2015 C-28 showing signs of rust

boaterjoe

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
81
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 S
Vessel Name
Flying Turtle
I have noticed that several washers, bolts, screws, and other fittings are rusting quite badly in less than two years. In some places it is minor, in other places it is quite extensive. I wonder if it is the type of stainless steel that the factory uses (is it less than 100% stainless). This is particularly true with washers on the topside. Has anyone else reported or noticed this rust? I will be implementing a replacement program for all topside fittings this year.
Joe
Flying Turtle C-28
Bainbridge Island, WA
 
My suspicion is that Ranger's suppliers have quietly switched to a lower grade of stainless steel - such as substituting 304 for 316.
 
pretty much all stainless will rust if left to stand in stagnant water without oxygen. its crevatic corrosion.
salt water accelerates it. thoroughly wash down with fresh after use. remove opportunities for water to stay stuck in cavities in fittings, use corrosion-x.
 
Joe, We are experiencing the same thing on our 2016 C-26. I was going to ask what we can do to minimize this. We cruise in the Charleston, SC area and we dry stack our boat. We wash the topsides down before hauling and the marina crew washes the hull before they put her back in the stack.
 
crevatic corrosion will rust any stainless.

you have to avoid standing water on stainless. Its access to the air that provides the rust protection
 
Re: 2015 C-28 showing signs of rust
New postby Cutwater28GG on Fri Aug 04, 2017 12:54 pm

crevatic corrosion will rust any stainless.

you have to avoid standing water on stainless. Its access to the air that provides the rust protection/quote]

My worst rusting area are the washers on top of the C-28. I need to replace them soon with stainless washers. I don't see any standing water on the rooftop.
 
Using a small brush such as a toothbrush use ON/OFF solution and gentle brush the rusting areas. I've watched RT do this on their trade-in boats and it does a good job IMO.
 
What is ON/OFF solution ? Any more info on this stuff? Thanks much.
 
timdelta":3559grl2 said:
What is ON/OFF solution ? Any more info on this stuff? Thanks much.

I'm afraid I'm at a loss. When at the Ranger Tugs factory a few weeks ago I noticed a person using a small brush and some bottle of liquid he sprayed on chrome parts that were brownish looking to brush the brown markings off. I asked what was in the bottle and was told it was ON/OFF.

I will ask RT again when I next have the chance and post back what they say ON/OFF is.

What I can say is that the brown stuff was being removed without too much ado. 😱
 
We have some of the rust stains around the swim platform rail mounts on our 2017. Nothing unusual as noted by others. I have had the same experience on all my other new boats from Boston Whaler to C-Dory. I use FSR (Fibreglass Stain Remover) which is like a blue gel. Should be available from most marine stores including WM. My contacts in the boat business tell me I could use muriatic acid instead but I prefer the gel. I use a soft paint brush and the stains disappear quite quickly if you don't let them get too established. Rinse well and dry off afterward. This stuff is good for all sorts of stains.

What I have found is that after a couple of years the stains get less frequent and even stop. Whatever is leaching out must eventually be exhausted.

Hope this helps.
 
On & Off is a hull and bottom cleaner by Marykate. I have seen it at West Marine or just Google it and purchase on line. I find another approach to removing rust stains from stainless and fiberglass is to use a fiberglass cleaner wax with a soft tooth brush. This approach provides some protection for future rusting. Another product I have used is Bartender's Friend. This product can be purchased at Wal Mart. Once the rust is removed make sure you rinse the boat well with fresh water after use prior to putting it away and any future rusting will be minimal. Another problem you may be having is with the yard rinsing the hull once the boat is removed from the water. They will be rinsing from below and some splashing of the rinsed salt water may be landing top sides. To minimize this make sure you also rinse the hull while the boat is in the water.

Hope this helps.
 
dclagett: Thanks for that info.... appreciated. 🙂

If you order this product online and have it shipped to your doorstep there will be a HAZMAT handling fee applied. :roll: It's simply nasty stuff. :shock:
 
baz":3n5pl892 said:
dclagett: Thanks for that info.... appreciated. 🙂

If you order this product online and have it shipped to your doorstep there will be a HAZMAT handling fee applied. :roll: It's simply nasty stuff. :shock:

Do not breathe in the fumes of this product! I did once and it sent me into a coughing fit.
Collonite 850 Metal Wax will remove the stains and protect the metal for months. 3 months after I have used it and the stains have not re-appeared and the stainless still has a bright shine. According to the bottle it can also be used on electrical connections.
 
For the rust stains I have found a magic eraser works well. No chemicals needed! Just clean fresh water and a little rubbing.

I often find that even when I think I have adequately rinsed the boat with fresh water a careful check shows salt crystals on the undersides of the rails and in cracks and crevices. I have found an extra thorough fresh water rinse, a quick rub with the magic eraser to get any stain buildup, towel dry, and then wax with Collinite 850 is the best preventative solution.
 
As someone already pointed out, stainless, and particularly 304 or worse any 400 grade stainless, will rust cosmetically if it stays wet. The reason that deck fittings "bleed" is due to capillary action that draws water into crevices(therefore the crevice corrosion) and retains it. Even when the surface of the deck/cabin are dry, there is water hiding in those tight spaces under washers etc. Water can stay in there for days/weeks when everything appears to be dry. Particularly in humid climates the water is replenished every day simply from morning dew. We're talking miniscule amounts of water but enough to keep the surface of the steel wet.

Commonly purchased fasteners are typically 304 stainless because it is less expensive than 316. Anything that is labeled "marine" should be 316 assuming it comes from a reputable manufacturer/distributor. Anyone contemplating replacing deck hardware to eliminate the rust needs to make sure they are getting 316ss hardware otherwise it is a waste of time.

In most cases the bleeding fittings are not functionally compromised. Possible exceptions are any fittings that are under continuous high loads. In those cases stress corrosion cracking can occur. Unfortunately bolts that are installed with high torque levels fit this description. The whole point of torque is to ensure that the bolt is to load/stretch the bolt(i.e. to put it in stress). For that reason fasteners on deck hardware should not be torqued any more than is necessary.
 
I have a 2012 tug it had one year in salt water and has been in fresh ever since. The boat is only in the water for 4 1/2 months of the year. Last year 2016 I had a water leak it took some time to find it and when I did it was the upper bolts holding the swim platform. Most of them had rusted rate off or when I touched then they fell off. I am not impressed with this and had to replace all of them. Only two out of twelve where any good
 
It might just be cosmetic to the surface (even the best stainless will pick up surface rust when exposed to iron oxide). Bras so, a common metal cleaning acid usually strips it off with just a wipe. It is an acid so protect eyes skin etc. give it a try.
 
On & Off is amazing stuff. I brush it on with a cheap paintbrush, let it set a minute and hose off. No rubbing and the rust is gone. You can buy it from Amazon for a lot less than West Marine charges, and there is no hazmat shipping fee.
 
The factory can comment on 304 vs 316 0n deck hardware. My friend has a Mainship Pilot with little rust compares to my 2011 R29. Don't recall the rust on my 30 year old Hunter sailboat either. Suggest Ranger uses 316 screws and at least weld 304 fittings with a 316 welding rod. Welding degraded stainless corrosion resistance. My rails seem fine but the welds seem to rust. Or just use 316 hardware Ranger!
 
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