Perplexing Windlass and Electrical Problem R23

pdo

pdo

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
Messages
81
Fluid Motion Model
C-288 C
Vessel Name
Selah
Today I experienced a perplexing situation with the windlass on my 2021 R23.Please bear with me as I try to explain what happened.

I was trying to anchor and my windlass would not activate. I could hear it clicking, but no motion with the anchor and chain. I immediately checked and reset the windlass breaker in the electrical box in the head behind the helm. When I lifted the lid on the box I heard a humming sound, like something was running (like a small electric motor or fan). I couldn't determine where it was coming from. (On a side note, I also checked the electrical connections for the windlass in the anchor locker and they were fine.)

I retried the windlass, and still clicks but no action on the anchor or chain. I tried the windlass switches at the bow and helm with no success. I continued to hear the humming sound when I open the electrical access. Eventually I turned the main house battery switch off and back on. The humming then stopped, but the windlass still didn't work. I waited another 5 minutes or so, and tried again, and to my surprise the windlass started working like a charm, and the humming sound in the electrical access panel didn't return.

While I am thrilled that the windlass eventually worked like a charm after all this, I am also concerned that I have no idea what fixed the issue, and whether it will reoccur.

Has anyone else encountered a similar situation or know what might have been the issue, and whether any follow up attention is needed to either the windlass or any other electrical aspect associated with the humming I heard? I would appreciate any troubleshooting help, or reassurance about this event today. Thank you!
 
Lots of things to check and with intermittent electrical it makes things harder. The clicking sound was most likely the solenoid and the humming could very well have been the solenoid engaged and not releasing. However, if it did engage, the windless should have run. It is difficult to diagnose an issue remotely. The next time this happens have a multimeter handy and with someone at the helm activating the windless. use the piecing probes at the leads going to the motor and make sure you have power voltage there. If not check to make sure all connections to the solenoid are good and power there is good. I am somewhat surprised that the windless may be connected to the house main, it should be on the thruster battery. In any event make sure all battery connections are good as well as connections to the battery switches. If all checks out you could have a bad solenoid.
 
Not uncommon for windlass to be on the house bank. Always used with engine(s) running. No sense drawing down the thruster battery. Similar loads, yes, but the house bank can handle it.


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If the windless is on the house bank then make sure they are at full charge also. As stated, having the engine running is good practice.
 
My opinion is the Contactor box or solenoid box may have internal contact issues. When you activate the windlass at the helm or at the bow switches you are activating the contractor using small gauge wires that carry low amperage current. When the contractor is activated an internal relay or solenoid is energized (clicking noise). When the relay or solenoid is energized the larger gauge wire that is carrying the higher amperage current to operate the windlass motor is connected to the battery. Loose or poorly made connections, low battery voltage or higher than normal amperage draws from the windlass motor can sometimes damage the internal contacts (relay or solenoid ) The symptoms would be relays or solenoid contacts not making contact because of because of repeated arcing and sticking in the close position or stuck. When the solenoid gets stuck it will get battery power from the larger gauge battery lead and will continue to engage the solenoid ( humming noise) it will do this without activating the helm or bow switches. It will do this until the battery 12V is completely disconnected from the Contactor or solenoid box. When you turned the battery switch off you removed all battery voltage from the contractor box and the humming went away. You waited 5 minute which was time for the contractor internal parts to cool down and then turned the battery switch on and tried to operate the windlass again and all seemed to function properly.

I would suspect a marginal contactor box. You should not change it until you have inspected every electrical connector between the battery and the windlass motor. Confirm you have a good battery and it has enough charge when operating the windlass. Also check the amps required to operate the windlass motor with an amp meter. Refer to the windlass owners manual for the motor specifications and compare your results. ( Lower battery capacity is an issue sometimes when the windlass is on a house battery bank. If you have used the house bank all night for 12V accessories and then pull the anchor with a battery at 60% charge you may be operating the windlass motor below its amperage requirements. Each time you activate the solenoid as you pull the anchor the contact points get hot.)

After you have confirmed that all connections are in good condition and the battery is in a full charge state. Order a new contactor for a replacement part and keep it on the boat. Use the original as long as it last. My opinion it is marginal and will eventually fail. If you don't make all the checks and there is an issue with the battery, motor or a connection. The new contactor may possibly be damaged again. Or you may have had all good connections, good battery and motor and just got a marginally built contactor.
 
Nothing on a boat EVER fixes itself. I would continue troubleshooting with the suggestions above at least until you verify the cause. Once the cause is known, you can plan to either fix it proactively, or on the water (hopefully not while drifting).


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BB marine":1hq5dl73 said:
My opinion is the Contactor box or solenoid box may have internal contact issues. When you activate the windlass at the helm or at the bow switches you are activating the contractor using small gauge wires that carry low amperage current. When the contractor is activated an internal relay or solenoid is energized (clicking noise). When the relay or solenoid is energized the larger gauge wire that is carrying the higher amperage current to operate the windlass motor is connected to the battery. Loose or poorly made connections, low battery voltage or higher than normal amperage draws from the windlass motor can sometimes damage the internal contacts (relay or solenoid ) The symptoms would be relays or solenoid contacts not making contact because of because of repeated arcing and sticking in the close position or stuck. When the solenoid gets stuck it will get battery power from the larger gauge battery lead and will continue to engage the solenoid ( humming noise) it will do this without activating the helm or bow switches. It will do this until the battery 12V is completely disconnected from the Contactor or solenoid box. When you turned the battery switch off you removed all battery voltage from the contractor box and the humming went away. You waited 5 minute which was time for the contractor internal parts to cool down and then turned the battery switch on and tried to operate the windlass again and all seemed to function properly.

I would suspect a marginal contactor box. You should not change it until you have inspected every electrical connector between the battery and the windlass motor. Confirm you have a good battery and it has enough charge when operating the windlass. Also check the amps required to operate the windlass motor with an amp meter. Refer to the windlass owners manual for the motor specifications and compare your results. ( Lower battery capacity is an issue sometimes when the windlass is on a house battery bank. If you have used the house bank all night for 12V accessories and then pull the anchor with a battery at 60% charge you may be operating the windlass motor below its amperage requirements. Each time you activate the solenoid as you pull the anchor the contact points get hot.)

After you have confirmed that all connections are in good condition and the battery is in a full charge state. Order a new contactor for a replacement part and keep it on the boat. Use the original as long as it last. My opinion it is marginal and will eventually fail. If you don't make all the checks and there is an issue with the battery, motor or a connection. The new contactor may possibly be damaged again. Or you may have had all good connections, good battery and motor and just got a marginally built contactor.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. Where is the contractor box located? (I am an extreme newbie when it comes to boat repairs!)
 
Should be located in the head electrical box next to the breaker.
 
Funny this is a current topic. I went down to our boat today to grease up the Gypsy on the windlass. While trying to slacken the chain over the gypsy, I had issues with the motor turning. I could hear the contactor behind the helm making up but no rotation of the motor. Eventually it slowly rotated and didn't sound smooth. I checked the electrical connectors at the motor and all was good. After determining that the motor turning is the issue, I removed the side covers for further inspection and found water being released from both sides with corrosion on all gears. I'm not impressed! Last year I serviced the Gypsy to replace the broken plastic flemming and realized the pressure plates where not greased sufficently and caused the gypsy not to stall when needed. Purchased the boat new in 2020 and had ongoing issues with the Lewmar Prosport. Will see if its covered under warranty. Let me know if anyone has updated to a more reliable windlass and how the installation went.

Bruce

https://photos.app.goo.gl/L7sMHdhotwX9DmYdA
 
Rooster5440":2z2tnu9z said:
Funny this is a current topic. I went down to our boat today to grease up the Gypsy on the windlass. While trying to slacken the chain over the gypsy, I had issues with the motor turning. I could hear the contactor behind the helm making up but no rotation of the motor. Eventually it slowly rotated and didn't sound smooth. I checked the electrical connectors at the motor and all was good. After determining that the motor turning is the issue, I removed the side covers for further inspection and found water being released from both sides with corrosion on all gears. I'm not impressed! Last year I serviced the Gypsy to replace the broken plastic flemming and realized the pressure plates where not greased sufficently and caused the gypsy not to stall when needed. Purchased the boat new in 2020 and had ongoing issues with the Lewmar Prosport. Will see if its covered under warranty. Let me know if anyone has updated to a more reliable windlass and how the installation went.

Bruce

https://photos.app.goo.gl/L7sMHdhotwX9DmYdA
Click to expand...

I looked at your photos. This is not the first time I have seen that issue with the Lewmar. The sealing gasket does not work!! The other issue is when the covers are assembled there is a rubber seal that sometimes gets stuckbetween the cover on the windlass housing .( looks like that happened to yours) This also contributes to the water leaking in because the metal surfaces and gasket do not seal properly. The best fix for your windlass is clean everything up inspect the gearing. If after cleaning it and apply new high pressure grease to the assembly it now works properly. Remove all the gasket material from the mating surfaces, clean the surfaces and apply a beed of marine grade clear silicone around the complete perimeter. This will seal the water out. I don't think Lewmar even sells the gaskets any more because they know they don't seal properly!
 
BB marine":3oinqgab said:
Rooster5440":3oinqgab said:
Funny this is a current topic. I went down to our boat today to grease up the Gypsy on the windlass. While trying to slacken the chain over the gypsy, I had issues with the motor turning. I could hear the contactor behind the helm making up but no rotation of the motor. Eventually it slowly rotated and didn't sound smooth. I checked the electrical connectors at the motor and all was good. After determining that the motor turning is the issue, I removed the side covers for further inspection and found water being released from both sides with corrosion on all gears. I'm not impressed! Last year I serviced the Gypsy to replace the broken plastic flemming and realized the pressure plates where not greased sufficently and caused the gypsy not to stall when needed. Purchased the boat new in 2020 and had ongoing issues with the Lewmar Prosport. Will see if its covered under warranty. Let me know if anyone has updated to a more reliable windlass and how the installation went.

Bruce

https://photos.app.goo.gl/L7sMHdhotwX9DmYdA
Click to expand...

I looked at your photos. This is not the first time I have seen that issue with the Lewmar. The sealing gasket does not work!! The other issue is when the covers are assembled there is a rubber seal that sometimes gets stuckbetween the cover on the windlass housing .( looks like that happened to yours) This also contributes to the water leaking in because the metal surfaces and gasket do not seal properly. The best fix for your windlass is clean everything up inspect the gearing. If after cleaning it and apply new high pressure grease to the assembly it now works properly. Remove all the gasket material from the mating surfaces, clean the surfaces and apply a beed of marine grade clear silicone around the complete perimeter. This will seal the water out. I don't think Lewmar even sells the gaskets any more because they know they don't seal properly!
Click to expand...


Very interesting and helpful comments. Does anyone know whether this would be a warranty issue for a 2021 RT -- 23?
 
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