21EC and Yanmar 3YM30 - some lessons

Fisho

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 11, 2018
Messages
75
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C SE
Hull Identification Number
USFMLT2106F
Vessel Name
KHUNYAI
MMSI Number
503076010
I purchased my 2012 21EC a few months ago and have enjoyed learning how to use and maintain it. There have been lots of helpful tips on TugNuts but a few of my key take lessons are below. I just want to repay the great advice I have found on Tugnuts.

1. The Yanmar Manual says to take the engine to near maximum revs a couple of times after a trip while moored. I could not work out how to do this. I assume most owners know how to do this but the Manual was not clear? Anyway, there is a button on the throttle lever that must be pushed in to disengage the clutch. Once pushed in you can increase the revs without the prop turning. Sorry, most owners probably knew this but it was new to me.
2. When purchased the engine had 175 hours. While I did all the normal servicing of oils, filters etc I did not take off the U shaped exhaust manifold. The boat was running ok so I was happy to skip it. BIG MISTAKE. At 240 hours I did take the exhaust and sea water mixer off by disconnecting the hoses and taking it off the heat exchanger. Luckily I had bought some spare manifold gaskets! Anyway where the sea water enters the manifold through the 1/2 inch socket, it was almost completely blocked. Also the inside of the manifold and mixer was full of hardened exhaust stuff. There seemed to be some corrosion? It was a mess. I suspect the previous owner had not followed the manual and raced the engine often and just cruised slowly. I discussed this with my local slipway owner and his advice to maintain small marine diesels is to try and kill them! Which of course you can’t. Hard work and medium to high revs is the best thing for them. I have now replaced the manifold with a superb aftermarket SS polished exhaust and U shaped sea water mixer. I also replaced the hoses. Easy to fit. All good.
3. After spending a couple of nights anchored in windy conditions, I realised the standard anchor is not very good. After being dragged during the night and nearly running aground, I investigated anchors and anchoring. A really big deal and a lot to learn. Result is a 6kg ROCNA with a 4kg ROCNA at the rear if I want to hold position and fish. Works a treat.
4. My boat was built before RT fitted a table at the rear on the engine compartment. I asked for advice on Tugnuts and the LAGUN mount from Sweden was suggested. Amazing. Much better than expected. Thanks.
5. The other area I have learnt a great deal is maintaining the fibreglass finish and repairing the inevitable little dents and scratches. A huge topic that I assume most RT owners are across. But there is a lot to learn.
6. The Speedseal cover for the impeller is magic!
7. I replaced the fuel gauge sender in the diesel tank since it was not working. Now works a treat. Very happy. Of course I can also raise the rear seat cover and look at the level but it is good to check on the gauge while cruising and know it is reasonably accurate.
8. Extended the double birth by placing a sturdy ice box that is the right height. With foam and a piece of memory foam on top I have extended the bed significantly. Really, a big deal for my wife and me. Great.
9. I noted a couple of references to closing the sea cock before pulling the boat out on the trailer. I did not really appreciate how important this is, otherwise the system drains and takes some time to suck water back into the system. Important for flushing the engine while out of the water. Thanks. Important!
10. I read one reference to a 21EC owner putting lead ballast in the keel through the little round hatch that turns on the salt water cock. No other owners commented? Anyway I poured some lead ingots and placed about 30+kgs in the keel wrapped in old rubber tyre tubes to stop them moving about or rubbing. Wow. A really noticeable improvement in stability. Great suggestion. On the other hand not sure I want to put boat and trailer over a weigh bridge?
11. I followed the advice on Tugnuts to service the dual horns. Turns out only one was working! Now sounds like a real tug!
12. For those owners that don’t have a good anchor winch operated from inside the cabin, they don’t know what they are missing. Right up there with an autopilot as an essential addition.
13. Finally removed the KENYON metho stove. Too slow and not very hot. Covered hole with marine ply stained the same colour as the other woodwork. Replaced with a small gas stove that can also be used outside on the engine cover. Magic! Installed a CO monitor in the cabin.
14. Finally worked out the wiring for bilge pump, sensor and alarm. Added an extra bilge pump for safety on separate circuit. Hope I won’t need it!

I apologise if some of this is common knowledge to most owners but these are a few things I have learnt over last few months. Cheers and thanks.
 
6. The Speedseal cover for the impeller is magic!

I've seen the speedseal mentioned in several post before. Are there other benefits than being quicker to remove? Is there an increase in impeller life?
 
I went to speedseal website a while back, and found a business closure notice. Does anyone know if the product line has been picked up by someone else? Is there a back stock somewhere? I need to replace my impeller in the spring and would like to do a Speedseal Life with the Teflon washers.

Regarding Fisho post: Congrats on your 21 EC learning curve.....sounds like you have a good handle on it....

Curious... which SS exhaust elbow did you use ??
 
Here’s an additional service to consider if you’re running your Tug in salt water. Try running BARNACLE BUSTER thru your water intake system once a year or at the end of your boating season. This stuff is fantastic for removing build up in the exhaust system. I was amazed at just how much crud came out of the exhaust port after the system was “pickled”for 2-3 hours. Try it, you’ll like it.
CaptnKarl
 
Sorry for late reply re Speedseal and SS Mixing Elbow

First, the advantages as promoted by Speedseal are that your impeller will last much longer since it is spinning on a Teflon washer. Also if your seawater inlet gets blocked for some reason it will take a lot longer for the impeller to disintegrate. But for me the best advantage is that it is very easy to take off the impeller cover with no tools and either check the condition of the impeller or replace it. Literally minutes. Great product.

Second, I understand the company making Speedseal has ceased trading. I don’t know whether anyone has picked up the product. However I am in Australia and found one importer who had a bunch so I bought a spare. I would think other importers would have them in stock since they only ceased trading a couple of months ago?

Third, I used the SS mixing elbow from HDI Marine (hdimarine.net). Came as a kit. Identical to YANMAR but SS and seems much better quality. Also significantly cheaper than the YANMAR replacement. The only kit they had was a highly polished elbow that looks great if you are into looking at engines. The place I bought it emphasised it was not a replacement but an upgrade in quality. Time will tell.

Interesting to see other RTs have also investigated ballast to improve stability. It seems to have made a noticeable difference to my 21EC.

I was very interested in the comment about using Barnacle Buster to clean out the sea water system and I assume particularly the heat exchanger and exhaust mixing elbow. Reading about it, it seems a great product. I would be very interested how you would get the Barnacle Buster solution into the system for the required 4-6 hours? For the mixing elbow easy to take it off and soak it. I suppose for the heat exchanger, pump and hoses etc you need to take boat out of the water, drain the system, remove the impeller but replace the cover, close the sea cock and fill up the system with a high hose and funnel until it starts flowing out the hose off the heat exchanger? But it looks like the way to go to clean the system once a year.
 
Fisho:

The Teflon washer in the Speedseal Life kit would seem to be a significant benefit for friction reduction. Hard to imagine that some accessory manufacturer has not grabbed this given the number of Yanmars worldwide. Other applications would seem obvious. I am checking suppliers for old stock.

The HDI product line is great. SS at less than OEM price....wow.

To answer your question on getting Barnacle Buster into the system with the boat in the water. I have a T-fitting in the raw water supply line along the port side of the engine. It is in the line coming from the seacock for raw water intake. The valve is similar to those available in Prestone AF antifreeze flush kits that comes with several various size Tees...kit price around 5 bucks. Here in the north, I use this port to winterize with anti-freeze .....I would imagine that Barnacle Buster could be introduced the same way. Just close the seacock.... attach a piece of garden hose to the Tee .....submerge the end in a bucket of Baranacle mix......start the engine...keep the bucket supplied...and watch for the mix to start to exit the exhaust port. Perhaps some colored dye in the mix would help determine when the mix has completely circulated. Just as a guideline, I generally use Four or Five gallons of antifreeze for complete winterizing....some guys say 2 is plenty.....but antifreeze is cheaper than a new block.
 
Thanks for advice on introducing Barnacle Buster to engine. I assume once it is fully in system let it sit for a couple of hours to do its magic then flush out. I will try it. Cheers, Fisho.
 
Not having used Barnacle Buster myself, I'll let someone else determine the proper time to be in the system.

Oh...and thinking about the Tee in the raw water line(boat is in winter lay up).....the line is on the starboard side at bottom of the engine...not the port side....
 
I let the barnacle buster “pickle”in the raw water exhaust for about 3 hours. I was amazed at how much crud was expelled after starting when I flushed the engine with fresh water.
Karl
 
Thanks for advice. Really helpful, cheers, Fisho
 
Hello Fisho and thank you so much for all these valuable tips and sharing your experience thus far. Can you tell us where you installed that extra bilge pump?
 
She has not yet sold.


Stuart Bell
Ranger 25: Shearwater
(561) 352-1796
 
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