R29 Maintenance

I'm somewhat new to diesel engine maintenance and have previously paid Pacific Power Group to carry out service at the prescribed intervals. But I want to learn to do this (or most of it) on my own so I can save some money and also just learn more about the boat and systems. I've attached the official Service Protocol I got from Volvo, but I paused when I saw that for most of these items, they recommend that a trained technician carry out the service. I figure that can't be true- for example how hard could it be to replace the fuel pre filter and fuel fine filter?

I'm generally pretty good at figuring stuff out, but I'm also wary of biting off more than I can chew, so I wanted to confirm with my fellow 'nuts that this is all doable within reason. I'm at 24 months / 350 hrs on my RT R29 CB. I also need to service the NextGen genset which seems really straightforward. I have the following additional questions:

Oil extractor recommendations?
Is it important to use Volvo Penta OEM lubricants? Or can I use any Volvo VDS-4.5 rated oil?
Do you all replace the impeller at 24 months per the attached protocol?
Any "if I only new x before I did this for the first time" tips?

Lexie said:

I'm somewhat new to diesel engine maintenance and have previously paid Pacific Power Group to carry out service at the prescribed intervals. But I want to learn to do this (or most of it) on my own so I can save some money and also just learn more about the boat and systems. I've attached the official Service Protocol I got from Volvo, but I paused when I saw that for most of these items, they recommend that a trained technician carry out the service. I figure that can't be true- for example how hard could it be to replace the fuel pre filter and fuel fine filter?

I'm generally pretty good at figuring stuff out, but I'm also wary of biting off more than I can chew, so I wanted to confirm with my fellow 'nuts that this is all doable within reason. I'm at 24 months / 350 hrs on my RT R29 CB. I also need to service the NextGen genset which seems really straightforward. I have the following additional questions:

Oil extractor recommendations?
Is it important to use Volvo Penta OEM lubricants? Or can I use any Volvo VDS-4.5 rated oil?
Do you all replace the impeller at 24 months per the attached protocol?
Any "if I only new x before I did this for the first time" tips?

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Oil extractor recommendations?
I've done it 3 different ways: Putting a pump suction tube down the oil dip-stick tube, sucking it out from the top of the oil extraction tube, and finally, putting a pump suction tube ALL the way down to the bottom of the extraction tube. The third method was definitely the most effective but it was tricky getting the stiff plastic pump suction tube down to the bottom of the pan. It has a tendency to hang up somewhere a few inches above. I do this after the engine has been sufficiently warmed up and it is the LAST thing I do when I do a service. It takes a considerable amount of time for all the oil to drain down. Extracting the oil this way is pretty slow but it drains the engine dry. I get at least a half gallon more doing it this way.

Is it important to use Volvo Penta OEM lubricants? Or can I use any Volvo VDS-4.5 rated oil?
I use Volvo filters (an exception for the air filter occasionally) but Chevron Delo 400 Diesel Engine Oil. It is easily obtainable and my last analysis (100 hours on the oil) came back with remaining useful life. I do my service every 100 hours or so. It gets easier the more you do it.

Do you all replace the impeller at 24 months per the attached protocol?
Yes, The first time (200 hrs.) I watched a PPG tech do it and next time I will DYI.

Any "if I only new x before I did this for the first time" tips?
Yes, Pour the oil back in VERY slowly, it seems to take forever before you see a level on the stick. It is very easy to over fill.

I don't have a Gen Set.

There are some videos showing how to do some of this but experience is what makes it easier and faster. I keep a lot of absobent pads handy and a box lined with a heavy duty plastic bag and a pad that I throw all the used stuff in. Keeps it clean and all together. When done, just bag it up and dispose of appropriately.
If you have an internet connection you can even update the engine software if you want to.

You can definitely do the oil and filter changes, the transmission fluid and filter changes, the two fuel filter changes and the impeller changes your self.

I use the West marine oil extraction pump for both the engine oil and the transmission fluid. I get most of the oil out of the engine by pumping through the oil extraction tube but have to tape the top with painters' tape to get good suction.
I use Shell Rotella T4 and every year when I sample it the test results are good. I use the Volvo oil filters and Volvo secondary fuel filter. There are two different oil filters with different part numbers.
I use Lucas Oil Transmission fluid with good test results. Make sure you put the filter on the cap and then insert it into the transmission to avoid it not seating correctly and allowing fluid to bypass the filter.
If you don't replace the impeller (Part # 24139377) every 2 years you run the risk of vanes breaking and getting caught in the cooling system. Every two years is the safest way to avoid that. There is an impeller extraction tool that is worth its weight in gold for removing the old impeller (if there was one for installing the new impeller it would be worth twice its weight in gold but unfortunately that just takes zip ties and patience). Impeller extraction tool is Part # 3843947 from Marine Parts Express (about $20). (Spare bolt kit for impeller cover in the event you drop one of those little bolts into the bilge is part number #21951334 - buy the spares and you probably will be lucky and not drop one and need it - about $25.) Put a towel under the water pump before removing and installing the bolts so you catch them if dropped before they roll under the engine.
I agree that it takes a long time to get the oil to drain and show up on the dip stick. I think the best bet is to fill it short and let it sit for an hour before reliance on the dip stick for measurement.
The Next Gen generator uses straight weight oil, 30 weight, if my memory serves me correctly (I am not at the boat and the owners' manual at this time). The antifreeze used in the generator is the same as O'Reilly Auto Parts brand.

The Ranger Tug "As the Prop Turns" webinars are useful -i.e. I make a video of my 200 hour service which was for a different engine but has some similarities

Go on Youtube and search for the video that shows just how to do each step of the basic annual maintenance. The video is very easy to follow and is titled ChangingOilAndFiltersVolvoPentaEngine and is performed by mechanic Robin Shoop. Knowing nothing about diesel engines, I have done this for the past 6 years on our R31 and saved quite a bit of $$$.

I tell people that I'm mechanically declined, as mechanics do not generally come naturally to me, but I've been doing general car maintenance (basically oil & filter changes and engine peripherals) for maybe 25 years, and I find that the routine annual & bi-annual maintenance on the D4-300 is, in most cases, easier than on any car I've had. The raw water pump is the most challenging part, but it's quite doable with some tips & tricks (just not as easy as everything else).

Here are those videos that JeffreyAC77 mentioned above, which I also found very helpful:

Robin Shoop - Changing Oil and Filters - Volvo Penta (D4-300) Engine

Robin Shoop - General Maintenance Volvo Penta D4-300 Engine

I use the same electric pump assembly Chuck uses in the video for both the engine oil extraction, and the reverse gear oil extraction (different hoses/tubes, of course). Before next year's oil changes, I plan to retrofit with hydraulic quick disconnect fittings to be able to change the hoses/tubes easier and with even less mess between the engine and reverse gear oil changes. I found that the positive and negative 12 VDC connection points on the bottom of the engine block Chuck uses in the video (for the oil extractor pump motor) are a difficult to access, so I just use the 12 VDC connections to the Kisae inverter/charger in the starboard lazarette, which works great.

The raw water impeller can be a little tricky to change, but here is a Tugnuts discussion on some tips & tricks.

In my experience, I prefer to remove the on-engine fuel filter first to get better access to the six bolts on the raw water pump. I also zip tie some hoses & wire loom out of the way. The majority of the effort for me has been getting the old impeller out, but I have not yet tried the impeller extraction tool mentioned by Todd above, and I will definitely buy & try this when I change the oil next year; if it works well, I will cry tears of joy. When it comes time to install the new impeller, I find that using a stiff spring clamp to hold the flanges of the water pump together is very helpful in getting the first few bolts reinstalled.

Here are some notes on the D4 reverse gear oil extraction techniques:

Good luck, and let us know how it goes, and if you come up with any new tips & tricks!

-Mike

This has been super helpful- I replaced the engine oil and oil filters, and next I'll do the fuel filters and impeller, followed by transmission oil/filter, and lastly genset oil/filter. I'm very happy I decided to do all of this myself- thanks to you all.