29s propane issue

Hi,
Have a 2016 29S. Went to use the stove today, and getting no gas to it. Tank 3/4 full, solenoid switch light on, but didn't “click” as usual when turned on. Not sure how to trouble-shoot. Suggestions?
Thanks!
-David

Can you light it with a match? If you light it with a match, will it stay lit?

If you can’t get any spark, it sounds like the lighter mechanism is not working. If it won’t stay lit, might be a safety thermocouple.

If you can’t get gas to flow, perhaps the solenoid that controls propane flow is bad?

Just for grins, if you have two tanks, try the other tank (and do check that someone didn’t turn off the valve at the tank). If the tank gauge is malfunctioning, perhaps it’s empty. I had a bad regulator/indicator gauge which resulted in an unexpected empty tank after the propane leaked from the busted regulator.

If your typical solenoid clicking is missing, either the solenoid has failed, a fairly frequent occurrence, or the switch and detector has failed, also a common occurrence.

I would start by opening the connection to the solenoid, turning on the gas switch, and see if power is going to the solenoid.

If power is present, you must change the solenoid - not a hard task, but be very sure you leak test after the new one is installed. You can either use soapy water on the joint, or insert a pressure gauge (about $20 at Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Propane-Ba...1&sr=8-4&keywords=propane+pressure+test+gauge). If the pressure drops when the gas switch is off and the propane tank is off, you probably have a leak.

If no power is present, check the fuse. It seldom fails.

The usual suspect is the gas switch itself. Most have a detector to see in carbon-monoxide (CO) is present and automatically shut down the propane if any is detected. These detectors detect CO when none is really present and shut down the gas flow. Often cleaning the detector with a vacuum cleaner or air will fix it. If not, repair of the swith is futile - just put in a new one.

I doubt it is the ignitor - if the gas is flowing you will smell even a small quantity.

There is a slim chance your propane tank valve is not working. The leak detector mentioned above will show you that. Leak detection is an essential component of any safe boating propane system. Spend the $20 and install it permanently on your tank just to be safe.

There can also be an issue with the tank itself. Sometimes the new safety valve they installed inside the tanks jamb or are defective and will not allow fuel to be delivered. I would remove the tank and hook it up to a standard grill and see if it fires up. If it does then start checking electrical issues. Remember, when troubleshooting always start at the source and work your way back. It could be the solenoid without the click, but I would make sure the tank is not defective first.

Not sure if your starter button has a battery inside of it or not, we had one on our R27 and it had to be replaced on a regular basis. If yours does have a battery this may be the issue. Whatever you find please report back to Tugnuts so we can learn from your experience.

Jim F

We also have a 2016 R-29S. If we have not used the propane for a while it sometimes takes a while to prime. Open all the burners on stove top to accelerate the priming. Also you have two propane tanks try changing to the other tank assuming they both have propane. This will help identify a faulty valve as noted by Mike from Knotflying.

Great input!
Tanks have gas, (checked on bbq with both) and it’s not the igniter. To check the solenoid do I just unscrew and pop off the switch? I removed the screws, but it’s not budging and I do t want to force it.

A propane lesion I learned this past summer might help.

I ran out of gas while cooking. I changed the cylinder and turned on the cylinder valve and heard a 'click', but no gas got to the stove.

After lots of head scratching and a phone call to a propane dealer, I learned the secret.

The newer cylinders have a safety valve inside the outlet. If you turn on an unconnected cylinder, the safety pops and stops the gas from coming out. The same thing can happen if the propane system in the boat is empty and the full cylinder valve is opened fast.

Inside the outlet of the cylinder, in the center, below the threads, is a metal ring or disc. That is the safety valve. To reset, first turn off the valve. Then push the valve down (or in) into the outlet with a tool. I used a hex key, but anything not sharp should work. If successful, the safety will stay down/in. Then hook up the cylinder, turn off the electric propane control (solenoid) and slowly open the cylinder valve.

I was told that the cylinders have been using this safety valve for many years now, but I did not know about it.

So my LPG controller just blew 2x 1 amp fuses. Sounds like the controller is bad? Anyone else come across this?

Do you mean the solenoid? If so, the leads should unplug. Reinstall fuse and put voltmeter on the leads and turn on switch. See if you get power and no short. If all checks out then it is the solenoid. They are readily available on line.