Cannot keep C30 up against bow stop when loading.

[serpa4]

When I load my C30 on the trailer, I always power load it. I usually motor up slowly till the bow eye is against the roller. Then I use the winch to very tightly keep the boat against the roller.
However, when I pull the boat out and get to level ground, the boat bow is now 4 inches away from the roller. I really winch it tight, but it still moves away from the roller when I pull the boat out of the water.
I drive for quite awhile and it over a hundred miles eventually moves forward.
I suppose I can do a brake check and slam on the brakes to move the boat forward, but you all think of another way to get the bow to stay up on the roller when loading?

 

[BB marine]

Before loading the boat on the trailer I move the winch stand 3" forward. I load the boat on the trailer with the bow up against the winch stand roller. When I pull the boat out and it is sitting on level ground the bow is 3" back. I then slide the winch stand back to its original over the road position and the bow is against the bow roller. I tighter the winch strap just snug. I use a ratchet strap bow eye to trailer base and 2 ratchet straps at the stern eyes to the trailer base and I'm ready to go down the road.

 

[serpa4]

Before loading the boat on the trailer I move the winch stand 3" forward. I load the boat on the trailer with the bow up against the winch stand roller. When I pull the boat out and it is sitting on level ground the bow is 3" back. I then slide the winch stand back to its original over the road position and the bow is against the bow roller. I tighter the winch strap just snug. I use a ratchet strap bow eye to trailer base and 2 ratchet straps at the stern eyes to the trailer base and I'm ready to go down the road.

You literally move the winch stand? 3 U-bolts?
I also, I use a ratchet strap bow eye to trailer base . Helps with bouncing.

 

[BB marine]

Before loading the boat on the trailer I move the winch stand 3" forward. I load the boat on the trailer with the bow up against the winch stand roller. When I pull the boat out and it is sitting on level ground the bow is 3" back. I then slide the winch stand back to its original over the road position and the bow is against the bow roller. I tighter the winch strap just snug. I use a ratchet strap bow eye to trailer base and 2 ratchet straps at the stern eyes to the trailer base and I'm ready to go down the road.

You literally move the winch stand? 3 U-bolts?
I also, I use a ratchet strap bow eye to trailer base . Helps with bouncing.

Yes, I have a socket and ratchet set up in my truck tool box. Doing this so many times there are marks on the tongue - loading winch stand position and my over the road winch stand position. I takes me about 2 minutes to slide it forward. I move it back after wiping the boat down and when installing my bow ratchet strap hold downs.

There are many that do the Ranger bump. Hit the brakes hard to slide it forward. I don't do that for (2) reasons (1) It doesn't work with my trailer. I have a custom trailer with a lot more bunk surface than the standard ez loader trailer. (2) I am reluctant to do this because the exhaust muffler can has water in it. I'm worried that a hard slam of the brakes enough to slide the boat forward on the trailer could slosh enough of that water from the can to get into the turbo and exhaust of the engine.

 

[Boatdreamer]

I do the exact same thing Brian does. I almost never power it up on the trailer because I’m alone most of the time so I back the trailer in as deep as I can and float the boat as far forward as I can then winch it up from there. After I’m out of the water and out of everyone else’s way I move the winch stand back to the bow and tighten everything down. I NEVER do the “Ranger Tug bump” too many ways things can go wrong plus it puts unnecessary stress on the whole rig. Moving the winch stand only takes a few extra minutes and I know everything is tight and safe.

Tim and Donna
Gratitude

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Before we sold our R29S I did the same as the others have posted. If you plan on trailering away from your home waters you’ll find many places prohibit powering a boat up onto a trailer. The reason I’ve heard is that the prop wash erodes the seabed at the end of the ramp pad.

Jim F

 

[Chriscz128]

On a previous boat, I had the same issue, depending on the angle of the boat launch and tide stage. The steeper the boat launch the worse the ending separation was. I would snug the boat up initially, then pull the boat and trailer forward about halfway out, so the stern of the boat would drop , then retighten. The trick was finding the right amount to pull forward up the boat ramp. Too little and the stern has not dropped enough, too much and the boat was resting too much on the bunks making winching forward too difficult. It doesn't fully solve the problem but reduced the space significantly. Its all about the angles (boat, water, trailer).

 

[S. Todd]

Our R25SC and now our R29S behave the same way. As the stern settles on the bunks from its floating position there is a separation from the bow stop. I pull slowing out of the water and hopefully the muffler drains as much as necessary gong up the ramp. We spray the bunks with liquid rollers ( four cans did our R29 trailer) to facilitate the "Ranger Slid" once on level ground a quick stop and the boat slides up to the bow stop. (Never tried it without liquid rollers because we give it the first spray when we pick up the boat new and re-spray on occasion when bucks appear to be getting less slippery. It helps getting the boat off too without having to put the truck in the water as deep.) I do it relatively gently and sometimes too gently so it takes a second stop. If that effort causes water to get into the engine, how does one possibly stop going down the road when some other driver cuts you off because they are oblivious to the effort to stop such a load? My dealer does the same thing and no one I know of has ever had a problem with this method. I can't argue with moving the bow stop method as it seems like another way to accomplish the same thing.

 

[BB marine]

I pull slowing out of the water and hopefully the muffler drains as much as necessary gong up the ramp.

The installation and design of the Muffler used in the Rangers and Cutwaters does not drain. The only way it drains is if the owner removes the drain plug located at the bottom of the can.

If that effort causes water to get into the engine, how does one possibly stop going down the road when some other driver cuts you off because they are oblivious to the effort to stop such a load? My dealer does the same thing and no one I know of has ever had a problem with this method

The answer to your question is the same thing could happen in such a situation. Most try to avoid over the road hard braking for more reason than having sea water migrate into the exhaust system and engine. The bottom line is if one does do a heavy high speed braking the possibility of sea water migration does exist.

There were issues with this on early day Ranger models that did not have the " water back up nub" glassed into the muffler can. This helps to stop the water from backing up the exhaust hose and getting to the elbow, Turbo and exhaust manifold. It does not eliminate the chance. The only way to eliminate the chances of this is to drain the can when trailering.

This photo shows the "Nub" below the exhaust inlet to the muffler.
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=70780


Because a dealer does it does not mean it is right. If I followed all the advise of the dealer I would ...........


If you had sea water migration what issues would you experience? Worst case is the can emptied seawater into the exhaust system and then flooded a cylinder causing a hydrolock if started shortly after flooding. Over time water drains past the rings and causes oxidation of the cylinder walls. This should be detected at some point if enough water was ingested. You must be looking for it though. In most cases I would not expect that much water to migrate but the possibility of water making to the turbine side of the turbo (exhaust side) is possible. This will cause rust and corrosion build up in the wheel area. The eventual failure would be loss of boost pressure. My point is the statement "no one I know has ever had a problem doing this" May be true but sometimes things happen and you don't know that it happened. I have heard of many Turbos failing to produce boost? What was the cause? How many Ranger and Cutwater owners do oil sampling ? If you are one that does and a report elevated % of water and a increase in Iron PPM particulates. What caused this? The next time the oil was changed and sampled everything is back to normal. What caused the increase? Who knows and it is forgotten.

My point, the possibility exists because of the low mounted engine, the exhaust (Muffler Can) close to the engine and the long exhaust hose to the thru hull in the Ranger or Cutwater. For that reason if I am asked the question, in this thread I give my opinion. I would not do the Ranger bump unless I drained the can because of the POSSIBILITY of sea water migration into the exhaust system plus all the other added stresses to the equipment. Sometimes actions done today do not show results from those cations today.They show up at a later time. Preventative is the key word!

S. Todd I respect your opinion and agree it is the opinion of many. I am answering your questions based on my opinion. Right or wrong!

 

[S. Todd]

Brian: I always enjoy your detailed posts on this forum.
In my case, at the end of every season when I change engine oil and transmission fluid I send them in for oil analysis and have had no issues. Your comments raise an interesting point about draining the muffler as the only real way to prevent the unintended hydrolock. Is that something you do every time before trailering? If the drain plug at the bottom of the muffler is designed so that it can be removed and reinstalled on a regular basis, that would seem easier than moving the bow stop and would prevent that dirty water from sitting there for weeks at a time and eliminate the possibility of its migration in the event of a rapid stop especially on a down hill grade. I have never drained the muffler, but could easily incorporate that into our trailering home preparations.

 

[BB marine]

The drain plug is at the bottom of the exhaust can muffler. It is not the easiest to get to on my C26 may be easier to get to R29. The issue with the removals is it requires attention to detail when reinstalling. The threads are just cut into the fiberglass. Very easy to cross thread. I did remove the drain plug for the first couple of years of trailering to prevent the back flow of water to the exhaust system in the event of a quick OH S _ _ _ on the highway. Knock on wood it has never happened. I quit doing it because the removal is a PIA to do every time at a launch ramp. The moving of the winch stand literally takes 2 minutes before and two minutes after loading the boat. It is just part of loading the boat on the trailer for me.

 

[PanaSeaAh]

Chris0128 said "it's all about angles". I agree totally. After watching this thread, I decided to look at options to the "bump", also known as "scare-the-cxxx-out-of-the-guy-next-to-you-at-the-ramp". :shock:
* Because of where my winch mast/bow stop is mounted on my trailer, it can only be adjusted 3/4 of an inch. Moving that is not an option.
* Decided to try the other method, finding the point where the boat and trailer are at the same angle, and then re-tightening the winch cable. When the boat settled on the bunks and SOME of the weight was on the trailer I stopped and re-tightened the winch cable and the boat pulled right up to the bow stop. Even better, when I got up and level, it was still against the stop. In my case, the boat would still move forward when the trailer fenders were about 4 inches out of the water at the front of the fender. Makes it easy to gage the position where this works best. The bunks are wet, the boat weight is reduced by the stern being in the water, and I would think it will be easier on the bunks also. 😀
LIfe is good, especially on this forum.