DIY Heater Worked Like A Champ

[abcandjrc]

We got to do a good test of the heater I built for our R21-EC today.

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Temperatures were between 40 and 50 and it did all it needed to do and more. We were able to crack a window for fresh air and still stay at T-shirt temperatures. On "low" most of the time, i.e. one fan running, its mate uncovered. I am sure it can handle any temperatures that we would consider taking the boat out. The limiting factor is primarily that short wade up to my knees on recovery to get the boat started on the forward roller. So far the water is just "brisk" here, but it will probably exceed my limit sometime during the winter and, heater or no, she will stay in the driveway.

 

[Levitation]

Put a hook on the end of a telescoping handle to reach out and catch the bow eye...

 

[abcandjrc]

That would work most of the time if I put the trailer in a bit more, and I may do it if my thermal breaker is tripped some afternoon.

I have two reasons I keep it as shallow as possible. First, it keeps my hitch/activator further from the salt water. Second, I like to get some weight of the bow in the groove on the front roller so the keel stays centered better. My crew uses a boat hook to keep the stern between the side bunks and the roller keeps the bow in place as I winch the boat forward.

I have also considered "walking the tongue" but I think that quite often winds up the same as "walking the plank". I really don't mind getting knee-deep in some pretty cold water as long as I have a towel handy and the heater in the truck has gotten off to a good start. But there are limits to everything.

 

[RProffer]

I got some hip boots to wear when the water is a little too frosty for launching.

Some people suggested unhooking the boat from the trailer, and then when backing down, slam on the brakes and let the boat go sliding off the bunks. That does not sound too safe for me, and I am not that good of a swimmer in the event the boat gets away from us.

 

[Levitation]

Isn't it interesting that an identical task is performed by different methods by different people...
I put the trailer as deep as I can get it without submerging the exhaust pipe...
I run the boat onto the trailer as far up as I can under engine power and then crank it up to the winch post before pulling out...
I have my guide posts/rollers set in as tight as they will go to keep the hull centered while it is floating...
I walk the tongue/wade only if I am forced to - if I am not able to control/hook the bow with the boat hook...
I am considering adding a cat walk to the tongue...
Hip boots are on my to-do list...

 

[abcandjrc]

I used to always retieve "deep" but one day on a ramp we had not used before, a wheel dropped off the edge of the paving. That was not a real problem until that side of the trailer came up "late" and the boat settled on, and broke off, the guiding bunk on that side. Reevaluation......

I also noticed that when launching or retrieving "deep" there was a much greater chance of getting salt water on the truck and hitch. Any wave action or splashing is a real problem. Our 2001 F-150 with 39,000 miles and still looking show-room new is finally being abused.

Most of the bass-boats in this area barely get the trailer wheels wet. They launch by heavy braking and inertia and to retrieve they just point the bow in, fire up 200 hp, and shoot up on the trailer like in a James Bond movie. It works for most of them. 😱

As in all of life, everything has trade-offs.

 

[RProffer]

I back down until the trailer fender tops are just submerged. The boat is just floating enough but stays within the bunks for control. Works for me.