I think a lot of confusion on the forum comes from the conversion from AC amps back to DC amps since the batteries is what supply the inverter the power. And then there are components that only work on DC. The answer depends on which portion of the circuit people are speaking about.Martin610":33emsxvt said:Some context may be helpful.
A 4 bedroom house typically has has 150 amp service. The whole house.
Most fluid motion boats have 30 amp service, some have 50. All the wiring in the boat is gauged for that amount. Higher than that breakers blow and wires melt.
That helps you figure out where upper and lower limits would have to be. Most of the appliances on the FM boats are going to be 20 amps or less. Exceptions might be the stove top and AirCon that need 25 amps.
Do you recall which setting you changed and to what? Sometimes my microwave runs for a few seconds and then quits. If I keep trying it will eventually work. I don’t use it much off shore/generator power so I haven’t the details crisp in mind. I know your details were different than mine but maybe I will learn something.serpa4":16s0ekl9 said:Finally figured how to get micro to run on the inverter. It was an inverter setting. I DO have the 1000watt with convection. On the actual victron shunt, it pulls 130 amps. The convection was less at 116 amps 12v DC.
That seems about right. Microwaves are normally rated by output power (sometimes referred to as “cooking power”). The input power is greater because of inefficiencies. Our 700 watt Mauve actually has an input power of 1150 watts. If we use that same ratio, a 1000 watt microwave would actually draw about 1,643 watts. At 12.5VDC that works out to about 131 amps from the battery bank, which is almost exactly what you measured.serpa4":1rsumlyx said:Microwave, 1000 watts, pulls 130 DC amps according to the Victron BMV gauge.
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