mikeypaulding
Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2021
- Messages
- 6
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-28
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2703D213
- Vessel Name
- Tugether
Aloha Tug Nutters,
Although I’m new to the site, I have benefited greatly from the community and knowledge of this group. I’d like to give back by providing a step-by-step guide for beginners to repack their stuffing box while at the dock.
As background, I am the new owner of a 2013 R27 Classic with the Yanmar 4BY2 180 engine. My stuffing box was leaking excessively while at the dock, a constant drip enough to cycle the bilge pump every minute or so. Of course, being a new owner, I did not sleep at all the first night, thinking my boat would rest with Neptune by morning.
Thanks to the “As the Prop Turns” series by Fluid Motion, I learned how to tighten the stuffing box adjusting nut, but I also decided to replace the packing flax because I’m taking the boat 500 nm from San Francisco down to San Diego this summer.
I’m going to share a step-by-step guide on how to replace your flax packing (the material in the stuffing box, which is like teflon coated rope resembling incredibly firm tofu) and adjust the stuffing box nut to achieve the optimal drip rate of once every 20 seconds (3 drips per minute).
This is written for beginners by a beginner, so please feel free to add/edit this guide with your comments.
Background Research:
Ranger 27 Classic has a 1.25” shaft
The correct flax packing size for this size shaft is ¼ inch
I confirmed this by calling (big thanks to Andrew Custis aka The Tiger King):
Marine Hardware - manufactures shaft for R27
P/N FLUDSPNS-1.25B2.25H
1.25” shaft, 1/4” packing flax
Ron Thomas
(425) 883-0651 ext 21
For other Rangers/Cutwater models, you can use this guide to determine the correct packing flax size after measuring the diameter of your propeller shaft:
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Stuffing-Boxes-Shaft-Seals-and-Shaft-Bearings
Materials Needed for the Job:
2 - Rigid E-110 offset hex wrenches (available at Amazon)
2 - 1” inner diameter steel pipe (1-2 feet long) - available at any hardware store. These are used to extend the wrenches (breaker bars) for more torque. This is especially necessary for corroded nuts that have not been adjusted in a while.
1 - can of PB Blaster - penetrating oil to help free the nuts
1 - absorbent pad - to catch bits and pieces coming from the stuffing box, so they don’t end up in the bilge
1 - package of ¼” packing flax (from marine store, West Marine if necessary)
1 - tube of packing flax gel (also from marine store)
1 - fresh razor blade for cutting packing flax cleanly
Assortment of flat-head screwdrivers (blades should be about ¼”). These should be strong enough to pry out the old material.
1 - (Optional) packing flax removal tool from West Marine. Looks like a corkscrew with a wire attached to it. This tool was lame, didn’t really help. You can use it to grip the old packing flax and pull it out. I’m not a beast, but I could use my hand strength to pull out the old material once it started coming out of the packing nut.
1 - Scotch Brite pad (for cleaning any rust/corrosion from your propeller shaft)
(Optional) 1 - manual bilge pump (just in case the automatic fails).
Step-By-Step Guide:
1. Start by cutting a 45-degree angle in the packing flax
2. Wrap the flax around your propeller shaft so that it overlaps next to (not on top of) the 45-degree cut. Use your razor blade to cut the other 45-degree cut by following the angle of your first cut. Leave the wrap a little loose so that it will compress tightly when in the stuffing box. See the image below.
3. You will need a total of 3 rings of flax just like this. West Marine gives you enough for 4 - cut one extra just in case you need it.
4. Lube up each of the 4 rings (again, you only need 3, but have one extra) with packing gel. It’s the thickest green toothpaste you could imagine and does not come off easily (even with soap). Lay the lube on liberally.
Now for the scary part! Loosening the locking nut, then the packing nut and removing the old material. Actually, it’s not scary at all, but all the threads I read on sailnet scared the bejesus out of me. Honestly, even with the packing nut completely off, I’d say the flow rate was only about a gallon a minute. A decent bilge pump will handle this no problem. I had a manual bilge pump by my side because it was my first time. It’s still unused.
5. First, you have to first loosen the locking nut. There are 2 nuts involved in this job. The packing (aka adjusting) nut is the bigger/wider bronze nut forward, the locking nut is the skinny bronze nut aft. See picture below, compliments of “As the Prop Turns”. To loosen the locking nut, one of your Rigid wrenches holds the packing nut in place, while the other rotates the locking nut clockwise (if facing the stern of the boat). This is the hard part because years of corrosion are hard to free. I soaked both nuts with PB Blaster overnight to help and put breaker bars over the Rigid offset wrenches for a bit more torque. Watch your shins, because when the locking nut frees, the breaker bars go straight for your shins.
6. Now, it’s time to loosen your packing nut. This is opposite the locking nut, so rotate it counter-clockwise when facing the stern of the boat. Once you begin loosening, water will begin dripping. The looser, the wetter. Remember that a fail safe is to just tighten the packing nut up again and take a breather. My experience was the water flowing in was just about the same rate as my leaking stuffing box and the bilge easily kept up. For your sanity, if you put the absorbent pad under the stuffing box, you won’t hear the constant splash of the drip hitting the bilge water *and* it will collect any debris. Just make sure the absorbent pad doesn’t clog your bilge pump. Loosen the packing nut completely and slide it all the way forward (toward your engine).
7. With the packing nut off, clean any corrosion/rust on your propeller shaft. Mine was sparkling clean, with the exception of just forward of where the packing nut had been. Make sure your shaft is shiny and clean!
8. Inside the packing nut are 3 rings of old packing flax material that need to be removed. Use a flat head screwdriver to locate the seam of the old packing flax (packed very tightly in the packing nut). Using the screwdriver as a pry bar, keep trying to pry the old material out. Once it rears its ugly head, use your fingers or pliers to pull the ring out from the packing nut. The first ring is the easiest to remove, the 3rd ring is a real pain. This is the hardest part of the entire job.
9. After all 3 rings have been removed (yes there are definitely 3), use a rag and your screwdriver to clean out the inside of the packing nut. I found some shreds and junk in there.
10. Now, it’s time to put your new packing flax rings in! (You’re almost done). Place the first ring with the 45-degree seam at the bottom, so gravity holds it in place. We will call this the 6 o-clock position. Mark on your packing nut where this is (wax pencil). With your fingers, slide it into the packing nut as much as you can. I barely got the ring inside the nut. Use a blunt object (e.g. a ¼” punch or bar) to force the ring deeper into the packing nut. You only have to push it in enough so that a few threads are visible.
11. Now, with only 1 ring (partially) in, re-tighten your packing nut all the way, which will force the packing flax ring deep into the packing nut. Now, loosen the packing nut all the way off again and repeat steps 10-11 for the second and third rings. *Important* - you want to stagger each of the 45-degree seams, so water does not pass through them. If the first ring was 6 o-clock, the second ring should be 120 degrees different (360 / 3 = 120). So, I did 6 o-clock (1st ring), 10 o-clock (2nd ring) and 2 o-clock (3rd ring). Again, push each ring in as much as you can with your fingers (lube helps), then use a blunt tool to push it just past the first couple of threads, tighten the packing nut all the way to push the packing flax in. After the 3rd ring, you’re done with the installation. No water should be dripping at all, you can take a break, have lunch (not beer yet.. still have to adjust).
Adjusting the Drip Rate of your Stuffing Box
1. With the locking nut loosened (from step 5 above), tie your boat securely to the dock. Make sure your spring line is strong and secure. Start the boat and put it into forward at idle speed. This will spin the propeller shaft, which is needed to test the drip rate of your stuffing box.
2. Monitor the drip rate of your stuffing box. I watch the top of my Rule bilge pump to see the drips. You are looking for 3-4 drips per minute. Ideally, you go for 3 drips/min, because the stuffing box will naturally loosen with use.
3. Turn the stuffing nut clockwise (when facing aft) to tighten (less drips) or counter-clockwise to loosen (more drips) by only about ⅛ of a turn. It’s a fine adjustment that makes the difference.
4. Once you have the desired drip rate, put the boat into neutral, hold the packing nut in place with the offset hex wrench and tighten the locking nut (counter-clockwise) against the packing nut.
5. Take the boat out, run her at normal speed, bring her back to idle again and re-verify the drip rate. Sometimes, there is a shift or compression of packing flax which will change the drip rate after operation. Repeat steps 1-4 again after the packing flax has settled (although, you don’t have to be at the dock, just at idle speed).
6. Enjoy a tasty adult-beverage and feel good with the new knowledge and experience you have earned!
Link to Images Supporting this Guide (note: this features my girlfriend’s fingers, not mine!):
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1o9Pun4H_ZTX9gB2riVuOrZC4QdnZNrZU
Take good care all,
Mike
Although I’m new to the site, I have benefited greatly from the community and knowledge of this group. I’d like to give back by providing a step-by-step guide for beginners to repack their stuffing box while at the dock.
As background, I am the new owner of a 2013 R27 Classic with the Yanmar 4BY2 180 engine. My stuffing box was leaking excessively while at the dock, a constant drip enough to cycle the bilge pump every minute or so. Of course, being a new owner, I did not sleep at all the first night, thinking my boat would rest with Neptune by morning.
Thanks to the “As the Prop Turns” series by Fluid Motion, I learned how to tighten the stuffing box adjusting nut, but I also decided to replace the packing flax because I’m taking the boat 500 nm from San Francisco down to San Diego this summer.
I’m going to share a step-by-step guide on how to replace your flax packing (the material in the stuffing box, which is like teflon coated rope resembling incredibly firm tofu) and adjust the stuffing box nut to achieve the optimal drip rate of once every 20 seconds (3 drips per minute).
This is written for beginners by a beginner, so please feel free to add/edit this guide with your comments.
Background Research:
Ranger 27 Classic has a 1.25” shaft
The correct flax packing size for this size shaft is ¼ inch
I confirmed this by calling (big thanks to Andrew Custis aka The Tiger King):
Marine Hardware - manufactures shaft for R27
P/N FLUDSPNS-1.25B2.25H
1.25” shaft, 1/4” packing flax
Ron Thomas
(425) 883-0651 ext 21
For other Rangers/Cutwater models, you can use this guide to determine the correct packing flax size after measuring the diameter of your propeller shaft:
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Stuffing-Boxes-Shaft-Seals-and-Shaft-Bearings
Materials Needed for the Job:
2 - Rigid E-110 offset hex wrenches (available at Amazon)
2 - 1” inner diameter steel pipe (1-2 feet long) - available at any hardware store. These are used to extend the wrenches (breaker bars) for more torque. This is especially necessary for corroded nuts that have not been adjusted in a while.
1 - can of PB Blaster - penetrating oil to help free the nuts
1 - absorbent pad - to catch bits and pieces coming from the stuffing box, so they don’t end up in the bilge
1 - package of ¼” packing flax (from marine store, West Marine if necessary)
1 - tube of packing flax gel (also from marine store)
1 - fresh razor blade for cutting packing flax cleanly
Assortment of flat-head screwdrivers (blades should be about ¼”). These should be strong enough to pry out the old material.
1 - (Optional) packing flax removal tool from West Marine. Looks like a corkscrew with a wire attached to it. This tool was lame, didn’t really help. You can use it to grip the old packing flax and pull it out. I’m not a beast, but I could use my hand strength to pull out the old material once it started coming out of the packing nut.
1 - Scotch Brite pad (for cleaning any rust/corrosion from your propeller shaft)
(Optional) 1 - manual bilge pump (just in case the automatic fails).
Step-By-Step Guide:
1. Start by cutting a 45-degree angle in the packing flax
2. Wrap the flax around your propeller shaft so that it overlaps next to (not on top of) the 45-degree cut. Use your razor blade to cut the other 45-degree cut by following the angle of your first cut. Leave the wrap a little loose so that it will compress tightly when in the stuffing box. See the image below.
3. You will need a total of 3 rings of flax just like this. West Marine gives you enough for 4 - cut one extra just in case you need it.
4. Lube up each of the 4 rings (again, you only need 3, but have one extra) with packing gel. It’s the thickest green toothpaste you could imagine and does not come off easily (even with soap). Lay the lube on liberally.
Now for the scary part! Loosening the locking nut, then the packing nut and removing the old material. Actually, it’s not scary at all, but all the threads I read on sailnet scared the bejesus out of me. Honestly, even with the packing nut completely off, I’d say the flow rate was only about a gallon a minute. A decent bilge pump will handle this no problem. I had a manual bilge pump by my side because it was my first time. It’s still unused.
5. First, you have to first loosen the locking nut. There are 2 nuts involved in this job. The packing (aka adjusting) nut is the bigger/wider bronze nut forward, the locking nut is the skinny bronze nut aft. See picture below, compliments of “As the Prop Turns”. To loosen the locking nut, one of your Rigid wrenches holds the packing nut in place, while the other rotates the locking nut clockwise (if facing the stern of the boat). This is the hard part because years of corrosion are hard to free. I soaked both nuts with PB Blaster overnight to help and put breaker bars over the Rigid offset wrenches for a bit more torque. Watch your shins, because when the locking nut frees, the breaker bars go straight for your shins.
6. Now, it’s time to loosen your packing nut. This is opposite the locking nut, so rotate it counter-clockwise when facing the stern of the boat. Once you begin loosening, water will begin dripping. The looser, the wetter. Remember that a fail safe is to just tighten the packing nut up again and take a breather. My experience was the water flowing in was just about the same rate as my leaking stuffing box and the bilge easily kept up. For your sanity, if you put the absorbent pad under the stuffing box, you won’t hear the constant splash of the drip hitting the bilge water *and* it will collect any debris. Just make sure the absorbent pad doesn’t clog your bilge pump. Loosen the packing nut completely and slide it all the way forward (toward your engine).
7. With the packing nut off, clean any corrosion/rust on your propeller shaft. Mine was sparkling clean, with the exception of just forward of where the packing nut had been. Make sure your shaft is shiny and clean!
8. Inside the packing nut are 3 rings of old packing flax material that need to be removed. Use a flat head screwdriver to locate the seam of the old packing flax (packed very tightly in the packing nut). Using the screwdriver as a pry bar, keep trying to pry the old material out. Once it rears its ugly head, use your fingers or pliers to pull the ring out from the packing nut. The first ring is the easiest to remove, the 3rd ring is a real pain. This is the hardest part of the entire job.
9. After all 3 rings have been removed (yes there are definitely 3), use a rag and your screwdriver to clean out the inside of the packing nut. I found some shreds and junk in there.
10. Now, it’s time to put your new packing flax rings in! (You’re almost done). Place the first ring with the 45-degree seam at the bottom, so gravity holds it in place. We will call this the 6 o-clock position. Mark on your packing nut where this is (wax pencil). With your fingers, slide it into the packing nut as much as you can. I barely got the ring inside the nut. Use a blunt object (e.g. a ¼” punch or bar) to force the ring deeper into the packing nut. You only have to push it in enough so that a few threads are visible.
11. Now, with only 1 ring (partially) in, re-tighten your packing nut all the way, which will force the packing flax ring deep into the packing nut. Now, loosen the packing nut all the way off again and repeat steps 10-11 for the second and third rings. *Important* - you want to stagger each of the 45-degree seams, so water does not pass through them. If the first ring was 6 o-clock, the second ring should be 120 degrees different (360 / 3 = 120). So, I did 6 o-clock (1st ring), 10 o-clock (2nd ring) and 2 o-clock (3rd ring). Again, push each ring in as much as you can with your fingers (lube helps), then use a blunt tool to push it just past the first couple of threads, tighten the packing nut all the way to push the packing flax in. After the 3rd ring, you’re done with the installation. No water should be dripping at all, you can take a break, have lunch (not beer yet.. still have to adjust).
Adjusting the Drip Rate of your Stuffing Box
1. With the locking nut loosened (from step 5 above), tie your boat securely to the dock. Make sure your spring line is strong and secure. Start the boat and put it into forward at idle speed. This will spin the propeller shaft, which is needed to test the drip rate of your stuffing box.
2. Monitor the drip rate of your stuffing box. I watch the top of my Rule bilge pump to see the drips. You are looking for 3-4 drips per minute. Ideally, you go for 3 drips/min, because the stuffing box will naturally loosen with use.
3. Turn the stuffing nut clockwise (when facing aft) to tighten (less drips) or counter-clockwise to loosen (more drips) by only about ⅛ of a turn. It’s a fine adjustment that makes the difference.
4. Once you have the desired drip rate, put the boat into neutral, hold the packing nut in place with the offset hex wrench and tighten the locking nut (counter-clockwise) against the packing nut.
5. Take the boat out, run her at normal speed, bring her back to idle again and re-verify the drip rate. Sometimes, there is a shift or compression of packing flax which will change the drip rate after operation. Repeat steps 1-4 again after the packing flax has settled (although, you don’t have to be at the dock, just at idle speed).
6. Enjoy a tasty adult-beverage and feel good with the new knowledge and experience you have earned!
Link to Images Supporting this Guide (note: this features my girlfriend’s fingers, not mine!):
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1o9Pun4H_ZTX9gB2riVuOrZC4QdnZNrZU
Take good care all,
Mike