belt tensioner - volvo D3 on a 1 1/2 YR old R27

[no re-Gret]

I just had to replace my belt tensioner ($425) during the 400 hour service. Volvo warranty would not cover it because it was corrosion. According to the yard, when checking the impeller which is right above it, salt water spills onto it causing the spring to corrode and eventually seize. Just an FYI.

 

[Scuffy]

You would think they (Volvo) would have designed the belt tensioner so it could be greased so that there was no way for the salt water to remain captive. I wonder if Yanmar have that issue. If not; it strikes me as being a design fault issue. I would have thought Volvo would at least step up and handle at least the replacement part and let you maybe eat the labor. In the perfect word they should have eaten the whole enchilada. I think I'll smear a wad of water resistant wheel bearing grease to try and ward off the salt water crazies from nesting within. Thanks for sharing your pain.

 

[Brian B]

That can't happen on the Yanmar 150 or 180. Perhaps using Salt Away or similar product could help.

 

[TBates]

Hello,

I'm sorry to hear you're having some trouble concerning the D3 belt tensioner, I haven't experienced many issues whatsoever with the tensioners, so any feedback (good or bad) is very valuable. My best suggestion to avoid any future issues would be to: 1) close the sea strainer ball valve and remove the strainer lid. 2) run the engine using fresh water from a garden hose to flush the engine of any salt water. 3) perform the impeller change. 4) rinse off the area surrounding the impeller/belt tensioner using the garden hose (again using fresh water). 5) reinstall the sea strainer lid, open the ball valve, and run the engine to check for any seawater leaks.

Hope this helps, please feel free to email me directly at timbates@rangertugs.com with any future issues or concerns.

Thank you,

Tim Bates
Volvo Engine Technician
Ranger Tugs and Cutwater boats

 

[Glen]

I replaced the raw water belt tensioner on my R-25 / D3 at 600 hours because it was seized, I did not have any overheat issues so I suspect that other's may have a seized tensioner but won't realize it until they remove the drive belt. Prior to replacing the impeller at 800 hrs I will either remove the tensioner or use Tim's suggestion to fill the raw water system with fresh water.

 

[snydzy]

Today I had some time to service/winterize my Volvo D3 150....had some problems with the tensioner, not totally seized, but definitely showing signs of corrosion. 267 hrs and only fresh water operation! I'm suspecting a problem and it's not just salt water. I haven't had the tensioner off, so I don't know if it's a sealed unit, but I can clearly see the hook of the tension spring facing up @ 11 o'clock position. It seems that this would allow any water to penetrate the mechanism and cause problems.I'm guessing the pivot post and bushing are affected. I've worked it back and forth and it's working again but how long? This shouldn't be an issue.

 

[BB marine]

I worked as a marine Technician for 20 years mostly fresh water areas. I did work in the New England area for 4 years Swansea /Fall River Ma.and Wareham/ Cape cod Ma. area. When ever I did any service work I always carried a spray bottle of CRC . I would give everything a light coat of CRC to protect the metal components and electrical connections from salt air and corrosion. When we winterized the boats it was part of our program to spray the engines down with CRC , it worked quite well. It sounds like that may help eliminate some of these belt tensioner failures. I will start to spay CRC on the block and engine components and concentrate on the belt tensioner sounds like it gets some moisture in it and locks up the bushing/ bearing
Brian Brown
26 Cutwater.

 

[knotflying]

Which CRC product do you use. I usually use either corrosion X or Corrosion Block an anything I am working on, especially electrical components.

 

[BB marine]

CRC 6-56 , I buy a gallon and use a spray bottle . It leaves a thin film on everything that it is applied to. Keeps everything looking like new. The wet look evaporates and protectant stays on . It helps to disburse moisture. We used it on distributors Caps , advance weights in old conventional ignitions. I sprayed, alternators , starters, terminals. I have read many comments on tugnuts about corrosion, thrusters and motors , belt tensioner, other components . I so have not experienced any, but my boat only has one season on it and it was in fresh water. I have a covered cockpit so not much moisture in the bilge , engine compartment, or cockpit storage areas. We do plan on
Cruising, Florida, Bahamas, and Atlantic intra-coastal. I'm going to use it now when I winterize.
Brian Brown
26 Cutwater

 

[NautiTug]

I purchased CRC 6-56 and am just about ready to put the boat to bed for the winter. Anything in particular i should not spray CRC on?

 

[BB marine]

I only spray areas that would be suspect of corrosion or rust. Spray 6-56 where you want protection from rust or corrosion. It won't hurt anything. After spraying I use a couple of clean rags and wipe the engine compartment. The spray acts has a good degreaser too.

 

[oneeyedjackass]

My best suggestion to avoid any future issues would be to: 1) close the sea strainer ball valve and remove the strainer lid. 2) run the engine using fresh water from a garden hose to flush the engine of any salt water. 3) perform the impeller change. 4) rinse off the area surrounding the impeller/belt tensioner using the garden hose (again using fresh water). 5) reinstall the sea strainer lid, open the ball valve, and run the engine to check for any seawater leaks.

Hi Tim, How often should this be done. My engine has never been flushed per your instuctions, anything special I need to do to get back on track?
thx,mark

 

[TBates]

Hi Mark,

The maintenance protocol for the impeller on the Volvo engines is every 400 hours or every 24 months (whichever comes first). I recommend flushing the salt water from the engine before the impeller change or anytime the boat will sit static for a considerable amount of time. Others have added salt away or a similar product to this process. During the every 12 month or 200 hour service, it's a good idea to inspect the impeller, belts and belt tensioners to be sure there are no signs of corrosion.

Thank you,

-Tim

 

[oneeyedjackass]

Yikes!! Checked my belt tensioner and was barely able to move it. The alternator side works perfect. Sprayed some lube on it and will let it sit and hopefully it will free up. What's involved w/removing it? I should probab;y just take it off and go thru the whole thing, would hate to have to spend $400 ++ Any suggestions?

 

[S. Todd]

I am convinced the fresh water pump belt tensioner Volvo uses on their D3 is a defective design. The alternator belt tensioner is a different design and has no issues. Ours completely seized after three seasons and about 160 hours in fresh water. Boat is stored in temperature controlled garage except for the three weeks per year we used it. No amount of lubricant would bring it back to life. The good news is it is very easy to change, one bolt in the center, less than ten minutes. You can purchase a new one from the Volvo Penta Online store (ww2.iboats.com) (800-916-1123) (customerservice@volvopentastore.com). Belt Tensioner is Part No. 21424647 =$199.10. Hex Socket Screw that it mounts it is Part No. 959245 = $3.20.