Antifreeze change on 4by Yanmar

STELLA L

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
71
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Hull Identification Number
FMLR2512A111
Vessel Name
STELLA
I am in the process of changing my antifreeze in my Yanmar 4by engine (25 ft Ranger Tug 2012). I have looked through past posts and may have overlooked the process. What I need is to have someone walk me through the change as I cannot seem to find that in the books I received with the engine. Any diagrams or pictures would also be very helpful.

Thanks, Jim
STELLA
 
Jim;

I have a step by step procedure for our Yanmar 260 HP on our website. It may be helpful. Check out the operations and maintenance page. www.andiamo-ranger29.com
 
On my 4BY2180 there is a small petcock on the heat exchanger on the side. I attached a small non-priming pump on to that petcock and then pumped the anti-freeze into a bucket. You will only remove about a gallon and a half of anti-freeze. Therefore I change mine every year. In order to do it per the manual, you basically would have to remove the entire heat exchanger.
I hope this information helps you.
Mike Rizzo
 
Mike, Can't you drain all of the anti freeze into the bilge and out the hull drain into a container on the ground under the boat....on land of course.

Phil
 
I guess you can do that Phil, but the boat antifreeze has the glycol and I would prefer not to have the residue in the bilge or have to clean it out. So that is why I use the pump.
 
I don't know if someone has mentioned this yet, but draining anti-freeze would be a good time to change both Yanmar engine zincs in the cooling system.
 
Thanks for the info that was discussed here. While studying how to change coolant I decided to see what is written out there on the net. I had come to believe anti freeze (coolant) is almost as mysterious as oil. However, right up there for maintenance. I came across the below article which is very informative and might give direction to how I will pursue what product to use. Any comments will be appreciated. NOTE - the bold lettering is mine.

"The latest generation of coolants is refered to as Extended Life Coolant (ELC) and is a significant improvement over coolant technology of just 10 year ago. The majority of these coolants use Organic Acid Technology (OAT) to eliminate the constant monitoring of SCA levels. In addition to this low maintenance approach, they are longer lasting, and a far better coolant. The final benefit is that most of the OAT coolants are compatible with each other. OAT coolants do not use nitrite/borate salts or phosphate/molybdate additives as SCAs. Instead they utilize carboxcylic/fatty acids to handle those needs. The largest benefit is that the coolant is good for 6 years or 600,000 miles - whichever comes first. The only maintenance requirement is that you must add a can of extender at 3 years or 300,000 miles to replenish the additives. You do not have to monitor SCA levels any more because there are none so throw away those test strips. You do not add any SCA additives to an OAT coolant either so if you have converted to an OAT coolant and have a SCA filter, just remove it or replace it with a plain old filter without any additives.

But OAT coolants have many other benefits as well. Organic Acids are kind to aluminum. Traditional coolants tend to eat away at aluminum and you'll find corrosion and deposits in water pump housings after a while. Radiators, as well as their solder joints, are much better off with OAT coolants. Your generator set has lots of aluminum in its engine and OAT coolants will keep that system much cleaner and efficient than a non-OAT coolant. Finally, the fatty acids are actually good for your water pump and help keep it lubricated, which is just the opposite of the traditional coolants which rely on short term additives in the coolant to accomplish this. That's why it's not a real good idea to "extend" an extended life coolant because the additives do drop off as the coolant ages with use. OAT coolants don't have that issue and just need a quick shot of extender at 3 years to keep your RV's cooling system up to snuff.

OAT coolants are compatible with just about anything so you can use the same stuff for your engine as well as your generator. They are also cross-brand compatible. Peak's Final Charge coolant is an organic acid coolant and is currently used by Spartan in their chassis. Cummins' Fleetguard Division originally made an OAT coolant called Optimax but this has now been rebranded as ES Compleat OAT extended life coolant. Caterpillar offers it's own Cat ELC coolant, which also uses hybrid OAT technology. All three of these are 100% compatible so if you can't find one brand, you can go into any truck dealership and pick up one of the others at the parts counter. The majority of the OAT coolants are orange in color, although this can vary, so color alone won't determine OAT status. Shell's Rotella ELC coolant is more of a red in color. It too is an extended life coolant that can go 600,000 miles. However, it is not a true OAT coolant so don't go mixing this with any of the other brands of OAT coolants.

Diesel coolants have come a long way in recent years. Even if you don't have wet sleeved cylinders you can still benefit from the engine friendly OAT Coolants and the extended service intervals of any ELC coolant. Your engine will thank you for it."
 
NB: I do recall from Yanmar that they are very particular about what brand of antifreeze is to be used in their engines. using the wrong brand can change some partins of the cooling system for the worse and void your engine warranty. Our yan required that we use only DexCool 😎 to stay in warranty.

if you are going to change the antifreeze, there is a coolant system cleaning product recommended by yanmar that you can use before you dump or pump all the old coolant out. then fill with new. and while the cooling system is empty, might as well inspect and clean the heat exchanger. (if you do be sure to have the replacement gaskets for the end caps , or a tube of FORMAGASKET. yan used to caution that you cannot reuse the gaskets. ( i found that to be true: the gaskets are paper thin and flimsy and may tear as you take them off, so it is hard to reinstall and get a tight seal.)

if you ever have to fish a piece of impeller out of the ht exchanger you will want a tube of forma gasket to redo the seals on the ht ex end caps. betting that you can reuse the gaskets may not work. i found this out the hard way.

fair winds
 
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