Dining table support

[DBBRanger]

The table in my R25 tends to move a bit as others have noted even though mine has two legs to support it. I didn't want to deal with putting blocks on the wall for support because I didn't want through bolts in the cabin wall nor did I want to add additional legs for support. So I made a structure that bolts to the seat edge and screws into the bottom of the table. Those bolts and screws make it such that I only needed it on one side - it keeps the table from moving up or down. I made it out of oak and used some fairly heavy-duty screws to hold it together. The through bolt goes into the cave and has a nut and washer on it. The whole thing works very nicely to stabilize the table. It is important to note though that we never lower the table to make a bunk. This solution would not be convenient if we did.

 

[baz]

On our previous R-25 I fixed this by using 1/2" x 1" thick oak molding that was squeezed between the length of the table's top edge and the monkey fur. The monkey fur provided enough friction and the table wobbliness was solved completely. Easy fix and still allowed for lowering the table for forming the mid cabin berth.

 

[knotflying]

On the R-27 we do not have the monkey fur which would provide the friction. I rarely move the table to the down position except when I trailer the boat, so I still want an easy option if I lower the table. I was thinking of the same friction principle as Baz, but was going to apply heavy duty Velcro to the wall and back of the wood ledge thereby making it easily removable when I wanted to lower the table. The table is supported enough by the pedestal that I think the Velcro applied piece will not have too much pressure on it to give way an will hopefully eliminate the wobble.

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

On our R27 our table wobbled a bit, enough that it was annoying. I installed 2 L shaped brackets, one towards each port side bottom edge of the table, fore ad aft. In each L bracket I installed one screw into the bottom of the table and one into the wood guide that's attached to the wall in our boat. With the brackets installed the table is ridged, no movement at all. If the table needs to be lowered all I need to do is unscrew two screws but we never have.

Jim F

 

[knotflying]

That sounds like a good option also Jim. i assume then that you do not lower the table when you trailer the boat?

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

I installed the L brackets a 2 1/2 years ago and we've not lowered the table since, trailering or otherwise, and its as rock solid as the day the brackets were installed.

 

[knotflying]

Do you recall the size? and did you install the bracket below the table or did you have one leg come up behind the table and then the other protruding under the table?

 

[trailertrawlerkismet]

Mike:

I sent you a photo of how it looks, would post here but I don't know how. The L bracket attaches to the underside of the table and onto the wooden slate that is against my port side under table wall....nothing shows on the top side of the table and you'd have to be on your hands and knees to see the attached hardware.

Jim

 

[nzfisher]

At the risk of being repetitive for those who have not seen it here is a very simple table stabilizer that requires no groveling. Just buy a slightly longer stainless steel bolt that slides in at the lowest existing hole from the port side ladder mount then mount the plastic hold down that is easily fabricated from scrap starboard. Tension is achieved by pushing the table up against it.

Possible caveats on other boats- Ladder mount locations changed? Table changed? If so possible accommodations might be needed.


gallery2.php?g2_itemId=40245

 

[knotflying]

That works on the R-25, but not the R-27. we have wood panel covering those bolts.