Cummins cam belt replacement -

oldrt

Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2010
Messages
11
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
Aspen C90 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Topaz
Hi all –
This my first post. I am in the process of researching the purchase on an R-25. I have notices that the older R-25 have the Cummins QSD2.0-150 and then in 2010 Ranger starting the Yanmar 4BY2-150’s.
My question is this – Has any one put 1000 Hours or 4 years on the Cummins QSD yet? If so how much was it to have the cam belt replaced. I am told the belt is in excess of $400 plus labor of several hours to complete.
Please give me feedback on the + or – of either Cummins or Yanmar 4BY2-150.
Thanks in advance for you help.
 
Hello oldrt,

I haven't had the specific experience of changing the cam drive belt on the Cummins engine. However, I've had several experiences with cam drive belts and/or drive chains. The belts are generally expensive and labor even more so. I keep hearing the parts for that Cummins engine are very, very expensive.

My first experience was having a belt break in the middle of an intersection. Towed the car home. Found out there was a mileage point where one was supposed to change the belt, which, by the way, not published in the owner's manual.

Decided it wasn't rocket science and undertook to remove the old belt and put in a new one. Since the belt had broken with the engine operating, the engine timing was shot. I was lucky, sometimes when those belts break, internal parts get out of sync and bounce off each other, not good. :twisted: I had the maintenance manual. Followed instructions on retiming everything, installed the new belt. Buttoned it back up. And everything worked!

Generally, the hardest part is getting to various components to loosen, tighten, remove or install. I've always felt it's a good practice to be able to work on things. Being stranded in the middle of nowhere isn't fun. With boats and motorcycles, I've found myself in out of the way places and have had to repair things myself. I carry maintenance manuals and spare parts. Highly recommend it.

Gene
 
The cure is to trade the boat on a new R27/29/SC at 999.5 hours as they have room at the front of the engine to get your hand and wrenches in...
I have the front of the step into the cabon removed so I can do the 100 hours service on the engine which includes checking the belt tension... Have not figured how to get the belt shroud off yet - and I have invoked the Livingston name in French several times whilst working at it...
 
Ah, the sheer joy of belt replacement!
Had to do this Friday on Starry Night, R25 with a Cummins 130 hp. We had a high pitched whine that we could not trace, after I checked the air filter and found it fine, sent pics of the turbo to Cummins and had them say they didn't think that was the problem. They really thought it was the belt. Well, after replacing it, neither I nor my mechanic saw anything wrong with it, so there goes a hundred bucks. But I learned the following valuable lesson on belt replacement:

1. Remove the vertical portion of the inside step to gain access (using your trusty square screwdriver bit)

2. There are three screws on the vertical surface of the black plastic cover over the belt which must be removed (and not dropped into the bildge.) There is about an arm's width of room to work....

3. Two screws are fairly easy to access, they are phillips, don't remember the size. One of the screws is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to access - it is on the upper right corner, at the end of the horizontal post holding the alternator. I had to use a bit from my power screwdriver and pliers to turn the screw bit at a 90 degree angle, because there is only about 2 inches of clearance between the belt cover and the fiberglass bulkhead wall leading into the cabin, no way to use a screwdriver there!

4. Curse a few times, as you now think you have the cover removed. :twisted:

5. Using a mirror on a stick, you will now discover that there is a NUT on the BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE, about 2 inches in from the end, that you now have to remove with a wrench, working blindly. I am really not kidding. I did not replace that nut when the job was done.

6. My Cummins mechanic was on site replacing an intake manifold temperature sensor that has failed for the second time, and he was guiding me through the above process. He did the actual belt removal because I did not have the physical strength to lift up on the tensioner pully. He suggested I purchase a very long and strong 15 mm closed end wrench to hook onto the bolt on the tensioner to give me enough leverage to raise it the inch or so needed to pop the belt off and on.

7. Continue cursing at the idiots who put a nut on the bottom of the engine case where you would never think there would be one..... :evil:

I advise you all to check your engines for this issue - had this happened underway and I needed to replace the belt, I would have trashed that stupid plastic cover to get to the belt.

Have fun!
 
OK, thanks for the heads up on the nut underneath - have not gotten that far yet, though I did scope out most of the rest...
I have not said a bad word about Cummins so far... At no point did their engineers even dream that someone would install one with the belt drive right up against a bulkhead...
(Of course, I just found out about the fuel filter installed at the factory being over torqued to the point that is is 'unremovable', so the bad words may come yet)
Andrew needs to make sure that all Cummins installed from now on have a revised shroud...

Right now I am searching my shop for the hinges to the teak doors in the cockpit... I removed them to sand and varnish the doors and their frames as the varnish was peeling off on a 1 year old boat... Now that I am re-installing, the can with the hinges and screws has gone awol... arrrgh... It doesn't help when there are other projects going on, a brooder house for the new chicks coming in 2 weeks being built, a CNC mill being assembled, etc. the boat went out for new canvas and came back, and someone decided to 'clean' the shop in the meanwhile....
 
Sparky,
Looking for additional information, thanks -
• How many hours on your engine?
• How long did you have (time wise) involved in this repair? Did it correct the noise concern?
• What did the noise sound like?
• How much was the repair? Cost in labor? Cost in parts?
How it is all squared away -
Gregg
 
Greg,

The tug has about 100 hours on it since she was built and delivered in Aug 08

Cannot tell you the time and cost of the belt replacement, as we were working on other things as well, but allow an hour, now that you know the "secret". The belt is about $100. We'll see how much time/cost is allocated to the belt replacement, which is non-warranty work, and how much is that intake manifold temp sensor which is warranty. At least the time and travel for the Cummins mechanic to get here will fall under the warranty.

The sound, which began around 1,300 rpms, was a high pitched whine, audible until the engine noise drowned it out at higher RPMs. It started about 15 minutes after engine start up and continued most of our 2 hour trip, both times it occured. During testing at the dock (you can put the boat in neutral and run up the RPMS) we did not hear the sound. So who knows if the belt was the problem, if the sound will come back once we do sea trials, etc. Will let you know.

Sparky
 
Sparky,
I hope your noise is corrected.
Good luck,
Gregg
 
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