Cutting an access hatch for the Cave - R23

jagizzi

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Apr 17, 2017
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Fluid Motion Model
C-242 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
R-23, July 3rd delivery, yippee
Vessel Name
Next Ten
We don't use the Cave as a berth, but for storage is is a great space. Access to the bins at the far end however, was really tough!

I decided to cut a hatch under the microwave to make this more usable. Thanks to the tugnutters that I talked to about this process, and had gone before me.

In order to make it a bit easier for those that wish to do the same I detailed the process and posted it in blog format. Hopefully this will help those that are a bit reluctant to cut into their new boats decide that it really isn't that big of a deal. Simple woodworking tools are all that are necessary and the trim is inexpensive to finish it off. There really is no reason not to do this if the space is open to you.

Take a look at the link below and feel free to comment or question.

https://www.nwesterly.com/boats/2018/3/ ... ss-storage

Thanks,

Jim
 
Thanks for the pictures and narrative, maybe someday.
 
Super Cool! That's a great mod Lots of usable space. I'm putting it on my list of to-do's. Thanks for sharing!
 
Ha ha on me! I am using the Admiral's blog space to post my modifications and lo and behold she changes things to suit her ;-)

The earlier link to this no longer works, the new link is https://www.nwesterly.com/home/2018/3/5 ... ss-storage

Who knew that blog spaces could change ;-)

Jim
 
We cut the same access on our 2010 R25 - did the straight cuts with a vibra-saw and the round cuts with a Dremel with a glass cutting bit.

I purchased the two hatches from Amazon (the ultimate boat supply) and Defender and bought the brand stamped by the manufacturer on the inside of several of the original Ranger-fitted hatches. Saw them installed at a Rendezvous on another Ranger.

Rather than screwing them as Ranger did, I just applied some clear silicone to the edges - the fit was so tight that nothing else was needed.

Look at our web site for photos:

http://www.shearwater-sailing.com/index ... rwater-iv/
 
We completed this mod and I have some Trim Lok material left. Thanks to jagizzi for sending me his left overs. If some one wants it PM me.
 
Hey Mark,

Glad you completed the job, you'll love it! Do you mean to say that you still have enough left over for another hatch? That is surprising.

Jim
 
jagizzi":35g76rkx said:
Do you mean to say that you still have enough left over for another hatch? That is surprising.
Hi Jim yep I have a piece that is 5'-4'' long I think It's enough for someone out there to trim out a access hatch. Thanks Again!!
 
To cut a straight line for the lower edge I wonder if placing a wood piece of the correct thickness (and wide enough for the tool to rest securely on) on the isle floor up against the fiber glass (or as close to it as possible) and using it to keep the cutting blade level for the complete cut from start to finish might allow for a cleaner straight cut. For the corners I would have thought a suitable drill bit size could result in a nice corner radius.

No matter, good job. 🙂
 
baz":1pdgh56k said:
To cut a straight line for the lower edge I wonder if placing a wood piece of the correct thickness (and wide enough for the tool to rest securely on) on the isle floor up against the fiber glass (or as close to it as possible) and using it to keep the cutting blade level for the complete cut from start to finish might allow for a cleaner straight cut. For the corners I would have thought a suitable drill bit size could result in a nice corner radius.

No matter, good job. 🙂

Jamb Saw
 
Brunski":a0fx3wmd said:
baz":a0fx3wmd said:
To cut a straight line for the lower edge I wonder if placing a wood piece of the correct thickness (and wide enough for the tool to rest securely on) on the isle floor up against the fiber glass (or as close to it as possible) and using it to keep the cutting blade level for the complete cut from start to finish might allow for a cleaner straight cut. For the corners I would have thought a suitable drill bit size could result in a nice corner radius.

No matter, good job. 🙂

Jamb Saw

This one maybe - https://www.amazon.com/Tools-ProTou...pID=31D87E8T1ML&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
 
baz":3mk7ikkr said:
Brunski":3mk7ikkr said:
baz":3mk7ikkr said:
To cut a straight line for the lower edge I wonder if placing a wood piece of the correct thickness (and wide enough for the tool to rest securely on) on the isle floor up against the fiber glass (or as close to it as possible) and using it to keep the cutting blade level for the complete cut from start to finish might allow for a cleaner straight cut. For the corners I would have thought a suitable drill bit size could result in a nice corner radius.

No matter, good job. 🙂

Jamb Saw

This one maybe - https://www.amazon.com/Tools-ProTou...pID=31D87E8T1ML&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I was thinking more like this: https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Jamb-Saw/10-55/
 
The best tool is an oscillating saw. Done that, works great. Make sure to drill holes in the corners and give a small bevel to the gel coat to prevent cracks from stresses. Even drilled holes should be slightly beveled for that reason

The oscillating saw allows to be guided by a straight guide or sanding can be done to smoothen the cut.
 
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