Chartering in the San Juans, Aug 12 - 19 - any tips?

[jdcooper]

My lovely wife and I are chartering for the first time in the San Juans very soon, from Aug 12th - 19th.

We are super duper excited and can't wait to get out there. I've read the Dreamweaver guide (repeatedly, and with many tape flags 🙂), and skimmed the Waggoner, but would love to have any of y'all's input if you have some to share.

Places to go

We think we want to spend most of our time in places that are further toward the hiking/kayaking end of the spectrum than the hanging out in a village end. But we're definitely open to hitting some of the towns, too.

The places we think we want to go are:

• 
  - Sucia
  - Fisherman Bay & wander around Lopez Island
  - Griffin Bay
  - Doe Bay
  - Cypress Island
  - Jones Island
  - Roche Harbor

Opinions on these? Also, what are your favorite spots? What do you like about them?

Fishing

We're going to borrow poles & some tackle from the charter operators, but haven't got a clue about what rigs and/or tactics work up there. Do you have any ideas, or have any idea who to ask?

(I'm also excited about crabbing and maybe clamming too if we can figure it out and it's in season.)

Provisioning & Local Knowledge

Is there anything we should remember to bring that many people forget but that is really nice to have? (Food, or other stuff like clothing, flashlights, whatever.)

Are the markets around the islands sufficient to buy food for a few days at a time, or should we plan on bringing everything with us from the first day? Any favorite markets?

Are there any local customs or etiquette we should be aware of, either boating-wise or generally?

What are the most dangerous areas for boaters? Anything we should be especially cautious of?

Any input you can offer on these, or anything else you think we should know, would be much appreciated!

Jon

 

[Stella Maris]

Jon,
I would skip Roche and go to Friday Harbor instead. Friday Harbor has all you need including grocerys, chandlery's, restaurants, etc. It is also much cheaper than Roche for moorage.

As for the other locations you mentioned, we have not been to them. It seems we are always passing through the San Juans on our way to the Gulf Islands and beyond. They are beautiful and we do have a list of places we will eventually make it to in the San Juans. Not just yet. We are taking off the last week of August headed for Gulf Islands once again.

 

[Auklet]

Dear Jon and lovely wife --- You didn't say where you are leaving from. Makes a difference as to provisioning etc. Bellingham and Anacortes are good starting points but I am prejudiced toward Anacortes because every thing you need is within walking distance from the harbor. I agree with Karma, put Roche on the bottom of your list. It's an interesting place if you are into the lives of excentric rich people. Sounds like what you are looking for are places like Sucia (Fossil and Echo bays), Stuart (Reid Harbor), and Cypress (Eagle Harbor).

Sucia -- Fossil has two piers, many mooring buoys, and some anchorage. Echo has some buoys but is primarily for anchoring. Lots of good hiking and kayaking. This island was purchased by boaters and given to the state many years ago for a park.

Stuart -- Reid Harbor offers a good pier, many buoys and excellent anchorage. It also has the best hike in the islands. The road to Turn Point is spectacular. You can avoid the worst part of the trail by taking your dinghy to the launch ramp at the head of the bay. There is a good road that takes you about a mile and a half to the light house. You will walk past a beautiful one room schoolhouse and an honor system t-shirt sales chest.

Cypress -- The best access to the island is Eagle harbor. From there you can hike the strenuous trail to Eagle cliff. The buoys here are DNR not a park, so no charge.

Jones -- A little gem. You're lucky if you can get in there. North side has a pier and three buoys. South side has buoys but too rough for overnight.

Fisherman Bay -- Tricky getting in so believe the lateral buoyage. Two marinas, both good. Accross the road is a place that rents bicycles. Good way to spend the day. Lopez ice cream, best in the world, a must stop.

Doe Bay -- Has been trying to fend off the reputation from the good old days as "clothing optional hippy hangout". Now is a nice but simple family resort. Problem is there is no water access. Best visited by car.

Griffin Bay -- Nothing here. A big bay with a lot of private homes.

An area worth exploring is Garrison Bay. This is the site of the last "war" between the U.S and Great Britain. The English Camp is still there. Worth a brief history lesson. You asked about dangers. Watch your charts carefully in this area and take the lateral buoyage seriously even if it doesn't make immediate sense.

Have fun and be careful.

 

[JamesTXSD]

For a differing opinion: we really prefer Roche Harbor over Friday Harbor; we like the pizza and prime rib sandwich at the outdoor seating at the restaurant there. Friday Harbor is real town, with traffic and milling crowds. Do both and decide for yourself.

Stuart Island has two great anchorages, Prevost and Reid, nice place to kayak, and good hiking on the island - take the walk to the old school and visit the "treasure chest."

When the wind is out of any direction but north, drop the hook for the night in Blind Bay - quiet anchorage; take the kayaks to the ferry landing and get some ice cream at the general store.

There are SO many great places in the San Juans - you can't go wrong. After a week, you'll be ready to go back for a month. 😀

Best wishes,
Jim B.

 

[jdcooper]

Thanks very much for the input, folks. I can't wait to get out there!

Jim, I'm already ready to go back for a month and I haven't been yet. I may have to move after we actually visit, lol.

Auklet, we are leaving from Bellingham. We're going to provision with some staples but hope to find some fresh food while wandering around the islands. Hopefully we can find a farmers' market or three. That's our general approach to eating in the summertime.

Karma, we'd love to explore the Gulf Islands, and further; hopefully sometime in the future we can take a longer vacation and do just that. Safe travels at the end of August!

Any ideas on "the thing we're most likely to forget when packing for our charter"? How about fishing tips? (I have always had an uncle on one side of the family or the other to use as a guide, seem to be missing one in the PacNW, though, 😛)

 

[Stella Maris]

I know your coming to the PNW where everyone talks about "rain" but, don't forget your sunscreen! You will need it! Also, a light coat or sweatshirt for mornings and evenings. A hat of some sort is also recommended.

A corkscrew is vital.......

We have never been to Bellingham so I cannot give you any tips on provisioning there. We will however find out ourselves when we re-launch Karma there on the 20th of this month. We will be starting our trip from Bellingham also. While we had originally planned to go out of Anacortes for the very reason that Cary addressed, we had transportation issues we had to overcome (getting Maureen to Karma on the 25th). She will fly into Bellingham and then cab to the marina.

Oh, did I mention you should bring along a corkscrew?

Some sort of rags or towels if you are going to fish. I am sure a charter boat will not be equiped with something to wipe the "fish slime" and blodd off of your hands with. Needle nose pliers to remove those buried hooks (not only from your fingers but the fish too....... experience speaking here......)

A good corkscrew would be an ideal piece of equipment to bring along......

CD's and or an I Pod. If you bring an I Pod, bring along a cord to connect it to the stereo in the event it has an auxiliary plug.

Flashlights, many times charter boats will not come equipped with one.

Battery charger for your camera if you have a rechargable camera. Nothing worse than the battery going dead halfway through the trip.

Spices and seasonnings for whatever you plan to cook. If you are going to Marina hop, I would not plan dinner on board everynight. There are many great restaurants out there.

And of course, the ever trusty corkscrew.....

 

[jdcooper]

Thanks again - much appreciated. I'll try to report back here after our charter.

 

[JamesTXSD]

We have launched out of Bellingham several times - great place to provision. Haggen grocery stores have great produce and a wonderful selection of everything else. When cruising in the area, we always make it a point to stop in Bellingham (inexpensive transient dockage at Squalicum Harbor, with good showers) and drive to Haggen's to stock up. One item we particularly enjoyed from that store was the single serving prime rib - just heat it up and it's good to go; easy to make on the boat and you feel almost decadent having prime rib onboard.

Seems that the produce in Washington is at its peak in August, so all the stores will have great variety.

Your thread makes me anxious to visit the area again!

Best wishes,
Jim B.

 

[Stella Maris]

Lets see..... Prime Rib in Roche, Prime Rib in Bellingham....... Are we seeing a trend here???

Not a bad trend to be locked into........

 

[jdcooper]

Prime Rib for the win!! We'll definitely grab a few of those. Soooooo excited to get out there!

 

[JamesTXSD]

I hadn't thought about that (prime rib). My "fun summer job" in the Tetons driving a cruise boat means a dinner cruise most nights... getting kinda tired of steak and trout after a couple months. 😉 When we're cruising on our boat, Joan does a great job of stocking up on food and planning the menu. Right after a stop to supply, we have great fresh produce, fresh breads, etc. She takes as much out of the packaging as possible to eliminate dealing with garbage along the way and reduce the size, and packs stuff in the fridge in the reverse order she plans to use it. I am always amazed that she can get so much into that small fridge - a real lesson in efficiency. She plans boxed/dry prep meals for later. If we come across fresh produce or good local foods along the way, she adds that to the mix. We don't pass up the opportunity for interesting restaurants along the way, either (some of the best local information).

Any motorcycle enthusiasts here know the phrase: "Live to ride, ride to live." I'm thinking of a new tattoo: "Cruise to eat, eat to cruise." :mrgreen:

Think cruising isn't about food? Try missing a few meals in a row. One of the real treats for us while cruising is finding a good restaurant after a few days of anchoring out. Maybe that's why we enjoy Roche Harbor so much? Well that and all the fun exploring around there, the pomp and circumstance of the sunset ceremony, and walking the docks to "meet and greet" and check out the boats.

Best wishes,
Jim B.

 

[jdcooper]

getting kinda tired of steak and trout after a couple months.

That's what we call a "high quality problem". 🙂

She takes as much out of the packaging as possible to eliminate dealing with garbage along the way and reduce the size, and packs stuff in the fridge in the reverse order she plans to use it. I am always amazed that she can get so much into that small fridge - a real lesson in efficiency.

Great tip, we will definitely do this. Cheers!

One of the real treats for us while cruising is finding a good restaurant after a few days of anchoring out.

Right on, any recommendations while we're in the San Juans, or, for that matter, in Seattle?

Jon

 

[walldog]

While at Laura Cove in Desolation Sound, at sunset we were treated to a bag pipe rendition of "Amazing Grace" and "O Canada". Very moving and striking as the player stood on an exposed rock off the stern of his boat.

 

[Auklet]

J & LW --- Farmer's markets at Friday Harbor and Lopez Village, both walking distance but open only on Saturday. Restaurnts change from year to year, ask around. The residents are picky so trust their recomendations. If you choose to go to a marina, I would suggest you call ahead. This is a very busy time in the islands. Waggoner's has the phone numbers. Use your VHF only when in sight of marina.

Do all of your provisioning in Bellingham. Everything in the islands is shipped in by dugout canoe and therefore very expensive. Best store in Bellingham is Haggans but there is a Trader Joe's if you can find it. There is also a farmers market but I don't know hours or days. Right accross the street from the market is my favorite lunch stop. It's called Boundry Bay Brew Pub.

Looks like the weather is holding.