anchoring questions

[davecook]

Being new to anchoring out , I have a few questions . Should I use a anchor snubber , like a Davis Shockle , to prevent any jerking ? should I always tie off to the cleat to keep the strain off the windlass ? Should I switch the anchor light over to LED or rig up or put up a solar one ? do you guys use a diesel additive ? thanks Dave

 

[knotflying]

If you are using all chain to anchor, a snubber should be used. Yes, tying off the line/rode to eliminate stress on the windless is also good practice. An LED anchor light will save amp hours. A solar one that goes off automatically will avoid running all day with your anchor light on because you forgot to turn it off, but not what I would consider a necessity. The only diesel additive I use is FPPF, one ounce per ten gallons. This was recommended by Mac Boring, the Yanmar distributor here in the Northeast.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

If you do not tie off your anchor rode to release the stress on the windlass and to act as a safety measure in case the line lets out then you should use a snubber. Snubbers are best used for anchoring with chain and are used to take the tension away from your windlass but also increase your anchoring scope with the same amount of chain out because the chain goes almost straight down into the water from your boats bow inside of going out at a 45* angle or so. Take a look at:

Sea-Dog Stainless Chain Gripper Plate
SKU: 3218501SD

The notch inserts into a chain link and you make permanent lines to connect to the two holes shown in the gripper plate. The other end of the lines you connect to your front bow cleats, this is done after you've let your anchor out and got a set.

 

[Barry Cohen]

How would one use this device if the only cleats are to the rear of the windlass?

 

[knotflying]

Barry,
You attach lines to the gripper and they grab the chain. Then I would run the lines through the chocks on port and starboard and then tie it to the cleat behind the windless.

 

[Barry Cohen]

That's what I thought.

 

[Brian B]

Why not tie a rolling hitch knot on the chain, bitter end to the cleat. Let out the chain till the tension is on the line. Save yourself $$$, you could also use two lines if necessary off port and starboard.

 

[SGIDAVE]

Why not tie a rolling hitch knot on the chain, bitter end to the cleat. Let out the chain till the tension is on the line. Save yourself $$$, you could also use two lines if necessary off port and starboard.

Thats what I like to do...then there is less "metal-to-metal" clanging/rattling/racket whilst I try to sleep at night. I used an extra 3 strand dock line to splice a 'Y' shaped bridle for overnight anchoring. You-Tube is your friend to learn splicing.

A rolling hitch is like a tautline hitch. It looks like this:

Of course, you could simply loop your anchor bridle line THROUGH one of your chain links and tie it off with a bowline or your favorite knot.

Fair Winds and Anchors that don't Drag,

/david

 

[swillmerchant]

David,
Could you post a pic of your "Y-shaped bridle" so we can learn from your inventiveness?
Thanks,
Doug

 

[SGIDAVE]

David,
Could you post a pic of your "Y-shaped bridle" so we can learn from your inventiveness?
Thanks,
Doug

Hello Doug,

I'll work on getting a pic.

Basically, the two 'top' arms of the Y have eyes which are secured to the cleat on the bow after you pass one through the chock on each side of the bow. The single 'leg' of the Y (the part of the Y which points down) is secured to the anchor rode. I think the upper limbs of my Y are 6-8' long and the bottom leg is...whatever was left after cutting a 20-25' dock line. The dock line already had an eye spliced at one end; The cut-off piece which is spliced to make the second upper arm also needs an eye spliced....aww heck I'll try to get a pic up here.....

/david

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

David:

Lets see if I understand........when you are all set and done, while using the "rolling hitch" tie to make a bridle for anchoring, do you have one long line? An eye to the port cleat, the rolling hitch tied to the rode and then the balance of the line coming back onto the starboard cleat?

Jim

 

[SGIDAVE]

Here is a generic anchoring bridle:

Each of the limbs of the "Y" are sized to your boat. I left off the 'grab hook.' There are numerous hook-type devises out there if you want one. I prefer the silence of a tied rope connection rather than a metal-to-metal interface.

This pic isn't a Ranger Tug but you get the idea

In this pic simply delete the grab hook and extend the line a few feet and you have the "Y" configuration I'm talking about.

Of course there are commercially produced versions of the anchoring bridle. Here is a sweet one made by Mantus Anchors (mantusanchors.com)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FA_wNBqTYAA&feature=player_embedded
At about 2:20 in this vid you will see the bridle deployed for demonstration purposes

Fair Winds and Snug Bridles,

/dave

 

[davecook]

Thanks to everyone for the input , with only 50 ft of chain , I am always out to the rode , so the line will give enough give to stop any jerking ? and I will tie off to the big cleat behind the windlass - so no need for a snubber ? thanks Dave

 

[SGIDAVE]

Thanks to everyone for the input , with only 50 ft of chain , I am always out to the rode , so the line will give enough give to stop any jerking ? and I will tie off to the big cleat behind the windlass - so no need for a snubber ? thanks Dave

Hello Dave

That's correct no snubber needed.

Dave