Dry Rot Cockpit Seating

ethanbarnett

Well-known member
Joined
May 11, 2015
Messages
208
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 S
Vessel Name
LIBERTY
While cleaning up the cushions after 3 months of non-use, readying Liberty for her trip to Marathon from Fort Pierce I noticed some play in the port side fold down seat. Upon further inspection I saw loose screws and bits of what I would guess is non-marine grade wood bits. Took the seat off the hinges for further inspection and it appears that one side is substantially rotted. So anybody have a good upholstery person in the Stuart to Vero Beach corridor to rebuild the seat? Fabric is still perfect. Disappointed that this happened. Surprised the wood rotted within a short 4 years, and these seats are generally tucked away (98% of the time) and covered with a custom cover. After the upholstery is carefully removed I will share my findings. Fingers crossed they can save the upholstery.
 
Please take to whole seat to a canvas shop. NOT an upholstery shop. Canvas shops use stainless steel staples, please insist on SS staples, otherwise rust will result. Also please take the base in so that can be used as a pattern or at least take the opposite seat if they are similar. Use PVC board 3/4" thick. or Starboard. I am not familiar with the length of the seat but 1/2" PVC board may flex and take a permanent bend.

I have just replaced all the flooring in the aft lockers including the generator because of extensive rot. added more water drains/air vents in the flooring. Discovered that the limber holes do not let all the water escape because of the molding of the existing holes and the 1/4 " dam that was created in the molding process. Hence water usually present. Also discovered that the lift handles on the hatches allow water, rain and salt into the lockers because of the lack of sealant around the lift handle and the opening for the hinge pin. Presently figuring out a way to seal this leak. I replaced all the reachable plywood with 3/4" PVC board and went hardcore with 5200 sealant on all edges with fingers and toes crossed that I never have to revisit these areas again. :roll:

My last trip across the Gulf Stream was lumpy and watched the following seas board the swim platform then roar into the aft transom door and shoot through the bottom space in copious quantities to flood the cockpit flooring and hence into the overloaded scuppers (screens removed) and the leaky handle lifts. Also inspecting the foam sealant, some of it was not resting on the water stops, perhaps allowing water to pass through. This is a R27 2011.
 
Unfortunately the use of wood products (Plywood) has proven over the years to be compromised from the elements. The use of plywood in ,stringers, floors, exterior supporting bulkheads, cleat butt blocks, anchoring points, engine beds, swim platforms, and seats has slowly become obsolete. In the 90's the big selling point of many major boat manufactures " we use no wood below the water line, stainless steel or aluminum used for all backing plates, roto cast or starboard used in all seat bases". After the 90's and into the 2000's that selling point went away because most manufactures caught on to this new way of building boats. Better polymer products were introduced into the market and better building techniques. The use of wood products for structural or exterior components is used in a minimal capacity and when it is used it is normally sealed and encapsulated in resin, all four sides to eliminate or greatly reduce the chances of water absorption.

Unfortunately Fluid motion uses wood products in structural components and also decks, seats and backing plates relying on thin Stainless steel fender washers for added backing. The wood is finished with gel coat on one side, raw open wood on the other side in many places. This build is structurally very sound but if it gets wet or sits in a wet environment can be compromised. It is unfortunate that your seat bases are rotted. I would recommend using starboard to replace the wood. It will never rot. I would also recommend as part of preventive maintenance to make sure compartments are dry and any open holes in wood components are sealed. Add some ventilation to storage compartments for air circulation to reduce moisture and mold. Keep all your limbor holes cleared so that water doesn't sit under the floors and the water makes its way to the bilge. Inspect your swim platform, deck fittings and fasteners. I have water dripping at every swim platform mounting surface area and have noticed loose screws. If I tighten them the thin fender washers start to mushroom the wood has no backing because it is soft. I have found 2 engine mount lags loose( I was surprised to see wood still used in the engine bed, I haven't seen that since the 90's. I have a 2016 Cutwater stored 6 months a year in heated storage, I maintain my boat and know every inch of it. I keep finding issues. There are many places that I am impressed by the innovation and ideas put into the build. Unfortunately there are many places that short cuts and quality control issues keep popping up. If I didn't like the boat I would sell it and move on to something else. I'll keep complaining, fixing, repairing, Commiserating with other owners, and enjoy my boat. Good luck in the repair of your seats.
 
What you fellows describe is discouraging. After forty years of sailboat ownership, I recently purchased a Ranger 21 EC. I have long thought lower end power boats, with their pot metal chrome plated deck hardware, were built for glitz and glamour rather than strength and durability. Based on Ranger's relatively high cost, and seaworthy image, I hoped they would be different. Now I am not so sure.

The hinges for the cover over the telescoping swim ladder on my tug are secured by undersized wood screws, threaded into whatever is inside the fiberglass shell. They were all stripped and loose, almost ready to fall out. I replaced the wood screws with through machine screws with backing plates on the bottom. This could have been done at the factory.

I notice with some concern that the engine mounts, which most would agree are a somewhat important part of the boat's systems, are lag screwed to what appear to be blocks of ordinary wood.

It is unfortunate that we, who have paid good money for a product, have to spend time and money to deal with problems stemming from design and materials choices made by the builder. Everything on a boat gets wet sooner or later, often repeatedly. Nothing on a boat - anywhere - should be made of a material that will rot. That is why someone (named Pearson?) started making boats out of fiberglass.
 
As a lurker I don't chime in here very often but I have to say that its the things that I've read on this forum that led me to look at other brands. I ended up with a Rosborough RF-246, not as frilly inside but very seaworthy and durable, no regrets.
 
Pearson has wood too in the stringers, that said they are great boats too!
 
Thanks to all who have replied. Your information and insights are invaluable. As for the Rossi buyer/lurker, you picked an excellent vessel but it is not a Ranger Tug with all of its comforts and character. Cheers all.
 
BB Marine That is quite eye opening. I have been reading this site for quite a few years and never realized there was that much wood in these boats. Guess I just assumed for these size of boats only the dry areas of the boat (interior) would use any wood.
 
Great news. Andrew Custis reached out to me to further discuss our issue and he generously offered to correct any issues with our cockpit seats. Merry Xmas.
 
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