“Check engine” alarm troubleshooting

[RangerLove]

Folks - I’ve reviewed several related threads to this Yanmar “check engine” matter that I’m experiencing, but I have a couple of specific questions below that I’m seeking some insight on, please.

I have the “Check Engine” alarm going off on my 2010 R29 6BY2-260 Yanmar. It sounds prior to engine starting (half key turn) and also intermittently but regularly while underway. No reduction in engine performance.

I’m in Vancouver, BC. I’d like to know what the code is behind the “Check Engine” to know what sensor is playing up.

I’ve spoken to all major Yanmar shops in the lower mainland (5 of them). Surprisingly, none of them have the diagnostic computer for the BY, including the largest Yanmar shop who sent a tech to the boat but he couldn’t do anything as he didn’t have the diagnostic equipment. Finally found one (after weeks of calling around including Vancouver Island) who claims to have the diagnostic computer, but they can’t see me for 4-6 weeks (despite me politely asking to slot me in for the brief computer diagnostic sooner). We are year round active boaters (300+ engine hrs annually), and this is quite painful with us cancelling several trips if I can’t resolve this sooner.

My troubleshooting has involved replacing all my filters (including primary water separating fuel filter), but alarm still blares “Check Engine”.

Questions/queries from me:
1. I see some comment on this forum about the Yanmar interface giving more insight into error codes. I can’t see anything beyond “check engine”. If there is any button sequence that will get me more without the tech diagnostic computer, please let me know.
2. I see comments re the oil pressure sensor sender can play up. Would this throw a “check engine” alarm or rather an “oil pressure” alarm? Would this also sound prior to the engine firing up (which is happening in my case). Trying process of elimination
3. I’m about to embark on this grounding search as further trouble-shooting (as discussed in this thread). What am I specifically looking for? Simply loose connections, unplugging and re-plugging in? Should I be doing this with engine off (which is my assumption) or is there anything I can troubleshoot while the alarm is on (even if half ignition with alarm sounding but engine not firing). My assumption is me fiddling with connections with engine off, with wife at helm turning ignition half way to check whether alarm is addressed after each fiddle. Any more efficient ideas would be welcome.
4. When folks mention “re-grounding” what does this entail?
5. I see some other threads mentioning a possible issue others have experienced with screen mesh on fuel tank pick-up line clogging. How easy is this pick-up line to access on the 2010 r29 tank? To trouble-shoot whether this might be it without pulling it all out, is a blast of air reversed down the line into the tank a possibility to ensure the mesh is temporarily cleared (then re-priming) an option? If it was to resolve the alarm then dive deeper into access to pick-up line and fuel polishing etc.
6. Let It Be - I’m very sorry to hear about your journey with that module. Very painful. What error code were you experiencing with it prior to the upgrade? “Check engine” or was it showing more when the tech plugged the diagnostic in? Was alarm constant, or intermittent in your case?

Clearly I am aiming to get this resolved asap and I’m frustrated that the Yanmar techs thus far haven’t been able to help diagnose with the right computer (and at best I’m still 4-6 weeks away from it being looked at by a Yanmar tech who apparently has the computer), and any suggestions would be most welcome.

Many thanks in advance for your responses.
Scott

 

[BGW]

Hi Scott,

I’m not sure this will help as I have a Volvo D3 in my R27. When I get a check engine warning (which has been every time for a year) I go to the engine warnings screen on the Volvo display. There in a microscopic font with a fault code. I can’t tell you how many times I looked at that screen without realizing the fault code was there.

On my display I can toggle between various modes and settings. By chance does the Yanmar display offer the same?

 

[knotflying]

Do you have an engine manual? You will need that to see what the code means. Here is how you get the code.

With the ignition ON.

Press button 5 for five seconds(far right) on your i5601E engine readout. Mine is nearly impossible to see, so I kneel

Screen gives several choices and highlights DIAG CODES

Press button 4 (reading from left)

 

[C Folly]

I was also getting check engine alarms when I took on my 2012 C28 with a 260 yanmar. Some of the check engine alarms don't send a code, which was happening in my case. Mostly temperature related. Cleaning the raw water cooling system with barnacle buster solved the problem.

 

[cal & pam]

I have a 2009 R25 Classic with the 4BY2 Yanmar diesel engine. Similar issue with the Check Engine alarm. The problem turned out to be a failed glow plug. This failure is not identified in the Yanmar Check Engine alarm display. The only way we found it was talking to an old Yanmar mechanic who, luckily, remembered this happening with older Yanmar engines. My glow plug failure happened during the summer, so was not temperature related. I believe that the glow plugs are only needed as an assist for low temperature starting. If that is true, you can run the engine, if necessary, without causing further harm. However, the check engine alarm is very annoying to listen to. Please let me know if this turns out to be your problem.
Cal
cal & pam

 

[RangerLove]

I ended up getting the Diagnostic code - it is showing a P0113 (Charge Air Temp Sensor), and P0650 (check engine lamp) which I think shows as a code because of the P0113 short.

I’ve now got access to this sensor, pulled it out. Nothing obvious regarding the harness or associated chaffing that I can see.
I’ve pulled the sensor out… I have a suspicion that it is faulty, but don’t know for sure. Before ordering the $300 sensor, I’d like to know that it is the problem… has anyone had success / technique of testing such a sensor.

I have it in my hand and intend to take it home tonight, with my multimeter, and try to troubleshoot the sensor itself.

I’ll buy another one if I can confirm it is faulty.

Has anyone else had this specific issue and any suggested tips?

Regards,
Scott

 

[Osprey]

This will only be useful if you do not have a full engine service manual.
Here is what I find on p.12-19 of the manual with respect to a defective Charge Air Temperature Sensor:
P0113 No connection/short to ground
Test Values
*Resistance at -20C 40 7- 48 k-ohm
*Resistance at 0C 14.5 to 16.5 k-ohm
* Resistance at 20C 6.0 to 6.5 k-ohm
*Resistance at 12OC 0.18 to 0.22 k-ohm

I note that you report no reduction in engine performance. However. a loss of rated power is one of the results of a failure of this sensor. Another result is a limitation of the injection rate. I suppose for either of these results the engine might appear to be okay for conditions of partial power demands such as we usually operate the engine. Just that the engine cannot produce the rated 260 HP.

 

[RangerLove]

Thank you very much, Osprey. This is very helpful... and I missed this myself in the service manual, but I see it now. Much appreciated.

I'm getting a 0 ohm as I try the sensor with my multi-meter... which I suppose further confirms the sensor to be faulty.
I'm going to head down to the boat to make sure 5volts are traveling through the harness as a final check, and if this is the case, I'll go and order a new sensor and hope that fixes things. Unlike many of the engine components that are BMW, it looks like these sensors are Yanmar only - hence the $286 (Canadian) price tag and a 2-3 week wait for the small sensor, and a keenness to ensure that it is faulty before ordering.

Regarding the P0113 code/alarm and no loss of performance... I found that odd too. I tend to cruise at no more than 2800 RPMs, and haven't pushed it further (particularly while troubleshooting through this alarm matter) recently. I figured a Reduction would have pulled it back further, but perhaps the threshold is higher in the 3000s RPMs or whatnot.

Thank you again for your response.
Scott