Boat slips when Loading (Ranger 25)

P

PacificSon

New member
Joined
Jul 31, 2012
Messages
1
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2563K708
Vessel Name
Queen Mary
So I'm new to the Tug, we picked her up 2 weeks ago. My question to you who trailer is when you go to pull out of the water does the tug slip back ~6"? When I crank up tight to the bow the bow tends to lift as the winch is a foot higher than the bow ring. This has happened both times and when I go back in and pull tighter, (I think the ring will pull out soon), it still does the same. It takes a good hard braking to seat the boat against the roller, not I think a good Idea. Trailer is a new EZ loader made for the boat. Anyone have same issue or know what I need to change?

Thanks
Kurt
 
Kurt,

The problem is the stern of the boat is still floating when the bow hits the winch bumper. When you pull the boat out of the water the stern settles on the trailer beds and the bow rises as the geometry of the boat sitting on the trailer changes and you have the bow pulling away from the winch bumper as it rises vertically. I have been using the quick stop braking method to move the boat forward on the trailer once I get it out of the water but I agree it does not seem like a good approach for the long haul. The dealer who sold me the boat recommended this method so I suspect it is a fairly common complaint with the EZ Load trailer.

Maybe some other owners have come up with a solution.

Ken
 
I do the same thing as Ken and we've had our R27/EZLoader trailer for a little over one year. After a while you'll get a good feel for the braking techique that gets your boat to slide up on the bunks so you can finish your tie down procedure. It may not seem to be the proper technique but it does get the job done. Anyone else have any other thoughts or ideas?

Jim
 
I also have a new R25 with trailer and experience the same problem. I suspect the winch bumper is too high and needs to be lowered to be on the pivot point of the bow.
 
I have a Float-On trailer and the same thing happens. I found there are a few variables that contribute to this; the tide as it relates to the ramp angle and how far you put the trailer into the water. Most often I also resort to the " Jam on the brakes Method". At least I know I'm not alone.
 
With my Float-On trailer, Marc at Wefings Marine taught me to use the same " bump the brakes" method.
 
Me too. I use the brakes with my Float On trailer.

Phil
 
Kurt
You might try what I had to do. I marked the winch post locations, then moved the post forward 4 or 5 in. After retreiving the boat, move the post back. After a few times you should be able to hit your mark.
 
First of all this is a geometry issue , and it will occur with any trailer on a steep ramp . The braking [Newtons Laws] method works well , but lately we have been experimenting with Electric Winches to pull the boat up as its being pulled up the ramp. You need wet or lubricated bunks and a strong winch stand and some mechanical sensibility , but it looks to be promising for getting the trailer and boat together .
Marc
 
On an a steep ramp it is geometry... Cut out some cardboard to make a boat outline with the curve of the bow keel and a trailer/winch outline and experiment with a piece of string... As you lift out of the water the bow area contacts the bunks and becomes a fulcrum point - with the boat hull level in the water and the trailer hanging down below at an angle.. As you continue to rise up the ramp more of the stern settles down onto the bunks pivoting on that front contact point, this lever arm forces the clutch on the winch to slip (or something would break)

Lowering the winch height will help on a steep ramp but handicap you on a shallow ramp where you will be trying to crush the bow down into the bunks with the winch... Having the center of pull on the winch cable at the same height as the bow eye is the only solution...

Lubricating the bunk carpet at the time you are pulling the boat and knowing that you will likely have to slam the brakes like everyone else will solve the issue...
1 http://www.boatingsolutions.com/Liquid- ... 908C0.aspx
This stuff is greased lightning - I haven't used it - the warning about launching after using it is to never unhook the boat until it is floating and a line is attached... I suspect one solution is to use it only on the bow area of the bunks and leave the carpet from the helm to the stern unlubricated...
2 Turtle Wax Express Shine Spray Wax - works good
Turtle Wax ICE Synthetic Spray Wax - and others - have not tried the synthetics
3. Pam / any spray cooking oil, canola, whatever - Pam worked for me the one time I used it
4. Bar soap - rub it on the carpet just before hauling - have not done this but I am told it works 'slick'

Two items I am looking at but have not done as yet, is a snap hook on a short chain at the king post to snap onto the bow eye as back up for the winch in case the winch brake ever slips going down the road...

And the other is a breast chain (one each side) going from the bow eye back down to the trailer frame at the first cross member (roughly even with the helm)... What this does is a snub to stop the boat from going over top (or around) the king post in a sudden stop... For the few bucks it will cost it could save you a world of grief... More on this as another topic...
 
Winch height and position are always determined by the boat / trailer relationship on flat ground [on the road] , NOT the launch ramp .The best idea for this issue other than brute force [Newtons Laws] is Roger's ,moving the winch stand forward in anticipation of the geometry issue and adjusting manually back to get the bunks or rollers [not a roller fan] even with the bottom of the boat. Dry silicone or "liquid rollers" is a good product if you are experienced . It can be somewhat dangerous if you hit the brakes too hard or forget the strap.
Marc
 
I had the same problem with my 21ec. I contacted the trailer manufacturer and asked for the bunk height and width dimensions. I had to reset both the height and width along with lowering the bow stop assembly. Trailer works like a charm.
 
HAVING HAD A SIMILAR PROBLEM WITH MY O7 R 25[OLD GUARD] WAS THE SIMPLE FACT THAT THERE WERE ABOUT 5 TOO MANY LINKS IN THE SAFETY CHAIN THAT CONNECTED RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE WINCH, WHEN YOU HAVE SUCKED THE BOAT UP AS FAR AS YOU POSSIBLY CAN ON THE TRAILER ,,.. THE HOOK ON THE CHAIN SHOULD BE SLIGHTLY DIFFICULT TO ENGAGE,, THEN WHEN PULLING OUT ON EVEN A STEEP RAMP,, YOUR TUG WON'T SLIDE BACK 4 0R 5 CRITICAL INCHES,, WHICH CAN GREATLY AFFECT THE CRITICAL TONGUE WEIGHT[ PARTICULARLY IF YOUR RIG IS 2 WHEEL DRIVE. HAVING LAUNCHED IN RURAL MEXICO, FLORIDA, TEXAS, LOUISIANA AND CALIFORNIA I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE'..CHECK THE SLOP IN YOUR SAFETY CHAIN 😉 😉 STEVE [ FORMER OWNER, CHRISTINA BEE] 😉 😉
 
I have had the same issue with my R21-EC. It falls back about 2 inches when I pull out. With the bunks wet, a good hard turn on the winch pulls it up tight.

Sweeneynd - Do you have the EZ Loader trailer? If so, do you remember what dimensions you reset your trailer to?
 
No, my trailer is a Magic Tilt. The company needed the model and serial number of the trailer, they came back with 55" width, rear height of 11 1/2" and the two other supports of 7 1/2". I then had to lower the bow stop assembly 2". I bought my Tug used without a trailer, luckily I found this trailer 200 miles away in Connecticut.
 
I have the same problem with my R27 on an EZloader trailer. Getting the safety chain tight before pulling up the ramp helps some. I would caution against applying excessive force to the winch handle The Fulton winch is designed for a maximum handle force of no more than 45 lb. i.e. one hand operation. Prior to my learning this, I damaged a model T3205 winch by applying a strong two handed force to the winch handle. The T3205 is rated at 3200lb output force on the first wrap on the nylon webbing around the drum. However this output drops to 1450 lb with a full drum. The problem is when one is pulling the boat up the last couple of inches on the trailer the winch drum is full ( 20 feet of nylon webbing) so the winch maximum output is at a minimum. The temptation is to apply excessive force to the winch handle to overcome this reduced output. I have now installed model T3700 which is rated at 3700 lb for the first wrap. Since this winch uses 3/16 inch galvanized cable, 20 feet of cable hardly fills the drum at all. Therefore one achieve high output force without excessive handle input force.
 
Sorry, i haven't responded to this subject which is dear to my heart.

I have had the same problem with my R-27 and after scaring my bride and friends to death - well almost when recovering several weeks ago and when while using the "tap the brake" method the boat came sliding PAST the winch stand about 8 inches and tried to come into the truck with us.

I quietly and very humbly advised Marc at Wefings that we had to SOLVE this problem whether by my remodeling my "float-on" trailer or getting another trailer. Sooo Marc and Float on have redesigned the winch stand and Marc, the ever so clever problem solver, has found an electric wench to mount on the redesigned stand.

I would like to tell you that all is well with the redesigned winch stand but I can't as I have been too busy to travel to Wefing's and have the new apparatus installed. Also we had a hurricane enter the picture and that screwed up a lot of calendars.

I am planning to journey to Apalachicola within the next or two (hopefully) to install said winch, test it and have Marc prepare a Gourmet Dinner and as part of the process have Marc take plenty of pictures and post them here.
 
Please do let those of who plan to buy or have R-27's in on what the fix is for the trailer issue.
 
Sounds like an expensive fix, but much easier on the boat, trailer, and truck. We have the same issue with Gratitude and have been using the move-the-winch-stand method, it's a pain, but I'm not crazy about the hit the brakes method. I feel it puts undue stress on all the systems. (just my opinion, with nothing to back it up!)
 
I never have a problem loading the boat I have now and have owned many boats that were no problem. It is just my opinion but if the trailer is set up correctly you should be able to float or drive the boat right on, tighten up the winch strap (snug against the eye) and then pull up off the ramp and get yourself ready to go?
 
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