CaspersCruiser
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 11, 2016
- Messages
- 868
- Fluid Motion Model
- R-27 Classic
- Hull Identification Number
- FMLT2709G112
- Vessel Name
- Cookie
- MMSI Number
- 368203460
My boat is a 2012 R27 Classic. Last year, the water pressure pump would cycle briefly every hour or so. The interval steadily decreased over the intervening year to the point that I kept the water pump turned off unless I was actively using the faucets. Yesterday, I went looking for the leak. Here it is:
This photo shows the Jabsco city water inlet that was installed on my boat when it was built. The spray is coming from a hairline crack in the body. The crack must have started out small last year and propagated. Fortunately, Tim McMillan (AKA Tugnuts “Boatdreamer”) told me there was enough water line slack inside the boat that the city water inlet and a short length of hose could be pulled outside the boat. That’s what you see in the photo. If there had not been enough slack in the water line, it would been a bitch to access from inside the boat.
My fix was to deactivate the city water inlet by removing the water line from it and plugging the water line fitting using a threaded plug and then capping the city water outlet using a threaded cap. Capping the city water outlet prevents flooding the boat in case someone in the future hooks up a hose to it. On my boat those fittings are 1/2” NPSM. If you ever take these measures, be sure to securely plug the water line because it receives pressurized water from the pump.
I decided to secure the water line that was removed from the inlet by using a long piece of stainless safety wire to pull it over to the back of the cabinet just forward of the sink. I drilled two holes in the back of the cabinet and threaded a tie-wrap through them to hold the water line in a vertical orientation. I left the safety wire on the water line and secured it in case I need it in the future to pull the water line around. The vertical orientation will allow water to drain from the line during winterization.
I reinstalled the city water inlet assembly on the side of the boat for now. I will try to fashion some type of cover plate for the hole and remove the inlet assembly. It may take a while to come up with an aesthetically pleasing solution. I am well-acquainted with a body shop that is owned by a boater and does a lot of work on boats and RVs. I may see if they are interested in fiberglassing over the hole and gel coat it.
Fluid Motion General Manager Andrew Custis has stated a couple times on this forum that the factory no longer installs city water inlets on the trailerable boats because of problems with them. I don’t know if the bigger boats have them. I never used mine.

This photo shows the Jabsco city water inlet that was installed on my boat when it was built. The spray is coming from a hairline crack in the body. The crack must have started out small last year and propagated. Fortunately, Tim McMillan (AKA Tugnuts “Boatdreamer”) told me there was enough water line slack inside the boat that the city water inlet and a short length of hose could be pulled outside the boat. That’s what you see in the photo. If there had not been enough slack in the water line, it would been a bitch to access from inside the boat.
My fix was to deactivate the city water inlet by removing the water line from it and plugging the water line fitting using a threaded plug and then capping the city water outlet using a threaded cap. Capping the city water outlet prevents flooding the boat in case someone in the future hooks up a hose to it. On my boat those fittings are 1/2” NPSM. If you ever take these measures, be sure to securely plug the water line because it receives pressurized water from the pump.
I decided to secure the water line that was removed from the inlet by using a long piece of stainless safety wire to pull it over to the back of the cabinet just forward of the sink. I drilled two holes in the back of the cabinet and threaded a tie-wrap through them to hold the water line in a vertical orientation. I left the safety wire on the water line and secured it in case I need it in the future to pull the water line around. The vertical orientation will allow water to drain from the line during winterization.
I reinstalled the city water inlet assembly on the side of the boat for now. I will try to fashion some type of cover plate for the hole and remove the inlet assembly. It may take a while to come up with an aesthetically pleasing solution. I am well-acquainted with a body shop that is owned by a boater and does a lot of work on boats and RVs. I may see if they are interested in fiberglassing over the hole and gel coat it.
Fluid Motion General Manager Andrew Custis has stated a couple times on this forum that the factory no longer installs city water inlets on the trailerable boats because of problems with them. I don’t know if the bigger boats have them. I never used mine.