Aqualarm raw water sensor failure

Aqualarm makes and exhaust sensor as well. https://aqualarm.net/exhaust-engine...1.html?zenid=309929dc708e1c9c5fa2e7b636b0ee15 I am not sure if having exhaust temperature readings is necessary. If there are issues your engine temperature will start rising and the exhaust alarm will also sound after it reaches 200 degrees. On my plane I had exhaust temperature readings at each cylinder. Much more critical while flying and seeing differences between cylinders and also while leaning the fuel mixture. In a boat I can always float. :lol:
 
The Shearwater is fitted with both an exhaust temperature sensor (attached to exhaust fitting metal just after the water injection port) and a flow sensor, attached just after the sea strainer.

AT engine start, there are a number of alarm, no flow, no oil pressure, undervolt - all normal. My ears just can't sort the all out.

I see no real non-destructive way of checking the exhaust temperature - short of burning up the engine????
My hope is with multiple alarms, the lack of an alarm means the airplane is still flying 🙂
 
Red Raven":kqrs7msl said:
...The galvanic potential between the copper (-0.30 to -0.57 volts) and the zinc (-0.98 to -1.03 volts) in the brass creates a strong galvanic cell within the brass itself! The zinc will sacrifice itself in seawater turning the brass into the consistency of a sponge...
Click to expand...
[/quote]
Yes and certainly if the raw water system will stay flooded with salt water 24/7 then brass would be a poor choice.
 
After Brian B (GANSETT RANGER) posted this topic I decided to install the Aqualarm Water flow sensor and the exhaust temp sensor. I spoke with service technician at Aqualarm and I will repeat what Brian B said very helpful. I purchased the sender stand alone and used Bronze fittings instead of the sender assembly with plastic fittings. The only reason was the difficult time both Mike and Brian had installing the fittings to the hose. The install was much easier with the bronze barb fittings. The exhaust temp sender is a very easy install. It is mounted on the outside of the exhaust hose at 1 o'clock and has a set temperature to alarm at 200 F. I used Aqualarm exhaust temp /water flow helm mount panel ( audible alarm and indicator lights). The install was straight forward. The most difficult was getting power from the Volvo start switch. I purchased a Volvo Data link cable and plugged it into the Data link terminal block then turned the start switch on to find which terminals were 12V power and ground when switch was activated. I used the 12V+ and ground lead from the harness to power the alarm system when the Fob is used to turn the start switch on.










 
Ignition relay kit that will work with your Aqualarm
Volvo Penta 21475508

This relay (30 amp) is pretty much a plug in solution to the new keyless ignitions. It will allow you to activate your Aqualarm without a separate switch. I wired the relay to a Blue Seas 4 circuit ST fuse block and power several items from the ignition relay.
 
snydzy":1jjrnbeh said:
Ignition relay kit that will work with your Aqualarm
Volvo Penta 21475508

This relay (30 amp) is pretty much a plug in solution to the new keyless ignitions. It will allow you to activate your Aqualarm without a separate switch. I wired the relay to a Blue Seas 4 circuit ST fuse block and power several items from the ignition relay.
Click to expand...



Good Idea with the Blue seas fuse block. The Volvo relay kit was not in stock at the marina, so I used a Volvo data link cable that the marina had removed for warranty ( bad terminal connection) ( free ) and made my own relay kit. I terminated the leads I didn't need ( data link cable) used the Switch+ and negative. I connected to the a relay holder ( water proof relay switch harness amazon 9.99 ) and pulled Battery + from the fuse panel behind helm. It worked, the Volvo 21475508 would have been easier ( plug and play). I think I will add a fuse block for future accessories as you did.
 
Good Idea with the Blue seas fuse block. The Volvo relay kit was not in stock at the marina, so I used a Volvo data link cable that the marina had removed for warranty ( bad terminal connection) ( free ) and made my own relay kit. I terminated the leads I didn't need ( data link cable) used the Switch+ and negative. I connected to the a relay holder ( water proof relay switch harness amazon 9.99 ) and pulled Battery + from the fuse panel behind helm. It worked, the Volvo 21475508 would have been easier ( plug and play). I think I will add a fuse block for future accessories as you did.
Click to expand...

So Brian, as a follow up,....consider adding a timer delay to the audio part of the alarm... because every time the ignition is activated, that annoying buzzer alarm goes off. Having to mute the alarm will grow tiresome. I used this gadget:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3LQXTO/re ... PCb3PDMRMG
With a 3-5 second delay dialed in, it will be welcome addition to your starting procedure.
The visual lights will provide confirmation all is working, and the buzzer will still activate with a delay to get your attention.
 
The Aqualarm panel has indicator lights and horn. There is a Mute feature with this panel. Push button on the face plate. So a self test will alarm each time the engine start system is activated and I can mute it after. Negative to this is you must remember to reactivate the horn after start up. The lights are always active.
 
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