2013 r27 yanmar impeller

[DLS]

Anyone ever mod their r27 yanmar to facilitate impeller replacement?

Having the impeller/ raw water pump on the fore end of the engine makes for an unpleasant difficult task to replace the impeller!

 

[tlkenyon]

In you think THAT is unpleasant, just wait till you get to do the stern thruster shear pin!! 😱

TK

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Several owners have modified the step to gain better access to the impeller on R27 and or R25's. On the home page of Tugnuts go to the search button on the left side of the page. After clicking on this type in "R27 impeller access" on the top line and you'll come up with many discussions about impeller access, some that include modification. Once you find what you like maybe the poster put up some photo's in there album, so you can get an even better idea.

Good luck,

Jim F

 

[Craig]

I just completed my impeller replacement on my Yanmar in our R29. That forward location required the removal and install to be completed on my stomach which was probably the worst of it. I had read a prior post about bump the started to get the tension belt off and on for the install, I didn't like that idea and found a tension/serpentine belt tool at Napa for 6.29! Worked like a charm (part#BK776-9166). Hope that helps


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[MissJill]

Roger that - had to enlist my 19 yr old grandson (longer arms and stronger) to assist the birth and refit of a new stern thruster. The maker said the internals were corroded due to water damage.
Thought the rubber seal was supposed to prevent that!! I have now refitted the aft cockpit seat hatch with a big rubber mat.

 

[tlkenyon]

I have always wondered about the reports of water damage to the motor. The following is a quote from the Imtra Sidepower website (emphasis is mine)

"To provide reliable and safe thruster installations in more boats, we offer modified versions of our DC electric thrusters in watertight housings for use in stern and other locations that may get wet or be exposed to gasoline fumes. These thrusters are fully ignition protected (ISO 8846) for use in boats with gasoline engines.

They have a hermetically sealed composite housing around all electric parts. This provides the ignition protection as no gasoline fumes can enter and be ignited by sparks.

The other advantage is that the electric parts that could be damaged by water are also covered and protected, making these thrusters the ideal choice for other stern thruster installations where it is difficult to ensure that the thruster will always remain dry."

What gives...if there is water damage, that means the water got in past the "IP" seals, and that maybe the
"IP" provisions are not adequate???

TK

 

[MissJill]

Craig -
THX for the post re the impeller changeout - What engine was involved? My R27 has the 4BY180 yanmar which houses the waterpump and belt lower front center of the engine.
How did you get the false bulkhead out (starbrite FBG cover about 8 in height just behind the fuel tank top). Mine (the cover) appears to extend through the aft port vertical wall (inside the storage/berth on the R-27). That 'wall' houses an AC receptacle, holding brackets for the interior seat strut and is fabric covered. Looks like that wall is in two pieces with retractable 'desk' between the lower and upper wall.
I have taken all the screws out that afixes the inside cover and the lower portion of the aformentioned wall. Can't budge it.
Before I take a crowbar to it - what should I be doing and what worked for you??

Appreciate you help.

John Kelly
Miss Jilly

 

[Red Raven]

Hi John,

Our R27 had the same structure you describe even though we have the Volvo engine. After you are sure you have removed all the screws from the lower wall panel you should be able to slip a screw driver or blade behind the wall and pry it out. You can also push it out from behind after you remove the panel under the step.

After going through this process twice I decided that was enough and cut the starboard panel into three pieces. One piece has the carpet on it and extends into the cave and stays put so the wall no longer needs to be removed. The other two pieces are from the remaining section with insulation on it that sits in front of the engine. I cut it in half with a bevel to facilitate removing it through the step access opening. I think I had to add a couple of additional screws to secure it now that it was in two pieces and no longer attached to the back of the cave wall piece. Also, in our case we have a Webasto diesel heater that includes a fuel pump mounted to one of these pieces of Starboard. I added an electrical disconnect (butt connectors) so that I could remove the pump through the step opening as well. Now I can change the impeller without removing everything from the cave and without removing the cave wall.

Also as Jim states, you may want to enlarge the opening under the step if it hasn't been done already. The newer models like ours have a removeable teak panel that pretty much opens the whole front the the step. Some folks have made the whole step removeable.

Curt

 

[Brian B]

There are pics in my photo album of the modification I made to the step. Compared to how it was I can have a party under that step now.

 

[knotflying]

I did a couple of things that make access much easier: A) I did the same as Brian B and widened the opening. B) I cut the interior access panel that slides out into three pieces. One spot was right at the port side centering the cut on the removable monkey fur panel with the 110v outlet and then at the center horizontally between the port and starboard side.

I can now remove each half out of the trap door area without having to remove anything from the cave since I do not have to slide that big panel sideways and remove the monkey fur panel. Also, I have seen many with the Wabasto pump mounted right in front of the access panel. DUH! What were they thinking?? My pump is installed below the stove. Then again mine was installed after market. In any event I would move that pump or at the very least install some type of quick disconnect or valves so you can get it out of the way when doing work.