Anchor Locker Hatch Cover Hinge Location

[asm777]

Hoping to get some feedback on a potential modification to be made to the hatch cover over the anchor chain locker.

I think most of us know that when retrieving our anchors, somebody needs to be up front to make sure the anchor rode doesn't bunch up under the windlass. Some previous discussions here:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11706&p=79804
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10304&p=71086
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=557&p=3723

On our C30, the placement of the windlass controls on the starboard side along with the anchor locker hatch opening being on the port side makes for some awkward positioning when trying to retrieve the anchor in less than perfectly calm seas.

Also, the direction in which the factory placed the hatch not only makes it difficult to operate the windlass controls while reaching underneath but may cause strain on the hinges.

Closed position showing hinge location

Open position showing hinge location

Note that in the open position, the hatch is blocked (propped up) by the elevated portion of the bow over the anchor rode and in less-than-calm seas, can slam closed if the boat rocks too much to port.

Whether from slamming or strain caused by being held open in a somewhat vertical position, I recently noticed that one of the hinges had separated and bent out of shape:

While I've already replaced the hinge, I started wondering if there was a better way to address this as I'm sure in its current configuration, I'll be replacing the hinge again in a few years.

What if the anchor locker hatch were to open front to back instead of left to right as shown below?

Hinges moved to rear edge with new cutout on front edge

Hatch would lie flat on the bow deck when open allowing easy access to anchor locker while operating the windlass controls

Any potential concerns with making the changes I'm contemplating? Could rough seas cause the hatch to fly open if the hinges are moved from left->right opening to front->back opening? (If so, maybe a locking mechanism could be added similar to how the flip up seat right under the open hatch in last picture is secured?)

If I move forward with this, I wonder if the factory can provide a hatch cover that fits over the anchor chain locker without the holes for the hinges and current notch that allows opening of the hatch... =)

 

[Cutwater28GG]

its not clear if the deck is cored in that location.

if so, you will want to overdrill the holes fill with solid epoxy and then drill the holes for the screws. otherwise you are at risk of getting water into the core of the deck.

 

[Salty7]

The hatch would need something to latch it down securely if you go with that direction. The airflow from forward movement will likely grab it and have it fly open while underway if it isn't securely latched.

 

[snydzy]

Wouldn’t it be easier to find a way to secure the hatch in its open position while retrieving the anchor? A small bungee secured to the underside of the hatch would work. Seems to me the stress on the hinge came from trying to hold the hatch open in less than ideal conditions. We usually retrieve the anchor from the helm switch, while the individual up front gives directions/gestures while focusing on the rode in the anchor locker.

 

[BB marine]

We have a C26 and have experienced the same issue. The locker lid is in the way when retrieving the anchor and adjusting rode and chain in the locker. The hinge installation is slightly in a bind because of slightly different mounting elevations. This bind puts a stain on the hinge and adding the usage while retrieving the anchor will cause the hinge and mounting hardware to fail. The mounting of the hinge to the deck is not an issue. The construction is the same all the way around where the hatch is installed. I like your idea but agree a latch securing the hatch down would be necessary to prevent the hatch from lifting from wind. In my case when towing. To do the installation right the hatch should be set in place then the hinges installed to the deck in the locations you have indicated. Then shims need to be measured to go under the hinge that attaches to the hatch to relieve stain on the hinge. With all mounting hardware tight there should be no bind at the hinge location and the hatch should lay flat on the surface.

( Cutwater fails to do this. I found the mounting hardware loose and when I tightened the hardware the hatch elevated 1/4 of an inch off the surface opposite side of hinges. I installed shims and the fasteners are now tight and there is no strain on the hinge.)

Another requirement to your installation is to install two rubber pads on the outside corners of your hatch. This will hold the hatch off the deck and level when the hatch is open and laying on the deck. The hatch should lay level, if not the hinges could fail. This is a good idea! It will require filling a 4 holes and finish will Gelcoat. I would get hatch material and cut a new hatch for cosmetic reasons. Good luck on your project.

 

[asm777]

its not clear if the deck is cored in that location.

if so, you will want to overdrill the holes fill with solid epoxy and then drill the holes for the screws. otherwise you are at risk of getting water into the core of the deck.

Hmm, I guess I'll check with the factory on this one. From my cursory look, it just seemed like holes for the existing bolts were drilled and there are washers and nuts underneath.

Wouldn’t it be easier to find a way to secure the hatch in its open position while retrieving the anchor? A small bungee secured to the underside of the hatch would work. Seems to me the stress on the hinge came from trying to hold the hatch open in less than ideal conditions. We usually retrieve the anchor from the helm switch, while the individual up front gives directions/gestures while focusing on the rode in the anchor locker.

I don't think securing the hatch while open will relieve the strain on the hinge.

Our anchor line operation is probably a bit different because our primary use is while night diving (during the winter months anyway).

I operate the boat from the upper helm 100% of the time (which only has a subset of the controls of the lower station) and don't have a windlass switch so my role is limited to keeping the boat moving forward to bring the anchor straight up. My buddy ends up having to operate the windlass controls, periodically sweep the rode out from directly under the windlass to make space, and checking over the front of the bow to make sure rode is coming straight up... all while not dropping his flashlight into the ocean! =)


Salty7 and BB marine:
Ok, thanks for confirming need to lock it down. Wasn't thinking of the airflow, just up and down bow movement when conditions aren't flat.

I suppose my next step is to take a closer look at how the flip up seats are secured next time I'm down at the boat.

My guess is that a flush latch like below installed on the hatch cover would be similar to how the flip up seats are secured to the deck. Wouldn't even need a new cutout on forward edge per my original plan since there would now be a little pull latch.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/southco- ... cordNum=16

But... since I just replaced the hinge... I'll probably end up living with it as is until the next time it fails before moving forward with this project...

BB marine, if you end up doing this first, please take photos to document process! Your trim tab mods are still the best thing that I've gleaned from this forum and should be a factory option!