Cutting/buff compounds - too many choices

Going through the same process right now on my 2011 Claret Red hull. Using 3m Heavy cut compound on wool cutting pad and 7 in Makita polisher, then 3M Medium Cut compound + wax on wool pad, and finally 3M Finesse IT II glaze on foam finishing pad on D/A polisher. Results are fantastic. So far have gotten the stack, cabin top and brown band around cabin done. Instead of wax, I'm trying ceramic coating. Wax just doesn't seem to hold up here in our dry sunny clime.
 
Ok, I am guilty of starting this project as well. I have been using the Turbo Cut, then the Marine 31 Polish, and then Marine 31 was/sealant per BB. That combination works wonders on the topside thus far. And GG nailed it, the topside of the cutwater makes it very challenging with an 8" pad on a 7" polisher. I have only done the cockpit, and halfway up one side, ......as it is that tedious.......that work alone was a combined 5hrs. I am dedicating myself to finishing the topside, and then I believe I'll hire someone for the hull. Not because I can't do it, but because it is dangerous, since she's slipped. I've already had that polisher jump on me a few times.
 
planning remove oxidation, polish and wax our c28. what are the pros and cons of where to use wool or foam pads?
 
Regarding an '09 R 25 Classic with the blue hull and brows:
The person who designed that roof never had to polish and wax one 😛
+1 for 3M perfect-It (#2) coupled with a wool pad, the foam pads work well for final polish, but I have not liked them with the compound. Followed by two coats of Flagship Marine Wax (paste) gets it through the summer looking good.
The hull looks great on the side away from the sun and only gets polished every 2nd or 3rd year, but new wax every year. (May to middle of October) The blue side towards the sun get polished every year.
Doesn't matter what you use on the brows over the windows, last only about 6 weeks. This is a known issue and might be why the blue brows went away. Apparently the UV protection in the hull finish was much better.
IMO the hull is the easy part, out of the water of course. But then in the water, you don't fall as far if you go off the roof!
 
mikey":2vlhlluq said:
planning remove oxidation, polish and wax our c28. what are the pros and cons of where to use wool or foam pads?

I have found wool pads cut better with a rotary polisher and heavy compound but leaves fine swirls.
Foam pads work best with a Dual Action Polisher for the final pass with fine polish/glaze to remove the swirls.
I use a 3 inch battery powered mini polisher for the tough spots on the top sides with both a wool pad and foam pad as above.

Curt
 
Total Boat Total Buff Rubbing Compound. I used it last spring on a heavily oxidized blue and white with excellent results. Had to use a wool pad for the cutting, Total Boat marine polish with a foam pad, and then went to 3M marine wax for the finish. The boat went from flat finish with no reflection to looking shiny and smooth.
 
Has anyone used a product called DITEC for hull polish and protection? My yard has put it on and claims it lasts three times longer than wax. Haven’t even had a chance to look at it yet.
 
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