Anchor Locker Jamming

J

Jfrano

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2018
Messages
473
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 CB
Vessel Name
June Sea
So what’s the secret of deploying rode without it twisting and knotting at the windlass when deploying and jamming up, a constant problem.

Thanks
 
We went with 8 plait rode and a Mantus swivel. That combo really seems to prevent the rode and chain from twisting. Even when we were doing 360 degree spins around our anchor all afternoon, evening and night.

When I put in a new gypsy last year I then had the same issue jamming up Jfrano mentioned. But only on retrieval, not deployment. Jamming was caused our 8 plait rode not releasing from the gypsy as the windlass spun. Yes, it did this even with the steel “rode stripper” in place, the locker cleared every 20 feet of retrieval and working the windlass from the bow. The chain section retrieved just fine. Tightened up the torque on the windlass a bit and that seems to have solved the “failure to release” rode problem. But I’m not sure why that worked!
 
We also use the Mantus swivel. It really does help.
 
Yes, a swivel will help. The Mantus is the best. However, I suggest that once you install the swivel, you initially pay out all your rode, this will aid in untwisting the rode while retrieving. Additionally, unless you let out a small amount of chain and rode, it is usually necessary to be at the bow and lay the rode and chain in so that it won't bundle up under the windless and also jamb on retrieval.
 
I agree with scross that the Mantus Swivel and the 8 plait rode, rather than twisted nylon, is a huge improvement. The 8 plait is so much easier to handle that we bought the same for our back-up anchor, a Fortress that has the rode in a bag stored in the cockpit lazaret.
 
Yes, I have the Mantis swivel. The line that comes with the RT is very stiff, which contributes to the problem. On the East Coast NY/NJ it’s hard to find 250’ water depth without going several miles off the coast.

I think the 8 plaited rope is the way to go.
Anyone know the line diameter on a RT29, I’m nowhere near my boat.

Thanks
Joe
 
Our 2021 R29 that was built in the fall & early winter of 2020 came a 22 lb Lewmar claw anchor with a rode that consisted of 50 feet of 5/16" chain (also from Lewmar) and 200 feet of 5/8" 8 plait nylon line.
 
We had the same problem on our r29cb. Upon retrieval the line and chain would pile up in the locker and get jammed under the windlass opening-- every time. I solved the problem by moving the last 150 feet of the line out of the the main catch basin and up onto the port side of the locker. Now there is plenty of room for the chain to drop freely and pile up without jamming. most of the time we anchor in 20 feet or less allowing 5:1 scope to sit in the middle of the locker. If more is needed it will pull it from the side no problem I also installed a mantus swivel (onto a ronca 15) That also helped I think.
 
Even though I stop operating the windlass, I really don’t like having my wife’s hands near that thing on every deployment and retrieval of the anchor. Will try the locker split and determine what type of line I’m currently using. Will get it
Right for the next season and the loop in the fall!

Thanks all
 
Jfrano":zfq1r3re said:
Even though I stop operating the windlass, I really don’t like having my wife’s hands near that thing on every deployment and retrieval of the anchor. Will try the locker split and determine what type of line I’m currently using. Will get it
Right for the next season and the loop in the fall!

Thanks all
Click to expand...
If you are doing the loop I also suggest that you attach a trip line to the anchor while on the rivers. There can be snags at spots and having a trip line will be helpful in the event the anchor gets stuck.
 
If you are doing the loop I also suggest that you attach a trip line to the anchor while on the rivers. There can be snags at spots and having a trip line will be helpful in the event the anchor gets stuck.[/quote]

I’m thinking of having this. I’ve heard several people comment that no matter how they mark it, others will come and pick it up, thinking it’s a morning ball.
 
I learned a trick from a charter fishing Captain in Alaska which I have put on my anchor but luckily have not had to use it yet. It is simple to do and takes 5 minutes to complete and may definitely save a snagged anchor.

Change the point where you attach your anchor chain to your anchor. Disconnect the anchor chain from the end of the stock of the anchor(normal connection point) and move it to the crown of the anchor and tie wrap or use small soft line to attach the chain to the end of the stock of the anchor. This allows the chain to pull in the normal horizontal direction when normally anchored. But if your anchor gets stuck a good pull on the chain or rode will break the tie wrap or soft line and now you have a vertical pull on the crown of the anchor which will hopefully pull the flukes free from any obstruction.

The geometry or physics of this simple mod makes sense but fortunately I've not had to break the soft line yet.

Bob Allan
Annie M 2016 27C
 
Very elegant, simple and inexpensive solution. What type of anchor are you using that configuration on? I have a Rocna with the half circle righting rod across the shanks. Might it work on that too? Gary
 
I've always thought that the cable-tie-to-stock concept has one problem: it relies on a cable tie to manage the pull of the boat onto the stock (and thus to set the anchor into the bottom).

If wind increases enough, the cable tie will break and the boat will tend to pull the anchor out, rather than set it. So exactly when the anchor is needed most, it will try to come free, right?

A trip line makes much more sense to me, esp. in shallower waters (or an anchor retrieval ring, not as good but less complex day to day).
 
SJI Sailor":65p3u4nk said:
I've always thought that the cable-tie-to-stock concept has one problem: it relies on a cable tie to manage the pull of the boat onto the stock (and thus to set the anchor into the bottom).

If wind increases enough, the cable tie will break and the boat will tend to pull the anchor out, rather than set it. So exactly when the anchor is needed most, it will try to come free, right?

A trip line makes much more sense to me, esp. in shallower waters (or an anchor retrieval ring, not as good but less complex day to day).
Click to expand...

I use the cable tie method when I use a grappling type hook when fishing reefs. It works like a charm. It has saved me a few times. I am not sure if I would use it for cruising though. If it were to snap overnight while sleeping you will be floating away. A small float like this https://www.westmarine.com/buy/airh...qQ6jKIZcGTN2nXKq0bG3Cl8bDZBLD_DBoCuisQAvD_BwE should work fine. If some knucklehead thinks this is a mooring ball I would get away from them quickly. You wouldn't want to be anchored near them.
 
GaylesFaerie,
I have the standard plow anchor provided by Ranger on the 2016 R-27C. It actually had a hole cut/drilled in the crown of the anchor to allow attaching the chain shackle. As long as your chain can have a straight run from the attachment point along the stock to where you attach the cable tie/soft line it should work on your anchor.

SJI Sailor,
I agree with your point about if you pull very hard, enough to break the cable tie/soft line you will likely dislodge your anchor. That is what the rig up is supposed to accomplish......on a stuck anchor. But you are absolutely correct it could happen when you don't want it to. I tie my chain to the stock loosely with a couple of turns of @ 1/8" gangion so that when the chain applies tension to the attachment point it is not putting any tension on the gangion. If you have sufficient chain to provide for the appropriate catenary, the force on the rode and chain will be in line and parallel to the stock and effectively drive the anchor into the bottom. But if you do not allow enough rode/chain to provide the appropriate catenary or wind or current forces put enough force on the rode/chain to pick the chain up off the bottom you do stand the chance of breaking the cable tie/soft line and dislodging your anchor.

I have now used this rig up some 50 +/- times in South Central Alaska in 50-100' of water with tidal currents of up to 2.0 to 2.5 kts(sometimes) without it breaking the gangion line. The most severe conditions for both depth and current and wind speed have been while I'm anchored fishing for halibut. If it pops free then, it's no big deal as I would just reposition and try to re-anchor. Anchorages at night are usually in slightly less water depth 25-65' and pretty protected with mountains and limited fetch. So I sleep just fine knowing that if my anchor does get snagged I have a pretty good chance of recovering it. I also use Anchor Pro to allow for a good nights sleep.
 
GaylesFaerie said:
Very elegant, simple and inexpensive solution. What type of anchor are you using that configuration on? I have a Rocna with the half circle righting rod across the shanks. Might it work on that too? Gary
Click to expand...
Hi, I’m contacting you in this chat but my question is about a series of photos you shared (but you stopped sharing at some point) in another chat (that is locked for more chat) about propeller zinc and how the nuts and pin work to hold the propeller in place. Will appreciate the help as I’m removing the propeller for the first time under the water.
 
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