CATASTROPIC BRAKE FAILURE

C

CORPSVET

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
67
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Cutwater 28
Vessel Name
CorpsVet
I just had the left rear brake on my 2013 EZ Loader trailer lock up. The problem is too long of a hydraulic brake line to an axle, this allows a KINK to form which restricts the return of fluid after applying the brakes. The brake locks up and movement is difficult and can cause damage. A hot brake is least of the problems. In my case, my F-350 7.3ltr diesel 4x4 pulled the trailer (yes I thought it was working too hard and planned to take my truck to the shop to find out why!). Thankfully, I only had to go 4 miles and at less than 50 mph. I did my inspections before/after loading my 28 Cutwater. Trust me a kinked brake line/locked up disk brake is not that easy to detect. The brake caliper mounting plate ripped all 4/5 bolts from the axle, this dropped the caliper/axle down on inside of tire/wheel rim. It was on post inspection on returning home..did I mention ONLY 4 miles!..that I noticed the left rear rim/tire too hot to touch! At this time I guessed I had a locked up brake, so I called Woodenville EZ Loader and they mentioned a possible KINKED brake, while they were on the phone I crawled under trailer and found above damage! Scott (trailer Tech) said he would come immediatley< I TOLD HIM TO WAIT TILL NEXT DAY, I live in Oak Harbor on Whidbey Is.,it was already afternoon). They were at my house early AM , REBUILT ALL 4 AXLES/BRAKES, REPLACED TIRE & RIM ..OOHRAH!!! These guys are GREAT! If you have ANY trailer problems call them. If your trailer suddenly becomes EXTRA hard to pull or a wheel stays/repeatedly locks up.. Check for kinked brake lines!! These are triple wall lines..you may have to flex/feel lines by hand to detect kink.
 
Just as a precautionary action, whenever you stop, along with checking the tires, hitch and lights, it is a good idea to touch the rims of your trailer wheels to see if they are unevenly hot.
 
I carry a non contact infrared thermometer with laser targeting. When I stop for gas or other reasons I go around the trailer and check tire temps, bearing hub temps, (inner and outer) and brake drum temps. This gives me a base line for future referance. It also helps to warn of a pending problem. One can also check tow vehicle tire temps. I keep in mind that the ambient temp. at the time will of course infulence the the readings. This only takes a couple of minutes as the readings are instantaneous with the push of a trigger. (can use degrees C or F)
I also use the same temp gun on parts of the boat engine and gear box to establish what normal is for these areas. ($25.00 to $60.00)
Happy motoring and smooth sailing.
Don
 
For what it is worth, I also replaced the synthetic lines with steel (except for the last few inches from the frame to the axel). The maker of my electric actuator (Carlisle) recommends this to improve performance and reaction times. Don't know if this would help with the kinking problem or not. Where was the kink located?

Frank
 
Don Cardinal":19wwhrqy said:
I carry a non contact infrared thermometer with laser targeting. When I stop for gas or other reasons I go around the trailer and check tire temps, bearing hub temps, (inner and outer) and brake drum temps. This gives me a base line for future referance. It also helps to warn of a pending problem. One can also check tow vehicle tire temps. I keep in mind that the ambient temp. at the time will of course infulence the the readings. This only takes a couple of minutes as the readings are instantaneous with the push of a trigger. (can use degrees C or F)
I also use the same temp gun on parts of the boat engine and gear box to establish what normal is for these areas. ($25.00 to $60.00)
Happy motoring and smooth sailing.
Don
Click to expand...
those thermometers are great. So easy to use and not very expensive. I use mine the same as you. I check tire, hub and brake temps every time I do a pit stop.
 
I just got home from a 1000 km across BC trip towing our 28 Cutwater on the factory supplied EZ Loader. BEWARE fellow large boat owners!!! This trailer is definitely working beyond its capabilities if your boat is rigged and loaded for cruising complete with all or most of the fluids. We had multiple brake failures from pinched, folded, and broken brake lines plus the calliper on one wheel ripped off all it's mounting bolts and also proceeded to grind away the inside of the wheel rim. No less than 3 lengthy brake repair shop visits were required to get home and we still did over half the trip with zero trailer brakes. Thank god for Diesel engines and 1 ton trucks! To EZ Loader's credit they appear to be all over this and suggest they will come up with a 12,000 lb replacement for this 9000 lb rated dual axle unit. I have not yet gone over the scales but I am positive that this boat ready for cruising is substantially over the trailer capacity. The torsion arms to the wheels are pounding chunks out of the main aluminum I Beams as one indicator. In any case, this was all good highway driving with all the engine braking of a diesel to assist on the big grades - these failures can only be happening because the trailer is over stressed. If you are planning on long hauls with fully equipped boats like this over 25 ft or so, I heartily recommend INSISTING on upgrading to the next higher weight class trailer. Cutwater/Ranger is not adequately considering the all up weights of the cruising folks, and the propensity of some of us with trailerable boats doing just that...
 
so who is going to pay to upgrade to the new trlr/axle(s)???
 
I am willing to pay the difference in the price between my dual axle 9000 lb trailer and the upgrade to a tri axle 12,000 lb upgrade. The issue right now is that EZ Loader does not have a triple that will fit under a 28 Cutwater - the trailer for the 29 Ranger would need redesigned cross members, not just repositioned bunks. To EZ Loaders credit they have not blown me off yet, but this is getting complicated. If you have newer generation aluminum EZ Loaders under your boat, pay close attention to the torsion bar clearance on your main aluminum I Beam frame members, and brake fluid levels etc. I also recommend going over a scale sometime to get the typical haul weight of your trailer. Remember to subtract the empty weight of the trailer to get the actual load and then compare it to your trailer's rated capacity. I think there are strong indications that the multi- day touring folks among us are actually exceeding the capacity of the trailers being supplied by the factory. Should one of us have a serious accident as a result it's on our shoulders if the authorities figure that out, but Cutwater/Ranger and EZ Loader should be very concerned about their culpability if there is insufficient allowances for the addition of accessories and typical touring gear to the factory empty weights being used to decide on trailer capacities.
 
Might I suggest:
http://www.loadmastertrailerco.com/

See my photo album
gallery2.php?g2_itemId=25880
Note the degree of support for the hull
Also note that there is a steel member directly under the prop preventing ground strikes when you go through a sharp dip.
I have 9000 miles on mine without a problem

I did install the AIRTIGHT Sport hub kit on mine making the hub/bearings a sealed unit still holding air pressure air 2 years later.
 
my C-28 on EZ Ldr trlr stripped of all gear (dingy/kicker, fishing gear/dwn rggrs, etc) weighs 12,320 lbs (truck not attached), @ 75 gals fuel, 10 gals water, plus strandard equipment that came with boat (chain,rode,fenders, etc).
Just found this out last night, have emailed Andrew and EZ Ldr rep. waiting to hear back. (trlr GVWR 11,000 lbs).
 
Andrew just let me know that they and EZ Ldrd are aware of this issue and are reweighing boat/trlr combinations and looking for a fix! I am SO impressed with RT/CW!!!!!!
 
We have been preaching [and selling] bigger trailers for years. Glad Its finally happening for you West Coasters .
Marc
 
Thanks ever so much to Corpsvet for taking the time and initiative to get me a C28 weight - I could only tell them I was convinced the boat was well over 10,000 lbs based on the very challenged braking with my F350 with new brakes when the trailer brakes were inoperative - which was the majority of the time. FYI - within a 24 hr time span Andrew went from having no plans to upgrade the trailers to working very cooperatively with myself and EZ Loader to come up with a suitable upgrade! I would not be surprised if your information did much to aid this process. From a legal liability point of view both Cutwater/Ranger and EZ Loader are in a very tenuous position if one of us has a serious injury or worse accident. I am most encouraged by the change in tone in my discussions and will also be weighing my boat just as soon as I have a roadworthy trailer under it. It is looking like even 12,000 lb capacity is marginal unless you are willing to unload/load normal cruise equipment at the launch ramp... I detest marginal - as Wefings says: it's a bad idea especially if you haul long distances or in heavy traffic or steep terrain. I did not buy a marginal boat and I certainly did not ask for a marginal trailer - a 9000 lb trailer under this boats is clearly worse than marginal - based on my experience it could even be suicidal! Thanks all for your info.
 
Thank you pleeson and everyone else, yes I am worried about towing my boat again, now that I KNOW and HAVE stated that I KNOW I am excess of my GVWR. Because IF I TOW NOW I AM AWARE THAT I AM NOT LEGAL!! I truly hope this issue is solved SOON, I have a fishing tournament on 2 Nov.!!!! :cry: :lol:
 
Latest is that there is a consensus there is a problem, and all indications are that EZ Loader are designing a replacement triple axle trailer to fit the C 28 and producing it as quickly as possible. Kudos to all involved and waiting patiently.
 
This Cutwater weight issue carries over from trailers to boat lifts also. When I purchased my C-28, Cutwater was advertising 6,000 lbs. boat dry weight. In the middle of 2013 they changed that value to 8,000 lbs. I purchased a 10,000 Magnum lift thinking I had a good margin. Now, at 8,000 lbs. dry weight I am right at, or just over the lift capacity. While Magnum lifts do have a good margin built into their capacity numbers I still wish I had of know I was starting from 8,000 lbs. vs. 6,000 lbs. Getting the 12,000 lb. lift would have been a few more dollars for a lot of peace of mind.
 
Good morning. I am away until Tuesday but my list upon returning home includes follow-up with Andrew at Cutwater/Ranger and EZ Loader. I think they have completed design and initial production of a triple axle but I have not followed up based on the continuing winter conditions on our local highways. However, I want to get the boat back to the coast in April so time to shake a leg. Will advise. I am definitely trapped here in the mountains without a new trailer - a missing caliper and torn/ broken brake lines elsewhere eliminates any travel until this is resolved.
 
For those with older diesels the Banks Brake system is amazing to reduce trailer brake load. I pull a 15,500 lb 5th wheel and when I added the Banks Brake it cut my stop distances in half. And that is on level 2 not level 3. I run a 2006 Chev Duramax. Robert
 
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