Hey all, I am a new owner of a 2013 R-25 sc . I feel like ranting about the previous owner's dishonesty but will choose instead to stick to the technical. The AC does not work with either shore power or generator. I turn on the AC breaker at the helm and the AC control on the port side wall entering the V-berth shows a power on light but is otherwise unresponsive, ie. none of the buttons work. Does someone know where the 20 amp. AC fuse is? Any other suggestions? I love this boat, I am upgrading from 25 years owning a 27 ft. Harkers Island wooden boat and it is a pleasure to operate. I just need to iron out the details (like the washdown pump that was plumbed backwards). First post for me
Air Conditioning woes.
- Thread starter misstina
- Start date
Matty
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2018
- Messages
- 462
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Vessel Name
- IN THE FALL (2018)
I think if you are seeing the power on button you are getting power (power for a/c control comes from the a/c wiring box) so not sure it would be a fuse issue. Having said that there have been a number of variations of wiring and a/c models installed on the boats over the years. Do you know what brand and model a/c unit? Does water come out the side of the boat (meaning pump is getting power and operting correctly). It is my understanding the pump comes on first, then fan, then compressor. I have been having an issue with my a/c so I direct wired the pump to be sure it is functioning. Turns out it is so I have a different issue.
Do you know if it ran when you were negotiating the purchase? Or is this one of the "prior owner" issues?
Do you know if it ran when you were negotiating the purchase? Or is this one of the "prior owner" issues?
Brian B
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2012
- Messages
- 1,117
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-26
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLR2512L910
- Non-Fluid Motion Model
- Sold in 2021
- Vessel Name
- GANSETT RANGER (2010) Yanmar 4BY2-150
The basics are:
Seacock open, ensure good water flow by removing the plastic cover on A/C strainer. Clean the strainer, there is a small opening around the inside radius of the strainer. Sometimes weed can get trapped in there. I use an ice pick to clean it out.
The A/C pump may need to be primed. If it doesn’t have water flow the A/C will not come on.
The control panel has power so I doubt it’s a power issue.
Are you getting any “P” codes on the A/C display?
Seacock open, ensure good water flow by removing the plastic cover on A/C strainer. Clean the strainer, there is a small opening around the inside radius of the strainer. Sometimes weed can get trapped in there. I use an ice pick to clean it out.
The A/C pump may need to be primed. If it doesn’t have water flow the A/C will not come on.
The control panel has power so I doubt it’s a power issue.
Are you getting any “P” codes on the A/C display?
scross
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2015
- Messages
- 2,037
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLC2831A717
- Vessel Name
- R-25 Classic - Sold
- MMSI Number
- 367719470
Welcome to the group!
The systems on our boats can require multiple steps to get operational and to shut down properly. Until you get really familiar with all the process weirdness I’d recommend patience. And when you are stumped re-reading the manual can be helpful.
When I first got our 25 Classic I thought the windlass had died. Worked fine during the survey but I couldn’t get it to power up. Turns out the power to the windlass is tied to the rotary thruster power switch in the rear port cockpit locker. A simple thing but who would have guessed?
Took us a whole season to get the basic processes down pat and, after 5 seasons now, we are still learning a few tricks!
Good luck!
The systems on our boats can require multiple steps to get operational and to shut down properly. Until you get really familiar with all the process weirdness I’d recommend patience. And when you are stumped re-reading the manual can be helpful.
When I first got our 25 Classic I thought the windlass had died. Worked fine during the survey but I couldn’t get it to power up. Turns out the power to the windlass is tied to the rotary thruster power switch in the rear port cockpit locker. A simple thing but who would have guessed?
Took us a whole season to get the basic processes down pat and, after 5 seasons now, we are still learning a few tricks!
Good luck!
Thanks for the welcome. I had the same issue with the windlass power. My boat, a 2013 R25sc did not come with a manual and I can't find one online, only the older 25 is available. As for the AC, I have managed to get it to come on by holding the button down longer but it shuts off in 30 seconds or less with an error code that I think indicates overheating. Perhaps I do need to prime the raw water system. The thru hull valve is open but the strainer has no water in it. The strainer appears to be very clean. I am having a hard time finding a service technician where I am in N.C. so I hope I can solve this myself.
bigdealsam
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2016
- Messages
- 76
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-26
- Vessel Name
- Almost Heaven
I also have an R25 (2012) with AC concerns.
First, I had to reset the breaker on the generator. It is really ON the generator. Then I needed to replace the Impeller. Then I had to add Freon to the AC unit. Then I had to fabricate reflective material for all windows and hatches. Then pull all curtains closed.
The temp is STILL not completely comfortable however it is MUCH better than before. Of course part of the problem is the temperature of the lake water (near 90 degrees) that is used to cool the boat.
Hopefully cooler temps will result in a more comfortable NC cruise.
First, I had to reset the breaker on the generator. It is really ON the generator. Then I needed to replace the Impeller. Then I had to add Freon to the AC unit. Then I had to fabricate reflective material for all windows and hatches. Then pull all curtains closed.
The temp is STILL not completely comfortable however it is MUCH better than before. Of course part of the problem is the temperature of the lake water (near 90 degrees) that is used to cool the boat.
Hopefully cooler temps will result in a more comfortable NC cruise.
BradOwens
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2015
- Messages
- 637
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-288 C
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2905E112
- Vessel Name
- Serendipity
- MMSI Number
- 367703440
Miss Tina,
If the through hull valve is open, and no water fills the strainer, you may have a clogged intake. You can try putting a garden hose into the strainer to blow it out, or have a diver clean it from under the boat. If you have the boat on a trailer, you may be able to flush it yourself.
If the boat is in the water, be very careful about opening the through hull valve with the cover off the strainer, as sea water can quickly come in. Be sure you can close the valve to stop the water flow.
If the through hull valve is open, and no water fills the strainer, you may have a clogged intake. You can try putting a garden hose into the strainer to blow it out, or have a diver clean it from under the boat. If you have the boat on a trailer, you may be able to flush it yourself.
If the boat is in the water, be very careful about opening the through hull valve with the cover off the strainer, as sea water can quickly come in. Be sure you can close the valve to stop the water flow.
ALICE J
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2014
- Messages
- 407
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Hull Identification Number
- FLM27251011
- Vessel Name
- ALICE J
- MMSI Number
- NONEHERES
I had a part of a mangrove seed wedged just inside the strainer input. Looking from the strainer side after unscrewing the plastic cover and mesh screen nothing could be seen, but the water did not flow freely. Probing carefully I could feel something out of sight. With a small hook, I was able to snag the offending blockage and the water flowed freely. :idea:
Miss Tina here, I'm about to try the various fixes suggested before I hire a professional. A couple of questions; Are there any zincs that need to be replaced in the AC raw water system? Can I check and re-charge the freon myself? and most important, how do I prime the raw water pump and where is it. There are two thru hull valves next to the generator, one cools the generator and the other goes to a yellow cylinder that I assume is a pump but I'm not sure since it does not look like other pumps on the boat. There is alot to learn about this well equipped little boat, GPS, chart plotting and auto-pilot are next on my list! After 30 years owning a wooden Harkers Island 27 I am just thrilled that the hull won't rot!
Matty
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2018
- Messages
- 462
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Vessel Name
- IN THE FALL (2018)
Need some more info in order to help you. Are there any name plates on the equipment you are talking about? Can you take a picture of the thru hole area and pump and post it to your album? If you do not yet have an album use the forum search tool and you will find out how to request one.
I believe the second thru hole supplies water to the a/c pump. Do you see electric going to the cylinder? IS there a clear lid to the strainer for the thru hull? You should see the thru hole, then a strainer then a pump.
You first need to be sure thru hole lever is in the open position. Then make sure strainer is clear. If you can open strainer with lever closed and then open for a few seconds water should rush in. Close again. lid back on and reopen. If pump does not come on when a/c is started you may have an air lock. Forcing water through the line with a hose can sometimes fix that issue. What is the name brand and model of the a/c? We can see what the error code is if you provide that info. Manuals are online.
Two primary reasons for shutting off after a short run are no water circulation or low refrigerant.
I believe the second thru hole supplies water to the a/c pump. Do you see electric going to the cylinder? IS there a clear lid to the strainer for the thru hull? You should see the thru hole, then a strainer then a pump.
You first need to be sure thru hole lever is in the open position. Then make sure strainer is clear. If you can open strainer with lever closed and then open for a few seconds water should rush in. Close again. lid back on and reopen. If pump does not come on when a/c is started you may have an air lock. Forcing water through the line with a hose can sometimes fix that issue. What is the name brand and model of the a/c? We can see what the error code is if you provide that info. Manuals are online.
Two primary reasons for shutting off after a short run are no water circulation or low refrigerant.
I did finally get the AC working. Turned out to be an air lock between the water in inlet and the pump. In essence the the pump needed priming. It is very cold and sucks the humidity out fast. I'm still trying to get the control panel to respond properly, there seems to be a delay between button pushing and response but hey! I just located the remote control, so I'll get some batteries and try that path. I'll start creating an album soon.