Battery Replacement Questions

[Fly-fish]

Just took delivery in a used 2010 Ranger tug25SC. At the dock for delivery it was slow to crank and wouldn't turn over. Flipped the parallel switch and we were in business. I am guessing that the batteries are originals and may need updating. One Exide XXHDM-27 Nautilis starting battery and three nautilis dual purpose batteries (unsure of model number),are in the boat now.

I have some questions:
Do You recommend replacing all batteries or just the starter?
There has ben some discussion about AGM batteries as an option. Yet they don't seem to have the high MCA as the original starter battery.
If I replace the starter knly with the iporiginal then reolace the other three with the AGM, do i have to change any settings on the battery trickle charger? Is it okay to mix battery types like this?

Thanks for your help.
Mike

 

[knotflying]

Well they are most likely 4 years old. Before you do anything why not make sure they are fully charged and rested and then do a hydrometer and load test. That will definitely tell you the shape of your batteries. If you do a search you will see many a thread on this topic and everyone has their opinions on battery type and when to replace. I personally use flooded and change out the house batteries every 3 years. The engine battery is not abused as much and even if that goes on you, you have a parallel switch to save the day. At four years old you may want to start new with everything and have a new baseline to work from. Also don't mix battery types. You need to set your charger and/or your solar panel controller to the proper battery type and they only have and either/or option.

And welcome aboard to the family of Ranger!

 

[Crewdog]

I would probably replace all batteries, making sure they're the same type as Mike said.

Knowing you have reliable elec power out in a remote cove is worth it.

Exide only warrants marine batteries for 24 months:

http://www.exide.com/Media/files/Downloads/TransAmer/Products/Exide Limited Warranty Policy.pdf

and here's a guide to marine battery use that advises buying new batteries when purchasing a used boat:

http://www.exide.com/Media/files/Do...nload/Exide Marine Battery Owner's Manual.pdf

Enjoy!
Bill

 

[Brian B]

My 2010 25SC also had Exide batteries. They were manufactured in 2009, I'm starting off this season with 4 new flooded batteries. When you search past posts you will see many references to Walmart Marine batteries made by Johnson Controls, about $80.00 for a group 27.
Enjoy your new tug.

 

[pugtug613]

I would only replace the battery that needs replacement. Get Nigel Calders Book on diesel engines and electrical systems. It has more then one chapter on how to check a battery out. That book has a wealth of info on diesel engines and a boats electrical systems. It will prove to be very valuable over time. Maybe the library has a copy? But, the book is well worth the price.
Chester

 

[Fly-fish]

Thanks everyone for your thoughtful advice and quick responses.

 

[Fly-fish]

As the used to say on the show "The FBI" here is the epilogue:

After tons of on-line research, reading your replies above and talking to others who faced the decision, I decided to purchase the AGM batteries. I bought them from Batteries Plus who carry a brand that is made by Odyssey batteries. These are the flat plate, not circular wound battery manufacturer ( I think that one is Optima). These were about a thousand dollars before an 80 dollar rebate that I need to mail in. They had a 10% discount going and ten bucks off immediately plus the mail in rebate which netted the cost. Certainly not cheap compared to half that for regular batteries. They weigh about 70 pounds each an rather than possibly hurt my back putting them in, I hired the local marina to put them in and re-set the dip switches on the trickle charger.

Regarding MCA or CCA number, we stuck one of these on a device in the store that simulated a load and cranked the heck out of it for over a minute. Though each of these are officially rated at 930 CCA, the battery off the shelf cranked to about 1100+ the entire period of time. As a matter of fact, things got pretty hot. So at least it satisfied my curiosity on the battery's starting ability. The deep cycle part of the battery's performance is already highly rated.

It also has a four year warranty, which I know I paid for in the price, but nonetheless was reassuring. I hope I made the right judgment call in going with these and not getting a separate starting AGM battery (as it only came in two posted versions).

I will keep you posted on performance periodically. I hope those postings are positive (pardon the polarity reference).

Thanks for your comments, tugnuts!

Mike

 

[baz]

Mike: I'm pleased you have your batteries sorted. I think you made right decision to replace all the batteries, as you cannot really tell how the original ones had been 'treated' by the previous owner. I would have at least run a load test, and rested them without being charged over night to check what the voltage level remained. As stated above, this would tell you the state of each battery. The AC panel has a toggle switch for the battery banks so it's possible to check each battery after they've been rested.

No matter, you're good to go now.

As an aside, I have the 2010 R-25 (Classic) and have had it since new from the factory. It has the flooded battery type. I keep an eye open for the fluid level and top up with distilled water as necessary. This task is a PITA as getting to all the cells, shining a flashlight down each opening to see the fluid level, and not disturbing wiring or dropping metal things onto contacts, is both time consuming and requires some 90º bends in the body. I always feel strained after doing this chore. I know age has benefits, but not this one. :lol: My point here is that I have original batteries, they are coming up to a 5 year lifespan and they ALL still operate without issues. I suspect I will need replacing them this time next year, and I will use the same battery type... based on my current experience with the factory stock ones.

 

[jimschu]

I recently purchased a new golf cart which has a 48 volt system, six 8 v batteries. It came with an automatic fill system
that is just great. You cannot overfill the batteries and therefore no mess and no worries about cleaning up overflowing battery acid. No more trying to check the fill level and the auto fill system was under 200 bucks and would be an easy DIY
install. Check with any golf cart shop.

Keep on tugging.

 

[Levitation]

The downside to an auto fill system will be the lack of eyes on the battery clamps on a timely basis. I use my water fills as an excuse to make sure the clamps are free of 'fur' and that other things in general in that area remain nominal.

 

[Todd]

Those of us unfortunate enough to have AGM batteries are not allowed to check the electrolyte level. We don't get the opportunity to hang upside down in the bilge with a flashlight and water bottle while unscrewing and replacing 24 battery caps, or practicing our pouring skills so we don't miss the hole or overfill the cell but we are allowed to check for the fuzzy stuff and look around a bit while the hatch is open.

 

[knotflying]

Those of us unfortunate enough to have AGM batteries are not allowed to check the electrolyte level. We don't get the opportunity to hang upside down in the bilge with a flashlight and water bottle while unscrewing and replacing 24 battery caps, or practicing our pouring skills so we don't miss the hole or overfill the cell but we are allowed to check for the fuzzy stuff and look around a bit while the hatch is open.

Then some day you will be stiff as a board from lack of regular contorting and unable to bend and we flooded battery guys will be at the top of our game! :lol:

 

[baz]

Mike (knotflying) is a 'dynamic' sort of guy for sure. :lol:

Quote.... http://www.chbattery.com/Asp/003_show.asp?id=61

What are the advantages and disadvantages of gel, AGM, and flooded lead acid deep cycle battery?

Generally, gel and AGM batteries have about 20% less capacity, cost about two times more, and have a shorter cycle life than comparable flooded lead acid batteries. However, Gel and AGM batteries do not need watering, are safer (no acid spilling out), can be placed in a variety of positions, have a slower self-discharge characteristic, and are more efficient in charging and discharging than flooded batteries (see table below). Gel batteries are more suitable for deep cycling applications whereas AGM batteries are more for light cycling and engine-starting applications.

Flooded Gel AGM
Charge/Discharge Efficiency 89% 98% 99%
Self discharge rate (per month) 13% 1-3% 1-3%
Finish Voltage (V) 15.3-16.0 14.1-14.4 14.1-14.7
Float charge(V): 13.2-13.7 13.4-13.8 13.4-13.8