Another electrical ?: Windlass wire routing & switches

[rpmerrill]

In Springtime I guess we all notice things that we took for granted last year.

My windlass foot switches are showing some wear. The rubber diaphragm is cracked and worn.
I'm guessing that corrosion and failure is not far away. A little bit of caulk or liquid electrical tape might help for the short term?

From the anchor locker side there are some very light duty wires that disappear behind the wall and apparently go to a relay somewhere.
I think it is in the helm wiring cabinet?

I think the obvious answer is to splice the new switches into the system inside the anchor locker.
Thankfully there is enough slack wire available to work with.

Hints, tips, and warnings are all welcome.
rich

 

[BB marine]

I think the obvious answer is to splice the new switches into the system inside the anchor locker.
Thankfully there is enough slack wire available to work with.

Hints, tips, and warnings are all welcome.
rich

That is what I would do (Right or wrong) ! I would pull out all the available slack. I would assume there is a splice between the switches and the wires going back to the solenoids. I would expect this splice is somewhere in the locker area. That is where I would make my connection. Theory, the more splices in a circuit the more places for a possible issues. If you find the splice cut the wire there. If not make the splice in a location that is easy to get to. I would use a marine shrink connector. I do a bit of over kill when installing in bilge or wet areas like the anchor locker. I slide a shrink tube over the wire to be connected then make my crimps using marine shrink connectors. I heat the connector to seal the joint. Let it cool then I slide the shrink tube over the complete connection 1/2" overhang both sides of the connection. I then shrink the tube. Over kill but insurance of a clean connection for years to come!

 

[rpmerrill]

We both are belt and suspenders guys.
rich

 

[Capt’nKarl]

I just replaced the Lewmar windlass down switch on the bow. We have a 2018 R-23. The original switches for the Lewmar windless are no longer being made. The new switch replacement is slightly larger in diameter. I think the new switch replacement is a better design.

 

[nzfisher]

Begs a question. What are the replacements and where can they be found? I can see this in the future for my boat and a heads up is appreciated. Thanks

 

[rpmerrill]

I'm looking at Lewmar and West Marine sources for new switches.
I'll post my "switch switch" experience here soon.

 

[BB marine]

This is a thread that Bill posted last month.


viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13965&p=92946&hilit=lewmar+switches#p92935

 

[Southriver]

Windlass issues ,windlass checked out on spring check list although only ran a foot or so both directions . Now will not work from helm or bow switches I do hear the actuator clicking . I tried the helms with again it worked for about 1-2 ft and stopped had to manually raise chain.where do I go from here ? Thanks to other posts I did locate the contractor and wires were tight

 

[rpmerrill]

I did a little exploration this past weekend as explained in Bill's (CaspersCruiser) posting.
Headliner came down nicely and I found the bundled wires. There was an extra foot or more of each of the four wires all tucked in the narrow space (~1") between the anchor locker and the hull. I was able to reach in and grab the wires and I even touched the zip tie with one finger but that was as good as I could do. They are all very tightly secured in place and totally worthless.

Really frustrating, the one time I found slack in a wire or a tube on my boat and it is totally un-useable.

I guess I'll be proceeding with my switch replacement and do the best job possible of splicing and sealing inside the anchor locker.

 

[Irish Mist]

I had to replace mine on my 29. I just cut and heat sealed.. Just make sure all wires are out the way of the rode. It is so easy to over think all these simple things 🙂 Good luck.

 

[rpmerrill]

Switches replaced yesterday.
Again, (see my horn posting) there was no slack available in the wiring.
Also the West Marine photos and spec sheets gave me the assurance that the replacement switches were a drop-in. NOPE.

Larger diameter and new hole pattern, but they did go in relatively easy.

As mentioned earlier, the spare control wire was secured to a glued block in the narrow space. I was able to put the tip of a screw driver on the edge of the block and (with a hammer) bust it free. I was able to clip the wire tie but still unable to pull the wire down into the v-berth area. However, I was able to pull about a foot of wire into the chain locker which made the wire splice MUCH easier. Then I was able to pull some of that wire back into the cabin. The excess wire in the chain locker was bunched up and tied to the winch power cables.

All is well. But, sorry Ranger Tugs, my theme for the week has been cussing out the lack of wiring slack or access.

 

[Southriver]

Windlass issues ,windlass checked out on spring check list although only ran a foot or so both directions . Now will not work from helm or bow switches I do hear the actuator clicking . I tried the helms with again it worked for about 1-2 ft and stopped had to manually raise chain.where do I go from here ? Thanks to other posts I did locate the contractor and wires were tight

Replaced windlass unit thanks to Lewmar who were very helpful , easy changeover two wires three bolts and done works like new

 

[Southriver]

Update on lewmar windlass, the one on my R23 failed for the second time in 6 years , Lewmar replaced the first one under warranty.after less than 2 years the second one failed. On closer inspection found that water had infiltrated the motor housing shorting out the motor . Manufacturing defect which Lewmar refused to replace.product is GARBAGE !! Had custom cover made to cover windlass to protect from water infiltration, imagine that on a boat.worst customer service ever.

 

[Just Right]

The problem is that there is not enough surface area between cover and main housing. I completely rebuilt my windlass last year because of water intrusion. Lewmar uses a foam gasket that can easily fall inside the cover during assembly leaving a gap. When I assembled the windlass I put a bead of black silicon gasket between housing and cover on side of the foam gasket without adhesive. The gasket comes with 3M adhesive on one side. When you tighten cover the sealer squeezes out. There is a recessed groove around the housing where the gasket seals. Use a plastic spreader and smooth the sealer out even with the top of recessed area. Clean up with denatured alcohol before it cures. It looks really good and gives an added measure of protection. For anyone interested all parts were approximately 600.00 including motor. Before you order parts be aware that there are a couple of versions and all parts are not interchangeable. Mine is a Gen 3 on a 2013 Cutwater.

Hope this helps.