Bilge pump failed; NOT so fast

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Jcat2010

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Sep 4, 2022
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Fluid Motion Model
R-27 (Outboard)
Vessel Name
Barchetta
Just a note for those who might think their automatic bilge pump has failed and needs to be replaced, pause a moment and check a few things. It might be the wiring. My aft rule 27sa was not working on automatic. The manual override worked fine, but no whizzing noise every 2.5 minutes. Thought the pump electronics had died. During troubleshooting confirmed voltage to the automatic wire was at the fuse panel. Started looking for the splice between the tug wiring and the pump wires (comes with something like 2 feet of wire leads, so the splices can be made above the bilge water level. Found the slices about 2 inches from the pump. I'm sure there's a reason the factory cut the long leads that come with the pump, and made the splice down in the wet area of the bilge, but I'm not smart enough to figure it out.

Replaced the failed splice with waterproof crimp, double wrapped, and voila! The pump auto feature is back. Until the other splices fail.
 
hello,

I am having exactly the same problem on my R29CB. I just put it back in the water, got back to my slip and was not hearing the 2.5 minute buzz, but they worked on the toggle switches (???). I'm going to look for splices if I can contort myself enough to see something down there.

Thanks for the post. 😛

Morgan
 
If it helps any...first check to see if your bilge pump fuse, the fuse block that's always on, it intact. If you have the Rule 27SA or similar, you can pop the pump (white/Red) loose from the base (blue) by squeezing the blue tabs on the side. You'll have to maybe cut a few zip ties to loosen the cable sheath to be able to maneuver the pump to where its easier to work on. Cut off the black electrical tape, and pull the wires out through the slot in the sheath. If like mine the splices are about 2 inches from the pump. cut the brown wire on the "boat" side and check for voltage, if you have voltage, then snip out the splice and strip some insulation and reconnect the brown wires. The pump should "bump" right away, and every couple of minutes. Then just get the waterproof splices and crimp in a new one. Heat shrink the splice, And wrap it all up so it makes a right angle "up" from the pump, rather than "down" into the bilge. Snap the pump back down and have a drink to celebrate.
 
I will give all that a try.

Side question, based on your boat name do you happen to own a Ferrari? A Barchetta, Ferrari is a very famous car, and Barchetta also means "Little boat".

Thanks
 
No Ferrari, their barchetta was famous though the term is more generic. Any open top, two seater is a barchetta. We chose Barchetta because it means little boat, rimorchiatore ( tugboat) just was too unwieldy. Also one of my favorite Rush songs, circling back to the sports car.
 
I wish I had read this before I replaced my propane solenoid today, which 'failed' last weekend. After replacing it and it still not working, I realized that the splice had failed, not the solenoid. Given the splice was between the propane locker and the stern, I'm not surprised that it failed in hindsight. At least I have a new solenoid and splice now.

Always check the electrical before the component.
 
If the splice has corroded/failed, make sure you cut back the insulation until you find bright copper color wire. Black wire indicates that water/salt had traveled up the wire, and the wire is beginning to be compromised, green wire is trouble 😱 That means not able to carry the full amps required. In the short term the pump will work because the house wire was larger than the draw required. The electrical gurus may give a fuller explaination.
 
One of my automatic bilge pumps wasn’t cycling every 2.5 minutes. It would work on manual. When I looked closely at the pump, I could hear the “click” every 2.5 minutes but no spinning. I pulled the pump from the base, cleared some debris, and then it started working again with the full spin every 2.5 minutes.
 
Update on bilge pump problem. I was able to get both pumps to cycle but the forward pump failed again after a day or two. I finally just replaced both pumps with a "Rule 1100 GPH Rule-Mate Automatic Bilge Pump, Model 19298454" which, I am told, is the pump Ranger now puts on their boats. It has a water sensor so it does not cycle on every 2.5 minutes, which if you thin about it , is a lot of on and offs.

Seems to be working. Fingers crossed.
 
I have just replaced the aft, primary bilge pump on our 2019 R31 CB for the second time in nine months.

The pump is the originally installed Rule Model 27SA, 1100 GPH and before replacing I did check manual operation then fuses and then once removed check on a direct supply and still the pump did not work.

I think the cycling every 2.5 minutes has to be a factor in the failure. Rule is replacing the second pump without question once I sent the id number off the pump as there is a 3 year warranty.

One helpful note is the second time I replaced the pump I realized it was easiest to disconnect the hose from the check valve, which allowed the pump to be removed with the hose attached.

Another comment is by replacing with the exact pump was easy as the mounting plate was the same and could just snap in. It is hard to tell from the photos of the newer model with the water sensor if this is possible. Not a big deal but every little bit helps at times.

Another note from this lesson is to make sure you are checking your pumps on a regular basis.
With all of that said if this model fails again I will replace with the newer model with the water sensor.
 
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