Dropped a Zinc

[hulla]

As has happened to a few others, the zinc on our prop dropped off somewhere. Does anyone know the shaft size of a 2020 R31S with a D4-300 so that I can get the "right sized" zinc to replace the one that fell off?

 

[vertigo]

I believe that is a size "F" -- 1-1/2" shaft.
https://www.boatzincs.com/prop_nut_specs-rep.html

 

[hulla]

I believe that is a size "F" -- 1-1/2" shaft.
https://www.boatzincs.com/prop_nut_specs-rep.html

Thank you so much.

 

[ethanbarnett]

Welcome to the club. I also put a collar on the shaft as plan b.

 

[Automaticman865]

Also put a stainless fender washer at the back end of the zinc before replacing the bolt. You’ll never loose a zinc again.
Stuart

 

[vertigo]

Also put a stainless fender washer at the back end of the zinc before replacing the bolt. You’ll never loose a zinc again.
Stuart

That is pure brilliance, right there!

 

[hulla]

Also put a stainless fender washer at the back end of the zinc before replacing the bolt. You’ll never loose a zinc again.
Stuart

Thank you. I am very new to the boating and Ranger Tug worlds. It seems that this is a known problem with a known solution that might cost 10 cents.

Why do the factory or the dealers not make this fix on new boats?

 

[Haifisch]

When you buy your prop anode from Ranger Tug parts they include a bolt, fender washer and lock washer.

 

[hulla]

When you buy your prop anode from Ranger Tug parts they include a bolt, fender washer and lock washer.

Our boat is only 8 months old and the factory / dealer installed prop zinc fell off. We love everything about the boat and are looking forward to going to Thetis Island this weekend but it was a surprise that the zinc fell off.

 

[Haifisch]

I've had my boat for about 18 months. In my slip (saltwater, Puget Sound) I get about 6 months on the prop zinc. I replaced last month and the zinc was eroded to the point of spinning loosely. When they erode that far, I believe they are spinning themselves off of the shaft. A good waterproof threadlocker helps it to hand on the bolt even when the fitting gets sloppy. I too was surprised how quick they erode, but am getting quite proficient at doing it myself. I can do the work with a mask and snorkel under the swim step. The water here is a bit cold so I use a 7 mm wet suit and gloves. Gives me a chance to scrape the barnacles and mussels off the tabs, rudder and prop as well.

 

[Wee Venture]

The fender washer is a great idea. However, a number of people have lost their prop zinc because the retaining screw/bolt has backed off and dropped off. The fender washer may not do much for this. I am a believer in the fender washer, but also in doing everything possible to secure the retaining bolt. According to the Loctite manufacturer, regular Loctite won’t work if the anode is replaced underwater. (They have products in tape and stick form that they say can be used.)

In a previous thread last November I promised to report back on my experience. This seems like a good place to do that:

Brian B, thanks for the link to the product from boatzincs.com. I have received retaining bolts from them that were coated with a ring of some sort of threadlocker but didn’t know what it was and didn’t know they sold it separately.

...I have heard from a number of people that coating the retaining bolt with a ring of Loctite and letting it dry before taking it underwater is the correct procedure. ...But as we have discovered, that doesn’t work. Thanks [Curt] for the tip on threadlocking tape. I wasn’t aware of that product.

I have switched to aluminum anodes at last replacement and used a bolt from Boat Zincs that was precoated with their threadlocker. I’ll report back in the future about how that has worked out.

John

So, by way of reporting back, I recently had a diver inspect the zincs (i.e.,aluminum anodes). They are at about 50%, ready to be replaced, after a year or so in the water. Two-thirds of that time was in fresh water (Lake Washington) and the rest in salt water. And the prop anode is still there, after about 300 hours of running time and taking us on a four month tour of the inside passage and Southeast Alaska.

I used a bolt from boatzincs.com that was precoated with a ring of their underwater-safe threadlocker. Later realized that I forgot to tell the diver to put the fender washer on but it still held. (I would use the fender washer in the future.) This is just one person’s experience but I am a believer in threadlocker specifically formulated for underwater use.

Here is the link for the threadlocker (from Brian B): https://www.boatzincs.com/vibratite-specs.html

John

 

[SLyle01]

For those with Yamaha OBs...They no longer supply the OEM adjustable-finned prop zincs. They fell off frequently anyways. Yamaha determined that, with hydraulic steering, it wasn't necessary to have a finned-anode at the prop. Now they only supply a domed-zinc that installs at the same place, on the lower prop.-shaft. Need a 12" socket extension.