Battery reinstall

[TUG-A-LUG]

I removed the batteries from my 2009 (built late 2008) R25 to charge them and add water at home (no electricity in new barn), clean the battery well, clean the terminals. I reinstalled them today, closely following the detailed diagram that I created when I removed them. After reconnecting all the pos, I then started on the smaller colored wires connecting them to the #1 neg, along w/ the neg buss to #3. As soon as I slipped the neg buss onto #3 neg pole, an electric motor started in the bilge area. I assume it to be the bilge pump, but being cautious, I stopped the connection immediately. There is no water in bilge, so why would the bilge pump go on, if, indeed, it is the BP? I'm quite sure the reattachments are correct, so I'm stumped. What other electric motor could start up under this circumstance? Kit

 

[abcandjrc]

There is an unswitched line directly to the bilge pump so it will cycle if the boat takes on water without the master switch being on. And as you suspect, that is probalby what you are energizing. It is possible the bilge pump has a start-up procedure which sets the internal "switches", i.e. the hardware that detects water and other internal magic. Funny stuff happens. I'd put some water in the bilge and try again to see if it really is the pump, and then wait for it to shut down when the water is gone. Like chicken soup, it can't hurt.

I chased a mystery noise in our R21-EC for weeks, working on it in our driveway. When I turned on the master switch there would sometimes be a noise like a motor running. I checked everyplace. I finally started pulling fuses one at a time to isolate it, but that took weeks since the noise only seemed to happen if the master was shut off for something over 4 days or so. It is the stereo spinning up the CD reader. I suppose some capacitor or such discharges and the circuit needs to get charged again. Go figure.

 

[RProffer]

Be sure to check the float on your bilge pump for leaves or any other junk that may be holding the float up.

 

[doke01]

On our 2007 R25 there is a switch on the 12v breaker panel that bypasses the float switch and turns the pump on. Perhaps you bumped into the switch on your R25?

 

[Zundels]

Our 2009 R-25 was made about the same time as yours back in late 2008 so we share many of the same boat features.

We recently installed our batteries after a winter of storage indoors. After the wires were connected, the bilge did not kick on when hooking up the battery cables. The bilge is directly wired as a safety feature so keep that link to the batteries turned on.
Later this spring, the bilge pump did come on by itself when there was no water in the bilge. We found it turned on because the float switch was dirty or had "stuff" stuck on it. I got on my belly, reached down and with a towel and gave the entire bilge devices a good wipe down, then cleaned any gunk out the bilge and we have not had problem again. Now when we pour water in bilge it runs and turns off.

On another topic, what engine do you have? We have the Cummins 150 and are struggling with changing the closed engine coolant (we found that the drain plug is basically inaccessible), if you have this engine, any ideas?

Thanks, Don

 

[TUG-A-LUG]

I recieved a message from Boat Whisperer, Winter Island Yacht Yard owner/dealer Peter Haywood, and he said check the raw water wash down pump, as it may have been bumped on. Well, the way I've been crawling all over Tugether for the past 6 months, that is a strong possibility. So, I'm off to check that as the cause, and expect he's correct.
Don, I do have the Cummins, and purchased it from Peter one year ago. We only have 86 hours after one season, so not quite time to switch out coolant. Peter did just explain the location of the cap and topping off procedure. I am having a tough time locating the necessary coolant: Fleetguard Compleat with DCA4, part #cc2825. I've checked all over the net and have not found anyone closer than 1 1/2 hours away, so have not called to even see if they have it. Source? Kit

 

[TUG-A-LUG]

Problem solved. As Peter Haywood suggested and astutely deduced, I had bumped on the raw water wash down switch. I turned it off and finished connecting the battery harnesses. Voila!

 

[JerryE]

When I was visiting Frank on Ainokea (R25) he showed me a super sophisticated way to avoid bumping (and turning on) the raw water wash down. He had a wooden close pin attached to the top of the flat switch. I immediately copied this idea and obtained a close pin and no longer have inadvertent pump startups which can scare your pants off cause the thing is loud. Once up to pressure, the pump stops so you would never know the switch is on. Close Pin!

 

[rt11002003]

M/B clothes pin??? 😉

gene

 

[Levitation]

Go to your local auto parts store... Have them cross reference Fleet Guard to their standard antifreeze types and you will be good... Many stores will be able to order in Fleet Guard brand, if you feel the need..

A rough (but pretty good method) is to simply match the color... There is actually an industry standard to the colors...

My boat is at the Cummins dealer right now and I will try to remember to ask them what they charge for Fleet Guard - I assume mucho $$ as they would not even walk outside to look at the engine without a $300 signed work order <sigh>

 

[AKDAVE]

I bought a gallon of the fleet guard coolant (50/50 mix) yesterday at the Anchorage location of Cummins NW. It cost 15.31.

 

[Zundels]

Denny-o and Dave,

Thanks for the info on the Fleetguard. I will contact Anchorage CumminsNW to get a gallon or two shipped down to Kodiak.

Have either of you changed out your coolant? If so, did you use the drain plug or can we siphon out of the reserve tank? We've got about 200 hours on our Cummins 150 and will need a plan to pull out the coolant before too long. Could sure use any advise you can offer...

Don

 

[Levitation]

Ahhh yes, $7.65 for 2 quarts of water - ya gotta love Cummins... Well, they predict that in 30 years the price of fresh water will exceed that of oil and Cummins is leading the charge(s)...

I have not changed coolant yet... Engine is at 130 (approx) hours and I plan on doing the coolant this fall (3 years) before going to Florida with it...
I have not really looked at the "how"... Normally it sits 12 feet from my chair here, but it is currently at the Cummins dealer so I cannot just go look at it, then come back and spout off on this keyboard like I'm some sort of guru :roll:
Anyway, I tend to be a Point A to Point B personality without a lot of subtlety so I suspect I will likely - based on the comments here - cut a hose and install a tee... Other possibilities would be to find a plug on the heat exchanger that could be replaced with a drain valve... Siphoning form the tank will only lower the level a bit, not remove the bulk...
Lots of capable folks on this forum - ideas?

 

[JerryE]

Yanmar coolant is about $20 per gallon, so quit yer whining Cummins people! They ran out of the stuff in the nation for a whole month. It comes from Japan, so supplies may well be hurt by the serious problems they have at the moment. I remember when we could not get toner for a Sharp copier for weeks, as it is all made in one factory in Kyoto which got hit by an earthquake some time ago...

PS. Clothes Pin ≠ Close Pin. I knew something was wrong, above. Thanks Gene for reminding me of my humble state... Doing these posts at 6:00 am probably ain't too smart. Now I gotta go use the Hare Brush...

 

[Stella Maris]

$7.65 for 2 quarts of water, $20.00 for a gallon of coolant...... boy, that $4.00 a gallon diesel is looking pretty good! Although, when I stop in to take on 140 gallons of fuel in Karma.... that story may change......

 

[rt11002003]

Jerry E.,

I remember their name because as a young boy I helped my Grandmother hang out the laundry. 😀

She passed away in 1959. 🙁

gene