Biocides and Fuel Conditioners

abcandjrc

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
363
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C SE
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2160D707
Vessel Name
Little Lady (2007)
We have grown some bugs in our diesel over the years. Our first experience was in moving our Crealock 37 down the Tenn-Tom Waterway to salt water after lying idle in Lake Guntersville for much of a winter. We had treated the fuel with a biocide, which brand I do not recall, so my skepticism of those is alive and well. I started to see large fluctuations in the tach as the fuel filter started grabbing the bugs out of the fuel. We made it to a marina which had a shop and I asked about having the fuel "polished" which was coming on strong as a solution at the time. An expensive solution.

The owner said to just replace the filter, and keep a few on hand. I knew what he told me, but it didn't really connect until he 'splained it to me. Diesels move more fuel through the filter than the engine consumes. The balance is returned to the tank. That means there is continuous "polishing" of the fuel going on. The only trick is to keep spares on board, and know how to change one and bleed the air from the lines if necessary.

The Crealock had an electric pump installed in the line. That is one addition which is a real help. Ours was in-line but was valved to allow fuel to flow through when it was not running. We kept it turned off during normal operation to reduce wear-and-tear on it. The pump we used as a #EP12B, a common OEM pump, which is available at most auto parts stores. When changing filters I could just turn it on for a minute or two and the system would self-bleed. Yanmars are pretty forgiving of small amounts of air as long as they did not die of total fuel starvation.

We did stir up the bugs which had been in hiding (sticking to the bottom and baffles) in large numbers once while crossing to The Bahamas in heavy seas. I was able to change a filter in minutes so just dove into the engine compartment, swapped one out, and we were eating conch burgers in a couple hours. Dual filters with a change-over valve would have been quicker, of course. But if real-estate was at a premium I would go for the electric pump as my first choice as an addition.

Our Atlantic 44 had Ford-Lehman engines and Lehman did recommend using Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel. That sounds about like snake-oil to me, but those folks knew engines. We did use it all the time we had the boat. It was a top-end lubricant, not a biocide, of course.

RE the comments about filters, the Atlantic did have large, switchable, primary fuel filters. I never had to switch them. How's that for irony?

As to concerns that the vent is always open so bugs grow faster, see my solution to that at:

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'Bugs' don't grow in diesel... They grow in water...
If you have 'bugs' and you add a biocide you are putting a band aid over a problem that will just keep coming back...
Get rid of the water and you will not need the band aid and the problem won't come back...
If you have a large tank and the boat is gong to sit idle for an extended period, then make up your own polishing system that will run on a timer...
Check the back issues of Passage Maker Magazine for ideas...

I would (being poor - or cheap, if you prefer) not build a permanent polishing system into the fuel system - which is expensive... Using hoses fed into the tank through a filler neck or a hatch you can assemble a temporary system that you set up when the boat is idle and you remove when boating season comes back around... Timers will cycle the pump...
Or you can unhook the lines going to your boat filters and hook those lines to your temporary pump and filter set up...
Go to harbor freight or Tractor Supply and look at their pumps rated for gasoline... These should be safe for unattended use with diesel...
You can get inexpensive filters made for farm or industrial use... If you want something high class, get a Gulf Coast Filter, the one that takes a roll of paper towel or the toilet paper one - or buy their complete pump and filter setup mounted on a base board...
 
Actually, I was just trying to make a home for a bit of "hijacking" that was done in another thread. 🙂

Most of us who don't burn 25 gallons/hour don't keep our tanks topped up. Burning 2 gallons a day in an R-21 does not require a stop at a fuel pump after each use. Even two turbocharged Lehmans did not burn enough in the Atlantic to make it worth while on daytrips or short cruises. At 4 gallons/hour when you have 400 gallon tankage, you just don't keep them topped off. Therefore, condensation is inevitable, followed by "bugs".

The primary point I was making is that if one maintains his on-board filter system and is willing to carry spares and occasionally make a change, heroic methods are not necessary.

Also that there are a few things that can make the changes easier and quicker. Naturally, the symptoms almost always occur during or after rough conditions. But being able to correct it without going on the rocks or calling for a tow is the best way to go.

Unless external "polishing" includes lots of agitation of the contents of the tank, the algae will still be present and the next big seas will send the slime down the fuel lines. Filter clog, filter change.

My attempt to prevent air infiltration and the resultant condensation in the Ranger is to stop the vent when the boat is not being operated. That will also preclude tickets for spills at ramps on trailer boats. But condensation will happen, regardless.
 
If we can thread the intake line/hose of the pump/filter to the bottom of the tank it will clear the water without having to run a large pump that stirs the tank...
If we cannot get to the lowest part of the tank where water sits, then yes we need agitation...
 
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