C-28 Galvanic Isolator-Location

B

Bob/Bradenton

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2019
Messages
101
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Hull Identification Number
FRB02830G001
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Ranger 21 "Martini" Launch
Vessel Name
Buttercup
Had our 2019 C-28 hauled last week and to my surprise, all the zincs which were installed this past June were gone. The large prop center zinc, the pancake that I installed on the lower edge of the rudder, two zincs that I had installed on the center 1" SS tubing for the swim platform and the two pancakes that I had installed on the trim tabs were just about gone. Mid-Gulf Florida salt water.

H, we have a problem.

All the copper bottom paint, (June, '21) was gone from the prop and some on the rudder and trim tabs. Not a good thing. So it looks like my dock is leaky just a bit. I've ordered from Zincs.Com a reference anode that is used with a multimeter to test for leakage and have just received a new ProMariner Galvanic Isolator which should help with the dissolving zincs til I can figure out the leakage.

Has any C-28 owner installed a Galvanic Isolator and where? I can't locate any of the shore wires that run from behind the shore power inlet but I removed the AC electrical panel and there is a three wire bundle (white jacket with the normal heavier black/white/green wires). This bundle has a hand written tag: "Shore Panel". I am assuming that this is the main inlet cable from the shore inlet.

The instructions for the Galvanic Isolator state to install the unit as close to the shore power inlet as possible, interrupting the green/ground wire with the unit. But since I can't locate the cables, it looks like a good place to mount it would be under the AC panel in the cave and cut the green/ground behind the panel and run it through the bottom of the panel box to the isolator and back. Any comments/thoughts on this?

Thanks, Bob/Bradenton

PS: The reason for the haul-out was to replace the bow thruster leg and both trim tab actuators. I suspect the kids of the former owner "played" with the switches a bit too much. Easy to replace both. Also painted the faded dark blue propane box on the swim platform, white. Also moved those barnacle attracting blue LED underwater lights, up under the swim platform for mostly the same effect, but out of the water so no more barnacles. And one more, I cut out the bottom of the rear seat tray where the two 6" ports were located. The trim tab/engine hatch pump is deep down there to the left and to refill the pump tank, this makes a large opening so both hands can get down there. Used a cheap empty ketchup/mustard squeeze bottle with its long nozzle to refill the pump tank, very tiny filler hole.
 
I’m not familiar with your C28 but I would think there should be access to the interior area of the hull where your dock side power cord gets attached. The galvanic isolator should be connected between there and before your battery charger/inverter. On our recently sold R29S we installed ours in the starboard side locker where the shore side wires come into the hull interior. Hopefully some C28 owners will reply.

Jim
 
I too am interested in where others have put them. Timing for this topic is perfect as I was planning to install mine later this week. I was going to install mine either below the oven or in the port locker. The green wire runs through the locker round the back of the divider panel to the ELCI breaker below the propane oven. My though is to put it in line before the breaker. Anyone who knows more have a better suggestion?
 
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These photos are located under the Microwave in the lower cabinet. This is an easy place to make the connection for the galvanic isolator because there is already a terminal strip installed and the (greeen) ground is connected at the terminal strip because the ELCI breaker is located in the location.
I mounted a 1/2" piece of plywood and mixed up some gelcoat to match. the factory gelcoat and mounted the isolator to it.
 
Ours (on a 2020 C28) was installed in the port locker.
 
Photo in our album under 'modifications'. Piece of cake.
 
I put mine under the microwave in the little cabinet area there. Was an easy install.
 
Hey Bob,
I also had issues similar to yours with my C28 when docked at Regatta Pointe Marina, Bradenton. I have since moved it to rack storage which helped stop the problem.
Before moving it I did install a galvanic isolator in the port side rear locker, mounted vertically, using a 1/2" piece of starboard and stainless L brackets. As BB marine said, it's a very easy install.
I used the ProSafe 30 and it significantly reduced the breakdown of the zincs. I can send you a picture if you'd like.
Terry
 
Hi Terry,

That's my preference to locate the Isolator back there in the rear/port compartment where the batteries are located and very close to the shore power inlet fixture. But, while I see bundles of wires/cables attached to the top of the compartment, I can't see where that shore power AC cable is located as it goes from the inlet fixture through the boat over to the AC switch panel.

I just did a post on the CW Factory page here about mounting it under the interior AC switch panel. I asked them if the white cable bundle entitled "Shore Panel" is the one that goes directly back to the shore power inlet fixture.

Thanks, Bob/Bradenton
 
It's difficult to locate. I had to remove the shore power inlet connection to eventually find the wiring. It was contained in a cable protector tucked up inside the hull/liner seam. I also had to remove the cable clamps to drop the bundle down and get into the cover. It is a green colored wire that had more than enough slack to connect to the isolator so no extra wire was needed.
I see you live in the same area, if you'd like I could give you a hand. That's what neighbors do!
Terry
 
Hi Terry,

I spoke to Kenny at Cutwater yesterday and he suggested the installation of the Isolator in that Port rear hatch area like you did. There are so many AC white cable bundles in this boat, if it is installed somewhere else, it might be the incorrect cable, therefore as both you and Kenny said, as close to the shore input plug as possible.

And yes, I'd like some assistance with this so I'll be in touch. I've got another issue going on (per my other post this morning) and I've got to get that sorted out first.

I'll do some poking in that cabinet and try to locate the cable.

Thanks, Bob/Bradenton
 
Updates: Mounted the ProMariner Galvanic Isolator in the Port rear hatch area on the bulkhead. Extended the Green/Ground wires to fit. Located the cable bundle tucked up under the floor, clipped the wire ties and then stripped the white sheath from the main AC input cable. Much easier than I thought.

As noted, in four months, all the new zincs were gone along with the new Trinidad bottom paint on the trim tabs, rudder and prop. Not good.

Bought from Boat Zincs . Com, a "Corrosion Reference Electrode" which is a silver electrode attached to a 25' cable that you plug into the Negative side of your multimeter. The Positive probe goes to the engine block or a good ground. The electrode goes into the water next to the boat. The meter is put on DC 2 volts and you read the mV. For my boat the acceptable reading is -550 mV to -1100 mV. Without the shore power cable plugged in, I was in the -970 mV range. Good.

When you plug the shore power cable in, if you have a -10 mV drop, you've got an electrical leak problem. If you have a -100 mV drop, you've got a huge leak. Mine read over -300 mV drop. As noted, "H, we've got a problem".

No idea yet whether the leak is from the boat (2019 C-28) or from my dock or a neighbor's dock. I'll check all of my green bonding cables first.

BUT, the big deal is that once I installed the Galvanic Isolator, and plugged the shore power in, the reading was right back to the acceptable -970 mV. Perfect.

So I'd highly recommend these gizmos (Isolator and the Electrode). Especially for outboard boats. (Mine is an inboard diesel). Might save an outdrive...Bob/Bradenton
 
Bob,
Excellent news. I swear by the isolator. After traveling to, and staying in, multiple marinas I never have had an issue with zincs disappearing after installing it. Before I put it in I was replacing them regularly.
I am glad it worked out for you!

Terry
 
I am joining the Galvanic Isolator bandwagon for my 2021 C-28. Edmonds is known to be a "hot" marina. I understand the port stern locker seems to be the favored location for installation. I'm curious what wire guage is appropriate for this install. I was planning on pulling the wire directly from the female side of the shore power connection and running a pair of wires to the unit in the locker. Is wire size critical?

TIA
Fred Juhos
C-28 BlueJ-2
Edmonds, WA
 
FredJ":2td66kr2 said:
I am joining the Galvanic Isolator bandwagon for my 2021 C-28. Edmonds is known to be a "hot" marina. I understand the port stern locker seems to be the favored location for installation. I'm curious what wire guage is appropriate for this install. I was planning on pulling the wire directly from the female side of the shore power connection and running a pair of wires to the unit in the locker. Is wire size critical?

TIA
Fred Juhos
C-28 BlueJ-2
Edmonds, WA
Click to expand...

It should be the same as the gauge of the AC Triplex wire. I think it's either 12 or 10 gauge...
 
Thanks Bob. Is that multi strand or solid copper?
 
Last question...for today. Any problem with putting the unit before the ground interrupt alarm that lives under the stove?
 
I can't speak to that part, as my boat is slightly different. Hopefully someone else can chime in there. I have the C30, and I installed mine in the cabinet directly under the cockpit control station in the cockpit, at the entry of the shore power inlet.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/043LO-c ... gIFmqPF7JQ
 
I just installed mine below the cooler in the bottom storage compartment. Very easy to run the wires. Ronnie Gonzales is the salesman for the Cutwater dealer in Bellingham and he directed to the installation spot. Thanks again Ronnie
 
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