Cutwater 28 drip drip drip

NautiTug

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Messages
189
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Vessel Name
No Reservations
Is this my stuffing box? Does it need to be tightened or repacked? I took a quick video and posted below. This is at the dock with the engine off.

https://youtu.be/9HbhTVjx8rU

Thanks!
 
Yes and Yes. If you are the original owner it probably only needs to be tightened slightly. Lots of post and info online on how to do this properly. Not a big job.
 
It probably needs a small adjustment. How long has it been since the boat was launched this year? If it has been a few weeks and you have put a few hours on the engine snug it up. If you just launched the boat and haven't put any hours on it this season. Before tightening the packing tie the boat off good to the dock. Start the engine and put it in gear, idle, let it run for 5 or 10 minutes monitoring the drips. Shut the engine down and recheck the drips with the engine off. If it is the same or worse it's time for an adjustment. If the drips slowed down or quit it may still be ok without adjustment. Monitor it for a week or two. Start spraying some penetrant oil on the thread area in preparation for an adjustment. I mention this because seasonal boating areas when dry docking is necessary for several months with the boat blocked, things get slightly misaligned. The packing dries out and needs to be run in a bit before it stops leaking. After launching a boat the first check is always the thru hulls and packing. If the packing isn't leaking badly I let the boat sit in the water for a week , put a few hours on the engine, and monitor the packing. I will make adjustments then if needed.

I have 430 hrs on my C26 and owned it for going on 5 seasons. Each year when I first launch the boat the packing is leaking more than I like but then slows to nothing when engine is off. I have made 1 adjustment (1/8 of a turn). I launch next week I will check again. No drips when the engine is not running ,2 to 4 drips with the engine running shooting for 3.
 
Many folks struggle with breaking the lock nut free due to limited access for two wrenches or with it being seized. On my R21 the rubber tube is short and I do not have straight up and down access for a wrench on the back nut. I use a 1 foot long 3/4" brass bar to give the back nut a good tap to break it free. Any type of bar or drift pin will work. On mine, once the lock nut is loose it spins freely by hand. Mark the top of the Gland nut to show original position and tighten it 1/8"-1/4". This should be enough to stop or slow your drip rate. Sung the lock nut and run your engine in gear as described above by BBmarine. May take several attempts to get the drip rate you want. When you have what you want, tighten the lock nut against the gland nut. Monitor the drip rate and temperature on your next run. Should be no more than warm to the touch if you have 3-6 DPM.
 
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