Bottom paint on trim tabs?

[dennis41]

Wondering if anyone has tried coating the trim tabs with bottom paint. They seem to be a barnacle magnet. I know stainless is not the best substrate.

 

[iggy]

I do it ever year. You need to use a non-copper paint.

This stuff works great! https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?na ... d=2108143#

 

[rackline]

I paint everything; prop, rudder, trim tabs, and platform struts using this http://www.pettitpaint.com/products/antifouling-bottom-paint/hydrocoat/hydrocoat-eco/.

 

[dennis41]

Thanks guys, I'll give it a try. Never thought of the copper-free variety.

 

[knotflying]

I use Pettit Barnacle Barrier, which is really a cold galvanized paint in spray form, hence I switched over to a cold galvanized brush on. Easier to apply, no masking etc. and can apply a thicker coat. I also use it on my prop.

 

[baz]

Wondering if anyone has tried coating the trim tabs with bottom paint. They seem to be a barnacle magnet. I know stainless is not the best substrate.

Apart from the green crud looking awful on the trim tabs, I avoid looking at them :lol: and will soft brush the crud off maybe once every 3 months if I can think of it. The soft brush works well as what I've seen collecting on the trim tabs removes easily.

My boat is in salt water 100% of the time.

When I have underwater zincs inspected (about twice per year) my diver service does a nice job gently brushing the prop and a light brushing on the hull and along the water line, as well as trim tabs.

As an aside.... if you have the R41 I wonder if trim tabs are installed as the Volvo twin pod axis are parallel to water surface and need for trim tabs maybe unnecessary. 😱

 

[BB marine]

Wondering if anyone has tried coating the trim tabs with bottom paint. They seem to be a barnacle magnet. I know stainless is not the best substrate.

I have coated all underwater metal components on my C26. Including bronze thruster housings, bronze thru hulls, stainless steel keel shoe, stainless steel trim tabs, bronze rudder and stainless steel swim platform supports. I use Pettit products that include required metal primers and anti fouling paint. My choice was Vivid. I use this paint on the bottom and underwater gear. Vivid is a hard ablative finish, good for trailerable boats giving multiple season of protection. There are a few paints anti fouling finishes that can be applied over metal. In the Pettit line Ultima Eco, Hydrocoat Eco, ECO HRT or Vivid. None of these finishes should be applied directly to the metal. There is an application of barrier coats that need to be applied for good adhesion and corrosion protection. Is it worth doing? I hope so, but honestly I have done preparation and application but have not been in Salt water. 2020/2021 is the planned year for salt water use.(if Covid 19 gets under control) I'm still planning its a go. Most of Tug and Cut owners I know use no application to metal under water components and use their boats in salt water. I applied the application because I worked as a marine technician where boats were used in salt water ( New England waters ,Cape Cod bay, Buzzard Bay, Narragansett Bay and surrounding waters ) Under water hardware with no protection was a mess after a 4 to 5 month season! I heard it can be even worse in Florida waters. It all depends on where you boat.

Just because it is Cooper free does not mean barrier coat is not needed.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/media/4445/p ... ystems.pdf

Barrier coat applied
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=48583

Rudder and platform supports painted
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67130

Trim tabs complete coating metal primer, barrier coat and 2 coats of Vivid ablative finish. The trim tabs shown are larger tabs than factory installed Factory installed 12 x 12 . Tabs pictured are 18 x 12. The extra trim tab surface helped lowering the bow.

Factory installed tabs painted using drop fins 12 x 12 tabs painted.

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67133

The 12 x 12 with drop fins = 18 x 12

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52673

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=52679

 

[baz]

Question for y'all...... Why do you think the trim tab manufacturers advise not to paint the tabs ?

From my experience the part of the trim tab assembly that suffers the most from corrosion is the hinge and the bolts that secure the hinge plate to the transom. These areas are my main concern, and especially the bolts that penetrate the transom. Once the bolt head deteriorates to such an extent it cannot be used to remove the bolt, the bolt has to be drilled out to allow a new bolt to be installed.

 

[Red Raven]

Question for y'all...... Why do you think the trim tab manufacturers advise not to paint the tabs ?

From my experience the part of the trim tab assembly that suffers the most from corrosion is the hinge and the bolts that secure the hinge plate to the transom. These areas are my main concern, and especially the bolts that penetrate the transom. Once the bolt head deteriorates to such an extent it cannot be used to remove the bolt, the bolt has to be drilled out to allow a new bolt to be installed.

From the Bennet website:
...
Paint trim tabs to discourage marine growth
1. Clean surface of all grease, oil, dirt.
2. Apply two coats of epoxy metal primer.
3. Apply two coats of anti-fouling paint. Actuator, including the piston, may be painted.

Unpainted trim tabs may acquire an orange discoloration. THIS OXIDATION OF SURFACE CARBON MOLECULES IS NORMAL. The integrity of the stainless steel is not affected. Orange coating can be cleaned off, but may eventually return. NOTE: This discoloration should not be confused with the pitting and corrosion of electrolysis.
...

 

[BB marine]

Question for y'all...... Why do you think the trim tab manufacturers advise not to paint the tabs ?

I didn't know they advise not to paint. I spoke with Oliver customer service representative at Bennett about painting the tabs. His advise was to follow Bennett's maintenance procedure for painting the tabs.
1. Clean surface of all grease, oil, dirt.
2. Apply two coats of epoxy metal primer.
3. Apply two coats of anti-fouling paint. Actuator, including the piston, may be painted.

His advise follows the same requirements as Pettit

He also advised to confirm good continuity of anode to 304 stainless finish of the trim plane.

The weak link of the tabs is the hinge. Unfortunately the anode can only protect the surface it is attached to and has a good conection too. The hinge over period of time gets a film of oxidation (an orange rust look). This can reduce continuity and now the untreated hinge is more suspect to corrosion. If the tabs are untreated it is a good idea when replacing the anodes to also clean the hinge area with a wire brush. Use a ohm meter to test continuity from anode to hinge plate. It is also recommend the same procedure with outboards and stern drives. Test continuity between the anodes on the Lower unit, transom plate and engine ground to confirm all under water components have continuity and are protected.

Posted after another comment was posted sorry for repetitive answer.

 

[Kevinandcarol]

The R41 has a double set of trim tabs two on each side, the pods rotate but they do not trim up and down to help level the boat. I just finished ceramic coating one at the boat yard. Will post a picture of it in my album latter this evening. Kevin