carrying kayak

dreamer*65

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Messages
101
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
I don't have access to my R 27 right now for measuring but I am planning on buying a kayak to add. I've searched in the forum, but can't find specifics on the boat's cargo rack measurements and would like to know. The kayak is 13' long and 36" at the midsection tapering down of course fore and aft. I would like to carry it starboard side, but will that width fit on my R 27 cargo rack without my sonar stack or antenna getting in the way? I could switch my top portside solar panel to the starboard side and the kayak on the port? Thanks.
 
We carry a Hobie Kona(11' 6") on our roof racks using Malone vertical mounts. Fits great without changing anything on the roof.

We started with a 13" kayak on top (Hobie Mirage), then went to the 11' because of the weight. One word of caution - it can be a challenge to get it up and down. You have to bring the kayak to the bow, raise the kayak up to the bow rails (two-person operation) then work it back onto the roof. Opposite to launch.

Best of luck!
 
If you are talking about an R27 Classic the space between the faux smoke stack and the antenna is 33 inches. For that reason we keep our kayak on the port side. Alternatively vertical mounts would work.
 
Always the thanks. Just what I needed to know.

The kayak I am looking at is 65 pounds. There will be two of us to hump it up and down. On a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being a pain in the a - - , and 1 being "no big deal", what am I looking at . . .?

Cheers.
 
For my wife and I it was any 6 or 7. The difficult part is balancing on the side of the boat on a narrow ledge while the boat is rocking and severely listing while wrestling trying to tie the kayak down to the vertical mounts with one hand and holding on with the other. Windy days compound the task. Pads are needed to be laid on the bow and windshield brow to avoid damaging them while working the boat up onto the mounts.

Younger folks will undoubtedly have an easier go at it. We even tried mounting it on the swim step rails across the stern with Malone J mounts. That was a disaster : / Going slow was fine - faster the stern wave would catch the kayak and cause all kinds of havoc.

We loved the mobility, the quiet, and the fun factor of the kayak; but now, we installed a dinghy on the swim step and use that instead.

Anyone want a like new set of Malone J kayak mounts for $50?
 
In our case we have a 17 ft 45 lb inflatable. Much easier and no fear of damage to the boat! Probably a 5 out of 10 for us!
 
I have a 14 ft inflatable dingy/kayak which perfectly on the roof with the fake chimney inside the boat between pontoons. Currently building a frame to let me fold it off the roof and then lower it down port side all by push button thus avoiding to climb on the roof and juggling a 60lb object. The dingy is upside down to prevent water collecting inside from either rain or some wild water.
 
Following the principle that the easier it is to deploy, the more use it will get (and the less damage to either boat or body), we initially tried loading our 65 lb. polyurethane kayak on the sport rack and realized far too much effort was required. Instead we purchased a “new technology” (drop stitch) inflatable Sea Eagle Razorlite kayak. Measures 12’10” long and 28” wide, and exactly half the weight at just 33 lb. Dimensions fit very easily on either side on the sport racks. I load from the bow, upside down. Best part is I easily do this as a one-person loading operation. So easy, we deploy daily upon dropping anchor, partly to allow full sun exposure to the solar panel.

One modification we made is installing two vertical stainless steel posts which act as a second set of hands as I slide the kayak from bow toward stern. I have replicated this on both port and starboard, and stow a similar “drop stitch” inflatable Tower SUP board on the starboard side. The SUP board weighs all of 25 lb., so light I can even lift up using just one hand!

If you are thinking “inflatable” means cheap or inferior performance, familiarize yourself with drop stitch technology, which allows inflation to over 10 psi. This is not a child’s pool toy! At 10 psi these boats inflate almost hard as a rock, very rigid, and paddle great! And they get USED A LOT because they are both easy to deploy and a joy to paddle. Stability? We bring our 70 lb. Golden Retriever along in / on either one!
 
We also found loading our lovely handmade wooden kayaks on the roof was just way to much work, beautiful as they were to admire and paddle. Switched to a double inflatable which we simply haul over the stern rails while underway and tie off in the cockpit. When we arrive at our destination we pop it into the water. In a 21' boat everything needs to be efficient and the kayak serves as our dingy and silent explorer. They are sturdy craft but take care when they are in direct hot sun. We accidentally popped a seam in our first boat when left it out (on land) without deflating it to allow for air expansion as it heated up...
 
I did a bit of research myself and decided that an inflatable is the only way to go on a smaller boat. I purchased from REI a high pressure Aquaglide, and fixed a rope on the stern and bow and we just lower it over the side. Mine weighs in at 27 pounds and is a two person. Years ago Yakima had a kayak rack that cradled the kayak and I used two on the outside for better support but I think I wouldn't need them. Most inflatables are extremely hard to flip in the water. We raise and lower ours over the side since it's so light bouncing into the side is not an issue. I have mine mounted on the starboard side yeah I know but it's a long story. The hardest part for me is wrapping the straps around to secure the kayak to the top. I have a picture posted in my album. The Sea Eagle is a bit narrower but wasn't available when I made my purchase. Whatever you do think about weight, width, length, high pressure is a must, removable keel fin, price and how you are going to mount it, right side up or down.
 
rheimb1":2c83yse6 said:
... The hardest part for me is wrapping the straps around to secure the kayak to the top. ...

Hi Rod,

We came to same conclusion as you and use a similar set up with our inflatable. I used to struggle with the same issue of getting the straps around the top. Then it dawned on me that if I mount the kayak upside down I could use the seat clip D rings inside the kayak to hold it to the rack. No getting up on the roof! I even leave the seats in the kayak and use the seat straps as the tie down. I extend the interior straps over around the solar panel leg to keep the kayak from sliding laterally. I use foam spacers (cradle) to raise the kayak 3 inches to clear the solar panel. The bow line and stern line are then also secured. When traveling down the highway on the trailer I still use the straps over the top for extra security when on the trailer/road (or deflate the kayak for longer trips). Having the kayak upside down also has the benefit of not collecting water.

We have also found that it is easier to raise and get the kayak in place by bringing it up “on edge”. This makes the kayak narrower and brings the center of gravity closer to the boat and thus less reaching out to clear the gun whale. It also makes it easier to place the kayak upside down on top. No flipping! The trick is to tie the bow and stern lines back to an outer D ring on the kayak before lifting. When pulled up by the D rings the kayak will hang “on edge” and comes up more easily with the weight closer to the tug.

Curt
 
This is a timely discussion as we are taking delivery of our R-27 soon and we were planning today to go to REI to look at Kayaks. Having owned them before and trying to simply get them on a car roof rack, I had figured that inflatable kayaks were the way to go. What I need to know is if anyone could show a photo of the racks you are using. I am trying to imagine the two parallel metal bars built into the top of the cabin. I know that you would need at least one bar going across, and then the holders for the kayak. We too want to keep the kayaks upside down.
 
Like many others I chose 2man inflatable kayak although mine weighs in closer to 40lbs when dry. Constructed rack out of DIY LEGO’s (pvc pipe). Also includes fishing rod holders under kayak. In the wind and when raining the loading and unloading is problematic. Weight increase is substantial when wet. Making it enabled more control of location which allows more room for shrimp trap/crab traps, Yakima rocket box and grannies rocking chair up there as well as Andrew once quipped . See image below if interested-

gallery2.php?g2_itemId=53706
 
John&MaryLou":2zt0wd5e said:
... What I need to know is if anyone could show a photo of the racks you are using. I am trying to imagine the two parallel metal bars built into the top of the cabin. I know that you would need at least one bar going across, and then the holders for the kayak. We too want to keep the kayaks upside down.

I don’t use a kayak holder/mount at all other than a piece a foam as a spacer to raise the kayak to be level with the solar panel. I also have some foam on the corners of the solar panel so that it doesn’t abrade. One reason I chose not to use kayak mounts was It makes it more difficult to lift the kayak over the mounts from the side of the tug. If the mount could swivel down out of the way and then swivel back up to move into position that would be ideal. I have attached some closeups showing how the kayak is secured without straps over the top. If you look closely you can see the far side seat strap run over around the solar mount to secure it laterally. Note that for highway travel I would either add additional straps over the top or take it down and deflate it. This works fine for water travel at the speeds of the R27 Classic and is easy to move on and off.

 
whilst unsightly, has anyone lashed a kayak inside the bow rails on one side?

I think it might rather block visibility but a thought for not having to pull it off the roof.
 
Dinghy lift technology from early in the last century. Easily modified to lift a kayak onto the roof of any Ranger Tug. Also useful to reconnoitre dangerous rapids of the Pacific Northwest.
Ed/
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67411
 
I would be very cautious in your choices. I have been researching how to do this and it isn’t straight forward as one would think.

Most kayaks are upwards of 40#, think about getting that boat on top of your boat when anchored[emoji2369]

I have a double, it weighs 90# and a single, 45#. I have tried putting both of the kayaks on top - even at the dock it is a two person job[emoji26]

I think most people are going inflatable. There is the oru- folding. But they are unwieldy to unfold from the boat and there is little or no way to self rescue.

My 2cents[emoji51]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My wife and I have 2 Oru Kayaks, Bay ST models. 12'-3", 26 pounds each. We can fold them and put 1 in the center lazarette and 1 on the deck of the cockpit, but we usually keep them assembled on the roof rack, (upside down). We have no trouble lifting them from the water to the roof rack, using a bow line and stern line, 2 people. I think I might be able to lift to the roof and launch them myself but I haven't tried yet. I like the Oru kayaks for their light weight. I wouldn't want to be putting heavy kayaks up and down all the time! I think you can find carbon or kevlar kayaks that weigh in around 26 pounds but they're very expensive. The Oru kayaks fit well on the R23 roof with a little trial and error to make solid and well supported. We can even fit 2 folding bikes on the roof under the 2 kayaks.
 
Back
Top