tape on my F300 to aid me for knowing which direction the F300 was pointing.
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Sea Eagle 385ft FastTrack Kayak
To ensure I knew all about how to setup the 385ft FastTrack Kayak I used my living room to check things out. I was waiting on my electric pump to arrive so I used the foot air bellows. I partially filled the sides to around 75% then ensured the drop-stitched floor was tucked into base of the side pontoons and inflated the floor. I then pumped the side pontoons to full pressure. This took no more than 10 mins for my first try. The Kayak hull weighs 32 lbs and is easily moved by one person. It's 12.5 feet long and will fit nicely on top of our new 2018 R-27/OB with some of it overhanging the cockpit canopy. I'll use Kayak carrier brackets to secure the Kayak to the cross bars and will install it right side up. The Kayak has two drain ports near its stern so this can be left open when underway to drain and rain or sea water. To unload the Kayak my thoughts are that I would release it from the Kayak carrier brackets and slide it forward to the foredeck and then launch it overboard. If I wanted to stow this Kayak when deflated it will go into its bag 25"x18"x8" and be placed behind the transom door on the stern platform. The build quality of this FastTrack is excellent. I'll leave the FastTrack inflated in my living room for maybe a week to make sure there are no leaks. I will then deflate it and take to the R-27 to see how well it will install on the R-27's cabin top on the port side.
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SeaEagle 365ft FastTrack on cabin roof
This is my first attempt to see how well my SeaEagle 365ft FastTrack kayak will fit on top of the cabin on the new 2018 R-27 outboard model. The solar panel really needs to be moved over to port by about 6" as the current kayak's position overlaps the solar panel's edge slightly so that this portion gets only partial direct light.
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Shelving for the R25 Classic V berth
Now it's onto building some shelf/shelves for the V-berth. I decided the place for the shelf would be around the curved portion in the roof at the level where the starboard covered Monkey fur attached to the roof. This portion appears to be a perfect circle of approximately 43" radius. I used a template to obtain the correct curvature.
One requirement 1st Mate gave me was to not place a shelf on the starboard side as this is where she placed a number of cushions/pillows to lean into while stretched out from starboard to port with her legs. If shelving were to be placed where I explained above it would interfere with where her head would be. So, the shelving had to be all the way from the port side to about 45º to starboard beyond the center point.
Another requirement or restriction if you like was to not make the shelves too deep otherwise one would contact the shelf edges when clamoring into bed. ;) I mean to say, I don't want 1st Mate to knock herself out... :lol:
I constructed two wood pieces from vertical grain fir and stained them with a Teak Stain. The curvature was made with a 43" radius and the other side was simply straight.
I will use the same technique for supporting the shelves as I did for my cabin entrance headroom shelving. That was using flat galvanized steel framing joint plates slid between the roof and the starboard headlining. With three of these cantilevered out per shelf the shelves can be attached to the plates and supported adequately. The shelf straight edges will be built up with a bottom fiddle attached directly to the shelf edge and a top fiddle supported with brass angled pieces to match my kitchen counter ledge shelf and the cabin entrance headroom shelving. The bottom fiddle is attached to the shelf otherwise small objects could slid off the shelf and onto the V-berth bedding. I anticipate placing wrist watches, iPhones, eye glasses, an alarm clock, keys, portable battery powered radio, flashlight, glass of Cock'n Bull Ginger Beer, medicines and what not items needed at night time while tucked away under our Goose down comforter. :D
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Some moored R23s I looked at
I found two R-23s at my Edmonds Marina today and captured a few photos. These R-23 are outboard models and looked awesome. I was disappointed seeing the rusting on the trim tabs for what are two newish boats.
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Step leading to the V Berth
The step down to the forward berth area is made from starboard with a no slip surface. This surface is not only cold for bare feet but the forward leading edge is kind of sharp and could/can cut the sole of one's foot.
I decided to round the forward leading edge and place some indoor/outdoor carpet on the surface of the step.
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Thetford Tecmar EasyFit ECO series electric head
Our fresh water Thetford Tecmar EasyFit ECO series electric head has now been installed. It works and 1st mate says it's wonderful. :)
It took some 7 hours to install. Hardest part was snaking the electrical lines from the forward 12v breaker panel to the head compartment. Wires were pulled through a hole cut in floor of cubby under sink in head room. (see photo)
Installing a new circuit breaker in the 12v circuit breaker panel is a dog as the complete bus bar has to be loosened just to insert a new breaker.
The original raw water hose was capped off with a stopcock valve. This was done to allow a raw water pickup for some other use later on.
The fresh water was teed off with a 90 deg elbow using PEX tubing attached to cold water line under sink in head room. (see photo)
A small bus bar was installed under the sink in the head room to gather and connect all the wires nicely/neatly. (see photo)
A 40amp circuit breaker was used although I could have got by with a 30amp. (see photo)
A small two position rocker switch operates a quick flush or fill bowl with water and then quick flush.
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Trim Tabs
When hauling my R-25 (Classic) out for new bottom paint I discovered some corrosion issues with the trim tab. One or more bolts and the trim tab hinge were compromised.
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Water in aft bilge in my R27 Outboard model
I finally was able to figure out how water was making its way into my art bilge area.
What appears to happen is that when back flushing the kicker motor so much water is being pushed through the engine that much water exits at the rear of the engine and as it is fully raised up much of the water coming out from this rear area gets into the 3" corrugated conduit and finally makes its way to inside the boat and drenches the cross stringer that the ski tow bar's base plate is attached to with most of presumably going into the aft-most bilge and from there when the water level reached the seep hole flows into aft bilge where the bilge pump is.
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Wooden slat protecting open Nav window
With the Nav window fully open on the R-27/OB model it's just too easy for any object laying on the dash adjacent to the window to slid out the window. Placing a wooden slat on the outer edge of the dash will help protect things from disappearing out the window.
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Wooden slat to avoid losing items out of Port side window
On the R-27/OB and possibly on the R-23 the flat surface at the windshield and adjacent to the port side Nav's window the chance for things to fly out the window is inevitable without there being something installed to avoid this happening. On the R-27/OB prototype model Ranger Tugs did install a vertical teak strip parallel to the window to presumably stop things flying out the open window. However, for some reason they never installed this as a stock item on all the production R-27/OB models. For $0 dollars I installed a wooden slat to protect things from flying out the window.
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