302 pod pump fuse near house batteries?

[Rocky Lou]

I'm at a loss to find the 7.5 amp fuse for the pod bilge pump. I'm told it's near the house batteries but I don't see any 7 1/2 amp fuse coming off of that battery bank. My 302c LE has four batteries for house on the port side. Anyone know how to find that fuse?

 

[Mike and Sarah]

Not sure if this will help but I’m pretty sure the bilge pump fuses are run off the engine or thruster batteries on out RT31.
Might be similar on your 302 Cutwater. Worth looking at .

 

[Rocky Lou]

Thanks, I'll post after I find the fuse.

 

[Genuine Drift]

The pod pump fuse runs off the engine battery fuse block which is located in the quarter berth behind the wooden hatch.

 

[Rocky Lou]

Thanks, I confirmed that the pod pump fuse that runs off the engine battery fuse block which is located in the quarter berth behind the wooden hatch is good. I was told there was another in-line fuse, but checking with the factory that is not the case. I am at a loss. I've changed to a new pump, a new switch (on Blue Sea 3 switch panel), shorted the wires to bypass the circuit breaker and I can't see what would be bad with the wiring. The switch continues to turn on the pump manually, but the float switch will not activate… UGH

I thought I had a solution for these Rule 27SA pumps, that are unreliable, by carrying a spare and changing them. But, now even that has failed. My boat has 4 of them.

 

[Mike and Sarah]

One more note. I realize the Cutwater and RT are built in different factories, but it Might be worth a look. On our R31 the forward and aft bilge pump fuses were labeled wrong. Forward labeled fuse was for aft pump and aft labeled fuse was for forward pump. We rewrote with a sharpy which they were for.
We also had other fuses mis labeled for the downrigger plugs and the 12volt plug in the rear lazarettes. Same thing we relabeled. No need to change the wiring as both circuits were the same size.

 

[Rocky Lou]

One more note. I realize the Cutwater and RT are built in different factories, but it Might be worth a look. On our R31 the forward and aft bilge pump fuses were labeled wrong. Forward labeled fuse was for aft pump and aft labeled fuse was for forward pump. We rewrote with a sharpy which they were for.
We also had other fuses mis labeled for the downrigger plugs and the 12volt plug in the rear lazarettes. Same thing we relabeled. No need to change the wiring as both circuits were the same size.

Thanks, I actually checked continuity on every panel fuse on the boat, twice 🙂

Today was my final strike out, and I'm gonna wait till a friend, who maintains jet engines for a living, gets back from Thanksgiving holiday and have him fix it. My guess it's the wiring as there is definitely power going into the switch. However, when I measure power on the brown wire at the pump, there is none. Since all the wiring is a hairball, I'm not touching it.

 

[Rocky Lou]

Hooooooray, the float switch auto on is working thanks to a couple hours work from my friend. The tough part was listening to a lot of awful language directed at the design of the engine pod that has four sets of wire connections inside the pod and access thru 3 tiny deck plate holes. After a great deal of troubleshooting, he located the faulty heat sealed connector pictured here: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0df7aI1 ... 3TZ3JCc1fg.

It seems that such a critical pump would have a far better access.

 

[nzfisher]

Yes, the wiring is a boggle. Good work to find the problem.