IdleUp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2008
- Messages
- 50
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-248 C
- Vessel Name
- Linda Sue
One thing about small boats – no matter how many receptacles there are, you’ll always need another in a different place. Such is the case of my Ranger 25. My main motorvation for the upgrade was to add a receptacle in the rear bilge area for my BoatSafe heater or whatever else comes up like charging an Aux. battery, etc. For a location, I chose the starboard hatch where it could easily be reached.
Power Panel - After snaking a few lengths of wire both fore and aft, the 110v power panel is removed by just four screws. Make sure the boat is “Unplugged” before you remove the panel and seek qualified help if your not keen with wiring or working with 110 volts. On my panel, the wiring was spread out more than the opening, so I had to “jimmy” the panel around a bit to get it out.
On my power panel, the lower right bank of breakers had an extra non-used breaker installed. I dedicated that one breaker to my Boatsafe heater plug in the bilge. This would allow me to easily turn it on and off from the helm. For the remaining two receptacles, I tapped into, or piggy backed, two other breakers marked "receptacles" on the panel. I mounted both the cockpit and bilge receptacles with two outdoor “plastic” boxes with just a good grade of double stick tape. I then sealed the box openings with silicon. I used to hate running a cord out the rear door every time I needed power. I find myself using the cockpit plug quite often for plugging in tools, lights, and my small vacuum, for sucking trash from the hatch recesses and bilge area.
Bunk Area - Since I had the power panel out, I decided to also put a needed plug in the forward bunk area, for plugging in a TV, fan, or whatever. I ran the wire up over the bulkhead so the wire is totally hidden. The receptacle box I used is designed for surface mount and can be found in any electrical supply house. It makes for an easy installation by just screwing the base down then attaching the receptacle & cover.
Please note; if you would like to conform to ABYC safety practices, you should do the install with a recommended type marine grade stranded wire.
Enjoy – Mike Mas
Image showing the 100V panel removed, prior to making the connections. Make certain you're unplugged before removing the panel and while working on it. If you’re not sure, get qualified help!
Cable was run over bulkhead and directly into the panel area.
Close-up of the flush mount rec. box, in the bunk area.
Plug for the BoatSafe heater on the starboard side by the Smartcraft module. This can be used for charging extra batteries or whatever. I used ground fault breakers on both the outdoor boxes.
Close up of the plastic outdoor type box - I ran the Romex in the box then sealed the inlet with silicon.
Plug is barely visible from the cockpit area yet available when needed.
BoatSafe heater sits neatly along the port side of the engine.
Power Panel - After snaking a few lengths of wire both fore and aft, the 110v power panel is removed by just four screws. Make sure the boat is “Unplugged” before you remove the panel and seek qualified help if your not keen with wiring or working with 110 volts. On my panel, the wiring was spread out more than the opening, so I had to “jimmy” the panel around a bit to get it out.
On my power panel, the lower right bank of breakers had an extra non-used breaker installed. I dedicated that one breaker to my Boatsafe heater plug in the bilge. This would allow me to easily turn it on and off from the helm. For the remaining two receptacles, I tapped into, or piggy backed, two other breakers marked "receptacles" on the panel. I mounted both the cockpit and bilge receptacles with two outdoor “plastic” boxes with just a good grade of double stick tape. I then sealed the box openings with silicon. I used to hate running a cord out the rear door every time I needed power. I find myself using the cockpit plug quite often for plugging in tools, lights, and my small vacuum, for sucking trash from the hatch recesses and bilge area.
Bunk Area - Since I had the power panel out, I decided to also put a needed plug in the forward bunk area, for plugging in a TV, fan, or whatever. I ran the wire up over the bulkhead so the wire is totally hidden. The receptacle box I used is designed for surface mount and can be found in any electrical supply house. It makes for an easy installation by just screwing the base down then attaching the receptacle & cover.
Please note; if you would like to conform to ABYC safety practices, you should do the install with a recommended type marine grade stranded wire.
Enjoy – Mike Mas
Image showing the 100V panel removed, prior to making the connections. Make certain you're unplugged before removing the panel and while working on it. If you’re not sure, get qualified help!
Cable was run over bulkhead and directly into the panel area.
Close-up of the flush mount rec. box, in the bunk area.
Plug for the BoatSafe heater on the starboard side by the Smartcraft module. This can be used for charging extra batteries or whatever. I used ground fault breakers on both the outdoor boxes.
Close up of the plastic outdoor type box - I ran the Romex in the box then sealed the inlet with silicon.
Plug is barely visible from the cockpit area yet available when needed.
BoatSafe heater sits neatly along the port side of the engine.