bilge pump controls

synergy

Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2011
Messages
20
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Arima Sea Ranger
Vessel Name
synergy
We love our 2008 R 25 and although it is a challenge to add wiring or plumbing because of lack of access I have always managed to get it done. But something I was aware of some time ago became necessary for me to correct today as I was moving the boat on her trailer enough rain water in the bilge started the pump. After evacuating all the water it could reach it failed to shut down. I don't know if my boat was miss wired or all the early 25s are the same, but the switch in the DC panel only overrides the float switch.There should be a double throw auto/manual/off switch.the only way to stop a runaway pump is to ether remove the inline fuse at the battery or cut the wire at the pump.Fortunately last time I ran wiring from the transom to the DC panel I included a pull string ,so I will now will in the extra wire and replace the switch .
 
I believe this is by design. Most pull the fuse if they want the pump powered down completely. You could just add a stitch that will interrupt power to the pump, avoiding running a new wire.
 
There is no switch to turn off the automatic pump for a good reason. The bilge pump needs to be available 24/7 to keep your boat from sinking. I would not advise adding a switch, you could forget to turn it on or put it in the automatic position or just bumped accidentally. In your specific case the electronic float switch is likely dirty. After removing the fuse reach down to the float with a rag and clean it off. You can lift the float out it’s cradle to get a little better access for cleaning if needed. Reinstall the fuse and you should be good to go.

Curt
 
I am well aware that bilge pump should be ready to activate and move water overboard. Thats why it is wired directly off the battery ahead of the battery switches. I am also aware of the need to disable the pump in the event of a short circuit or as in my case a faulty float swich that did not shut down which would have eventually run the battery down or burned out or blown the fuse thus rendering the pump useless.I have owned boats continually for over sixty five years one which a Pearson 36 sloop and a Transpac Eagle Trawler and both had factory wired run/off/auto switches on the bilge pump circuit.When leaving your boat it is a good policy to check all your circuits breakers and switches.You might also check Nigel Calders book on Marine electrical wiring .There are detailed wiring diagrams of run/off/auto circuits for bilge pumps.
Pura Vida Larry
 
My humbe apologies I got Caldsers book out and he does show a manual / auto circuit but he doesn't mention the off position.
once again Pura Vida Larry
 
Pure Vida Larry,

No need to apologize. I can understand your desire to add an off switch. Removing the fuse to turn the bilge pump completely off is a pain!

Safe travels,

Curt
 
synergy":28kxbhux said:
We love our 2008 R 25 and although it is a challenge to add wiring or plumbing because of lack of access I have always managed to get it done. But something I was aware of some time ago became necessary for me to correct today as I was moving the boat on her trailer enough rain water in the bilge started the pump. After evacuating all the water it could reach it failed to shut down. I don't know if my boat was miss wired or all the early 25s are the same, but the switch in the DC panel only overrides the float switch.There should be a double throw auto/manual/off switch.the only way to stop a runaway pump is to ether remove the inline fuse at the battery or cut the wire at the pump.Fortunately last time I ran wiring from the transom to the DC panel I included a pull string ,so I will now will in the extra wire and replace the switch .
The sensor requires regular maintenance. Make sure it is clean and free of oil film etc. Sometimes a dirty sensor will not work at all because of the film. I also found that sometimes if the check valve is not maintained it gets stuck open and water keeps coming back into the bilge and hence the pump will continue to run. And then other times it just won't shut off for some reason. I found in this instance that a quick on and off of the manual switch stops it. Also, when the boat is on the trailer quite often the pitch does not allow the water to drain properly and the pump continues to run. As a safety precaution I always remove the drain plug and in-line fuse when on the trailer. Note to self put "install bilge plug and fuse in" on your pre-launch checklist. 😀
 
knot flying, thank you for mentioning the keel drain plug.We do keep Synergy on her trailer and I will make that part of our check list prior to launching.
 
Back
Top