C30 in Florida Environment

RVr2

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2013
Messages
8
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Cutwater 30
General information on our C30's survival in hot, humid Florida.

Air Conditioner(s) - setting your thermostat at 73 degrees and running the AC continuously while in a slip will cause the system to become a block of ice. The AC will run but no air will be coming out of the ducts. After a careful checkout by a professional maritime AC tech and the system pronounced healthy (the ice had melted) he suggested to never run the AC continuously with the thermostat lower than 78 degrees. Florida's high humidity will cause ice formation on the AC. His recommendation has been spot on.

Wine Cooler Fridge - The onboard wine cooler fridge is vented to the closed storage bin under the Captains seat. This does NOT afford enough cool air to circulate around the fridge. Florida's high THI (Temperature Humidity Index) creates a problem. The wine cooler fridge is not maritime rated and is an enclosed system. We now tape the storage bin door open to allow cool AC air into the fridge compartment. However, we still can't get desired temperature within the fridge down to our liking. Cutwater needs to review this problem.

Overhead Hatches - Florida being in the lower latitudes has nearly direct overhead incoming solar radiation. To help lower inside temperatures and sun fading we had the overhead hatches tinted with Presidential Standard Tint. This has helped tremendously. We did not tint the windshield or side windows.

Windshield and Side Windows - We replaced the factory provided window canvas with SUNBRELLA mesh custom designed for our C30. We also had canvas covers made for the ship's horn, searchlight, electric winch and jack staff. All work was done by a local sail maker. The canvas covers protect the items from the sun's rays, excessive heat and sudden cooling by the daily thundershowers.

Sacrificial Anode Zinc - High salinity, high water temps, electrical energy in the marina, and maybe excess bonding of our C30 has resulted in the prop shaft and thruster zincs to last less than 4 months. We have purchased an over the side zinc fish which connects to the negative terminal of a battery. We are monitoring the prop and thruster zincs to see if it helps.

Canvas Covered Cockpit - We have decided to leave the canvas up during the summer to shelter the side and transom seats, eliminate direct sunlight through the glass companion door into the cabin, provide protection from the local daily thundershowers. It also provides us with an evening "back porch" for visiting.

Thermo Gun - We use the tool to measure temperature differences through out the boat, i.e HVAC vents, cabin/berth hot spots, sea surface temperature, engine hose weaknesses, ambient air temp, fridge temps, etc. Not an expensive item and provides a lot of information.

More to come.
 
A couple of comments :
The airconditioner on the R29 has a deicing setting (probably same unit as Cutwater)..its detailed in the manual..quite a few threads on that topic.
Wine Cooler-Just replaced mine. It is a very inexpensive device that is cooled using a thermoelectric device (very inefficient) not the traditional compressor. If you want a $1000 cooler versus a $100 one they are available.
Sacrificial Anodes - In Southern Ca waters 65-75 deg F, 4 months is about average, maybe 6 months. As water temp goes up so does the deterioration of the zincs. We have a Galvanic Isolator which is a must.
 
I found this video interesting about galvanic isolators. For $150 seems like a solid low cost investment to protect your boat while on shore power
 
Back
Top